Bilge pump indicator lamp

[Lt.Mike]

The last year and a half have really been tough to get out on the boat but this fall I hope to get more regular use like I used to. One of my local marinas has offered special of $50 for 3 days use of a slip which I’d like to take advantage of.
If I’m gonna slip my boat I’ve got to upgrade my bilge pump from manual to auto with a float switch install.
I’m also considering installing an LED indicator lamp in the dash to get my attention to when it’s running and how long.
Does this seem unnecessary?
It would be installed opposite the horn switch in the panel. Also anyone know of anyone who still sells the round labels (Bilge pump) for the lamp like I have for the horn?

 

[scottstef]

What is the benefit of the lamp? If it’s on a float, the pump will do what it is supposed to. I would put a manual switch on it in the event that you notice a full bilge or float failure, but not sure what a light tellls you that you won’t notice from the sound of the pump. Enjoy your boat!

 

[seasick]

A high water alarm would be better but the optimal is a system that counts how long the pump has run as well as indicates when it is running (audible and or visual). Those systems can be somewhat expensive, The light by itself doesn't add a lot and depending on its type can add to the battery drain should the pump cycle often when you are not using the boat. That is common for boats with 'wet' bilges in heavy rain situations.

If what you said is true, your pump is purely mechanical, a bilge float switch would be the most beneficial and actually a must.

 

[Sdfish]

Agree with seasick. I trailer my boat, but since I spend most time offshore, I went ahead and added a second bilge pump with high water alarm for piece of mind.

 

[DennisG01]

You know what, though? With only being in the slip for 3 days - and of course you're going to be using the boat a lot - it's not like it's going to sit for weeks at a time unattended... I probably wouldn't worry about putting in a float -- although it's strange that the boat doesn't already have that -- although maybe "thoughts" were different 35 years ago Did you physically look for a float (you probably did) or are you just basing in on the switch nomenclature?

That aside, it's certainly not a bad thing to have a float switch. As noted above - I would prefer something that makes a loud sound (piezo buzzers are inexpensive), but you could easily do both. Wire it to a secondary pump where the FLOAT is mounted a few inches higher. The counter is nice for "history".

I would check out Blue Seas for the labels - but I honestly don't know. A local sign shop could make them, though.

 

[Lt.Mike]

This is the pump that the boat came with when I brought it home but its not the fctory installed pump. I was able to clean it up and strip the wires back to make secure dry connections. The pump is an Attwood S500gph model which is smaller than the factory pump which I believe was 800gph.
My owners manual shows that the pump came with a float switch.
I mounted it in the bracket I made that's mounted to the stern. The boat is primarily trailered so I didn't see the urgency for an auto pump then but there's times when I'm running or drift I'll hit the switch to pump out and I either forget it or don't really know how long it actually pumped. If I leave it at a slip even if its only overnight I'd feel better with an auto float switch to run it. But I just looked up the pump to double check the gph and saw something to prompt me to go out to have a better look at the pump. Its an Attwood S500... checking against Attwood's web site confirms its an "automatic" pump and all this time and I thought it was a manual pump.
Damn.
I have no idea how I'd hook up an indicator lamp with it all being internal so I guess I'll just scrap that idea. It should be a simple thing though to wire up that third wire for auto function.
I still want to add a second emergency 3,700 gph pump, wired to the helm switch with a high water alarm as suggested.
It will require a second and larger 1-1/2" hose and discharge port.
If something knocks a hole in the hull I want a fighting chance.

 

[DennisG01]

Yup - whenever you see a pump with three wires, that means it also has an automatic feature... assuming someone hooked up the other brown wire to the battery, of course! Try manually activating the pump to be sure the auto function is working. If it has a float switch (looks like it does) inside the cage, there is usually a knob that you can turn.

 

[scottstef]

if you want the alert light- feed it and your pump to a distribution block. you can feed that distribution bus from from the float switch as well as a manual switch. an example would be the https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...ocphy=1018511&hvtargid=pla-436661250661&psc=1

 

[glacierbaze]

Turn the knob on the end opposite the hose to raise the float, and test the automatic feature. It should come on regardless of your battery switch position.

