Best compound and Wax for bringing back a 2004 Hull?

Wally World

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Going put some elbow grease into a compound on the hull of my Marlin 300. Have allot of mixed reviews on products out there. Was wondering what you guys have had success with in the past?

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Wally World

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Not much little bit, just has never had a real good wax I believe
 

Legend

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I have had good luck with Colonite fiberglass cleaner and wax on my 2004 and it still looks great.
 

seasick

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If it is not too bad with regard to oxidation, try a polish first and not a compound which is more abrasive also like the Colonite fiberglass cleaner ( not to be confused with the Colonite wax). The cleaner is not very abrasive though and may not be aggressive enough for your hull condition. I also like Buff Magic an interesting product. You need to experiment but the general rule is to start with the least abrasive and change to more aggressive products as needed. For seriously oxidized hulls, wet sanding may be required!
There are many cleaner waxes that both clean the surface and wax it in one application. Personally, I don't use any of those. I prefer to finish up with just a wax product.
There are videos on the web about restoring fiberglass hulls. Look for a few to watch, it also helps kill time:)
 

ScottyCee

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I just got done with a heavy one (no idea if it had ever been done before), and I can recommend 3M rubbing compound as the first stage. I never burned through anything, and with a much lighter grit polish I got a nice sheen. I went over it twice with the compound, as there was vinyl lettering on her hull sides before she got to me.

 
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fsc60

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This Is the Best
Presta 3kg Ultra Cutting Creme
This is a one step compound, you will need a buffer that will go as high as 2200 rpms. You do a small area at a time increasing the speed until about 1800rpms. The heat will start to disapate the compound. Keep buffing until the glass is shiny and no more compound is seen. Follow with Race Glaze. Race Glaze is a polymer not a wax, Wax will only last 6 months but Race Glaze will hold up for 9. Race Glaze is the easiest stuff out there to get off. You can apply to the whole boat, let dry and it will come right off with a towel. All the marinas near me use this method. I have used it for years. Boat always looks great.
 

seasick

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This Is the Best
Presta 3kg Ultra Cutting Creme
This is a one step compound, you will need a buffer that will go as high as 2200 rpms. You do a small area at a time increasing the speed until about 1800rpms. The heat will start to disapate the compound. Keep buffing until the glass is shiny and no more compound is seen. Follow with Race Glaze. Race Glaze is a polymer not a wax, Wax will only last 6 months but Race Glaze will hold up for 9. Race Glaze is the easiest stuff out there to get off. You can apply to the whole boat, let dry and it will come right off with a towel. All the marinas near me use this method. I have used it for years. Boat always looks great.

I also use Presta. I got it from a body shop friend and the label is long gone ( I am not sure it ever had a label) It is good for spot stains, black marks etc. but is isn't very aggressive. I looked it up and it says it removes swirl lines from 1500 grit sanding. So it isn't a rubbing compound by any means
 

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What is the best buffer pads to order for use with the Collinite 920 & 925 plan? This is what I am up against, also a 2004 hull:

20200425_160756.jpg20200425_160734.jpg
 

bac0701

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i just did my 01 with smoove 1000 and colonite wax and was blown away at the two. especially the smoove. i plan on using the pink one in the summer or fall when i need to do it again.
 

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Collinite Cleaner works well for light oxidation and marks.
 

dainlaroche

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The 3M Perfect It gelcoat series works well with a rotary polisher and and wool pad. I had a very oxidized hull and used the heavy cutting compound followed by light compound/wax and I can see my face in it now.
 

fordfisherman

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What is the best buffer pads to order for use with the Collinite 920 & 925 plan? This is what I am up against, also a 2004 hull:

View attachment 12581View attachment 12582
I would use On/Off Hull cleaner for the waterline and below- But follow the directions carefully and cover the trailer. It works great and will remove those stains with ease. It will do damage to the aluminum if contacted FYI.
Topside- 3M Restorer and wax works well if you have oxidation, otherwise you can't go wrong with the Collonite.
 

Sparkdog118

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the first thing I would do is get goof off rust aid stain remover to brighten up the gel cote under the waterline.(https://www.lowes.com/pd/RustAid-1-Gallon-Rust-Remover/4558106) apply it to dry gelcote with a sponge. wear gloves. leave on for 60 seconds and rinse off with water. that takes the stain out and wala your hull is white again. then compound with 3m super duty. compound slow speed. I use aqua buff 2000 which is like buff magic, but cheaper. aqua buff at high speed with polishing pad. then use 3m scotchgard liquid wax. (3m#09062)apply by hand with microfiber application sponge. wipe off with microfiber towel. you can read a newspaper in the reflection of your hull after this process. my gady is 1988 and the shine looks like it did when it was new.
 

imjus4u2nv

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I just got done with a heavy one (no idea if it had ever been done before), and I can recommend 3M rubbing compound as the first stage. I never burned through anything, and with a much lighter grit polish I got a nice sheen. I went over it twice with the compound, as there was vinyl lettering on her hull sides before she got to me.

3m compound, then 3m finesse it of really want to make it shine, the collinite wax.
 

Pat Hurley

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3m compound, then 3m finesse it of really want to make it shine, the collinite wax.
I second that …. their waxes are excellent too. They have varying degrees of wax that is designed for heavily oxidized surfaces to fine finish.
 
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Sparkdog118

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There is a great product made by 3m that cuts the work of the super duty rubbing compound step in half and comes out better at the end. I’ve been using heavy cutting compound 3m #36102. I used to first wet sand the oxidation but now I use this instead of super duty. It costs a little more, but is worth every penny.
 
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