Bilge System Modifications

[suzukidave]

Thanks to all for the suggestions and comments. After my experience last month, my boat will not go back off-shore until an additional bilge pump is installed in the aft bilge of my 272. Although it might be belt and suspenders, I am also going to add a separate high water alarm in the boat as well as having an alarm/light in the new pump system.

My thoughts are to add a 2000 gph pump with the float switch only several inches higher that the float switch for the original pump which is now a 2000 gph Rule. At some time in the future, I will add another battery under the live well as suggested by fishbust. This battery will be dedicated to the new pump but will be able to be used as a "utility or spare battery" in addition to the three already in the boat.
For whatever reason, G-W wired the forward pump(1500 gph) to the house battery and the aft pump(now 2000 gph) to the S/B motor start battery, so I will probably wire the pump to the Port starting battery. ?????

Checking the photos supplied by fishbust and RobertH seem to indicate that the new pump is mounted higher that the original pump. Help me understand the logic for this. Seems that in an Oh My Gosh situation, when the lower pump/float switch fails, you would want to pump out as much water as you could(while you attempt to effect repairs). In that case, I would think that the pump should be mounted at about the same height as the existing pump, not 4 or 5 inches above it. I am aware that the pump will shut off whenever the float switch tells it to do so now matter where it is located. What am I missing here??? Or am I just overthinking this? :hmm

your boat won't sink with 4-5 inches in the bilge.

you only want one pump to trigger most of the time to save your battery. especially sitting on a mooring in a steady rainstorm.

the other advantage is that your back up float switch is not going to see a lot of dirty bilge water. my only failed float switch was caused by grease and dirt build up in the float switch hinge from dirty bilgewater. now i clean my bilge every year.

 

[ROBERTH]

X2 what Suzuki Dave said.

Secondary bilge pump and float switch just a few inches above is protected from contamination in case that is a problem for lower primary.

In regards to wiring, My secondary pump it wired to my 2 house batteries that are in parallel whereas the primary is wired to the motor battery, not sure which one they put it on.

I have hooked up the aux. charging wires from the Yamaha motors to the house batteries so they are getting charged when running.

 

[fishbust]

Silverlining, you can mount the pump & switch wherever you want. You are not overthinking it and correct that the lower, the better. Personal preference. Post pics of your installation.

 

[SilverLining]

Really wish I could easily duplicate fishbust's installation, however, the A/C through hull/valve/strainer and the battery charger makes that difficult for now from a space point of view. Will mount the pump only slightly above the primary one and set a new platform for the float switch 2-4" inches higher that the existing one. Separate battery in the live well area later. Should work well if needed. Thanks fishbust for the photos and suggestions.

Someone saying "4-5 inches of water will not sink a boat" truly has a firm grasp of the obvious.

 

[Sea Shift]

This in regards to the 265, but at least mine has three bilge pumps. The aft pump, fore pump and a third in the shower drain should all else fail water building up in the hull will activate that one. So hopefully at least on a 265 you won't need a fourth

 

[ROBERTH]

It would be nice to have a easily removable shelf for sure, but each boat has a different layout and bilge area. I would not be able to utilize a removable shelf easily. Each time I need to replace or repair anything in the bilge, it requires removing the floor panel, breaking the caulking seal and then resealing each time. Even trying to access through the transom access panel, it is too far to reach to the bottom of the bilge. However, I am very thankful I do have an access panel that can be removed and then easy access to everything.

 

[Another Distraction]

If you have a shower sump pump box remove the lid and run with the sump pump breaker left in the on position. It's a small pump but it's a emergency pump set up for sure!

 

[1998sailfish]

All this info on bilge system mods is very informative and I will most likely change out the existing aft pump this winter but here is what I use as part of my emergency self rescue kit when I fish outside of the tow limit. (which off Block island / long Island is 25 miles) :

My Honda 2000 Power inverter, My Honda WX10 light weight gas pump which WILL run at full 2220 gal / hr output for one hour on a qt. of fuel, My Offshore 6 man raft and the usual life self rescue gear ( epirb , personal epirbs, off shore jackets, and quick seal marine wax, etc)

I can only assume that we are all in agreement that this topic of the addition of bilge pumps is in NOT going to save your butt when you are out of quick rescue range.

But a $430 gas pump can help you as well as another boater in distress.

If you don't have the other gear I mentioned..................you don't belong outside the safe recovery distance. :-|

 

[fishbust]

Playing with gas likely in rough seas and obviously on the wrong day when everything is already going wrong is a hazard. I would be one of those not in agreement that additional pumps and batteries would not help. They certainly will and they will do it safely.

 

[1998sailfish]

Playing with gas likely in rough seas and obviously on the wrong day when everything is already going wrong is a hazard. I would be one of those not in agreement that additional pumps and batteries would not help. They certainly will and they will do it safely.

For the sake of not turning a OP's topic into a pi$$ing match similar to what happens on THT, I will simply say that I would suggest that you not have that topic of discussion with a rescue / salvage operator . I will take my gallon of gas ( which will run my pump at full steam for 4 hours over ANY deep cycle cell) as part of my offshore package ANY trip out of quick response range. " Rough conditions ".......... change all deck and transom well hatches to watertite. I'll start my own topic on offshore safety. Sorry OP

Peace & Love

 

[fishbust]

Playing with gas likely in rough seas and obviously on the wrong day when everything is already going wrong is a hazard. I would be one of those not in agreement that additional pumps and batteries would not help. They certainly will and they will do it safely.

For the sake of not turning a OP's topic into a pi$$ing match similar to what happens on THT, I will simply say that I would suggest that you not have that topic of discussion with a rescue / salvage operator . I will take my gallon of gas ( which will run my pump at full steam for 4 hours over ANY deep cycle cell) as part of my offshore package ANY trip out of quick response range. " Rough conditions ".......... change all deck and transom well hatches to watertite. I'll start my own topic on offshore safety. Sorry OP

Peace & Love

Well it was not a good thing to assume and agree for everyone (people can think for themselves) that adding pumps and batteries do not save boats. A ridiculous thing to say, that being able to pump more water and for more time will not save a boat that is taking on water, until help does arrive and assuming everyone agrees with you on that point. No ....... match here! :goodjob

More peace and love for the site. raise