 

[Lt.Mike]

Turn the knob on the end opposite the hose to raise the float, and test the automatic feature. It should come on regardless of your battery switch position.

Yes I just finished working it.
I’m a little more than embarrassed to say the third automatic wire “was” hooked up and was the way I would do it because I did do it some 6-1/2 years ago. Christ I’m getting old I didn’t remember doing but I’ve done sooooo much on this boat.
Anyway I checked for power thru the fuse, it’s there. Then I filled the bilge over the top of the pump, nothing.
Took a bar and tapped on the pump housing and it kicks on.
So I pulled the fuse and checked for debris, and worked the knob the moves the float, seems free but it doesn’t seem to have much buoyancy. I put it back and let it pump and pull the plug. With it drained it does not shut off. Tap on it and it does. So it’s clear the float is hanging up. Time for a new pump. Maybe I’ll go to the larger 800gph version of the same pump so I can snap the new pump into the old housing making it easier on myself. Is Rule really better? Whatever I put in I want to be able to turn my back on it and trust it to do what it should.
Ok here’s another thing, internal integrated or external Float switch which it better?

 

[SkunkBoat]

If you had an external one you could replace just the broken float switch....or the broken pump...

An indicator does tell you when your float switch is stuck... until the fuse blows..... Also when you are running hard and loud from the canyon and your brand new livewell pump is leaking into the bilge and you see a light on your dash....


I would go bigger...Rule 1500 and a separate float switch

 

[Ky Grady]

LT,,,

I installed a Rule 2000 and a new SureBail float switch in mine. The original was a Attwood 1250 with a SureBail. I have 2 of those Attwood auto pumps like yours, sitting in my basement, brand new. Let me get home this afternoon and check the GPH, thinking they are 1200 or 1250. Can hook you up at a great price, before you go out and buy one.

 

[Hookup1]

My bilge switches have lights in them. When you have enough water in the bilge to pump out or you manually flip the switch the light comes on. Over the years the lights burn out and the switch assemblies are no longer available. I tried differs switches but the LED's are very directional are can't really be seen when running the boat.

I bought small LED's and drilled a hole on the edge of the switch to install the LED. The switch are manually turned on in this photo. You can see one of the switch bulbs are burned out already.



My bilge has very little water in it. I like to know when the pump runs. Always anxious waiting for it to turn off!

 

[seasick]

Are you saying that the light comes on when the bilge pumps in automatic mode? I don't see how that could be.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Are you saying that the light comes on when the bilge pumps in automatic mode? I don't see how that could be.

Those old oval switches did that. they did not have LEDs(they were incandescent) and the way they were wired they lit when the pump motor ran.

I changed all my switches and now I have to do like Hookup and add a separate LED indicator

 

[Byram]

Sorry to derail the thread for a moment .. Ky , tell me how you like your thru hull open - close extension arms ? I could use those on my other boat as Im tired of contorting like a scorpion to reach one

 

[Ky Grady]

Byram,,,, they came on the boat. 2004 228. No other way to get to them once the livewell is in place. You can buy them on Ebay or your dealer and make some L brackets to support them on either side of the bilge.

 

[glacierbaze]

TH marine supplies the hardware for the through hull rods.

 

[Hookup1]

Are you saying that the light comes on when the bilge pumps in automatic mode? I don't see how that could be.

Yes. The old switched and the best replacement I can find (Cole Hersee). They are 3-lug switches - positive, negative, load. When ON the positive connects to the load and the light comes on! The additional wide angle LED is necessary - you can't see the lights in the switches.

 

[seasick]

Yes. The old switched and the best replacement I can find (Cole Hersee). They are 3-lug switches - positive, negative, load. When ON the positive connects to the load and the light comes on! The additional wide angle LED is necessary - you can't see the lights in the switches.

I understand what you are describing but if the switch you are talking about is the helm one manual bilge pump function, it has no knowledge if the automatic feature of the pump is active ( float switch activated)

Also, with those switches, the red light in manual mode may light up but that doesn't mean the pump is running if there is a break in the feed from the switch or there is a bad ground for the pump.