Bilge pump is out

[RussGW270]

Ok, the voltage issue was a seized up bilge pump. Got it out. We got it working intermittently, but we were able to verify it was the cause of the voltage issue.

so, the base it clips into, I assume that is not interchangeable and they probably do not make this exact model so, I think I will take some advice I saw the other day on here and get. Rule 2000gph.

I will go look up installation manuals for that, but if anyone has done this before and has suggestions, I am all ears.

Yes, the trip is cancelled.

No sense wasting the money to sit at the dock.

Thanks for all the help guys.

I.....WE...will eventually have a brand new Grady heh.

Right now, I need advil and vodka.

 

[glacierbaze]

What did you take out? The base should be interchangeable if they still make it.
Pic?
Rule pumps, and many others, come with a brown, brown with white stripe, and black wires. Black is negative, brown is positive to the float switch, brown with white stripe is positive to the switch for manual operation.

 

[RussGW270]

Yea, the float was a bit sketchy too, but if I can locate the exact model, I am okay with swapping the same thing but the attwood 1700 is a lot more than the rule 2000 so, may as well swap it all out. Either way, in for a dime....will swap the float also. Too tired to look back down in the bilge and see what held the pump to the deck, but betting a combination of screws and 5200 heh.

Will be back in there looking tomorrow.

 

[glacierbaze]

Grady glasses wooden blocks into the hull for pumps, etc. Probably 2 screws holding the base down.
Tip: Use smooth bore hose for best results. If re-using old hose, clamp it to the pump loosely, so the pump will turn on the hose, and see where it lands to find mounting spot. Don't mount the pump first, and find out the hose is an inch short.
Use all the wire that comes on the pump, don't cut it short. Bring your connections up to a point that stays dry, secured to the underside of the deck, or a support.

Careful when you order a Rule 2000, it comes in both 12v, and 24v. 1 1/8" discharge, check your Attwood discharge hose size. Rule is not much cheaper, if at all.

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[RussGW270]

Yep, already saw the different voltage ones. The 12v comes in around 109 plus the float at about 34. Hodges may have the best prices.

actually, that attwood 1700 looks different but ifbit fits the brackets...will look closer tomorrow.

 

[RussGW270]

Looks like I need/want to stick with the attwood 1700. It uses a 10amp vs everything else requires a 15amp fuse. Now, not a huge problem, but.....is it worth the extra draw doe 300 more gph? Not sure it is.
Will debate that and look over what is available vs mail order vs reviews. Easy install either way now that I had light to see the screws.

Russ

 

[seasick]

There is a difference between what size fuse is recommended and what the actual operating draw is.
You may read that a 10 amp fuse is called for but that fuse has to handle the inrush current which can be significant;y higher for a short time than the operating draw. The size of the current protection also depends to a point on the type of current protection device. For example a 10 amp breaker will take a lot higher current draw for a longer time than a simple fuse.
The thing to be careful about is that changing a fuse to a higher rating may be ill advised if the wires aren't rated for the current draw. Wires when carrying current get warm. Sometimes they get hot and sometimes they burn.
In cases like replacing a bilge pump, bigger is necessarily better

 

[RussGW270]

All good points and exactly what I was thinking about. While a 2000gph pump may be nice, the safer bet, based on the specs I am reading, is to install the Attwood 1700.

Now, when I decide to redo to wiring, I may look at adding a backup, or possible a larger pump, but I will cross that bridge when I get there. Grady knows their boats and so will follow their lead for this repair.

Thanks for the great input, @seasick

 

[RussGW270]

Hey @seasick took your advice. The wiring is 16ga, so should handle up to 20amps. The draw difference is 5.7 for the Attwood 1700 vs 8.4 on the Rule 2000. They both use the same size pipe fittings, but to get another Attwood, if it would even go into the same base (I doubt they are identical since they do not even look identical)... might as well use the Rule 2000.

Still looking into it as I have to order it no matter which one I go with since none in stock around here, unless I drive to Austin.

So, will need to swap the fuse out, but the wiring should support it.

R

 

[seasick]

The run from the battery to the float switch would have to be 10 feet or less using the 10% drop calcs. . The calculation would be different for a helm located manual switch for the same pump located aft. You also need to insure that the ground conductor for the pump is adequate. It may be common to multiple devices like wash down pr fresh water perhaps. I don't know exactly.

 

[RussGW270]

After looking over the specs, the wiring, etc. I opted to run a new Rule 2000 12v. The distance is under 10ft...like 6.5ft. The wire is 16ga. I got a new breaker to swap it to a 15amp. The switch handles up to 25amp.

The cost was quite a bit lower than an Attwood and I would have had to get a new float and a new base no matter what.

So, for $150 with tax and free shipping, Amazon will have all the parts here tomorrow. I will install it tomorrow night or Monday morning and then haul her to Lake Bastrop to try it all out.

R