Black/Chrome 228 Rub Rail - best fit or even OEM?

[Mgaul1]

Looking to ditch the blue trim on my 2005 Seafarer 228, but I really like the size (specifically the width) of the current, helps with spray and gives you a nice couple of inches from the dock.

Any recommendations? I am also curious how difficult it is to remove the original? It's in good condition, so the screws should be fine...any major do's/don'ts?

Thanks

 

[Ky Grady]

Reason behind wanting to get rid of it?

The stainless "looks" good on the newer boats, but one time coming in hot or wind shove you into a dock and you put a scratch on it, it's damaged. The original blue is more forgiving and you can bring it back to life if it's faded looking, with a good wipedown with acetone and a coating of 303 Protectant.

 

[seasick]

I wouldn't even consider it since your existing rail is fine. You will be asking for trouble and as Ky mentioned it will get dinged eventually .

 

[Mgaul1]

I really didn’t have much reason aside from looks, I redid basically the entire boat, all accents are black/silver/white...rub rail just looks off but if it’s a major PITA I can think of better ways to spend my time. Even just a solid black one would be ideal (agreed on the stainless not holding up well with the dings), but I would still need to find one that fit as well as the factory blue does.

If it’s not a relatively easy job, prob just not worth it. Thanks

 

[Ky Grady]

Anything aftermarket will never fit as good as original factory stuff will. My '04 accents were Navy Blue/Gold. Stripes, cabin side flags Grady-White logo. You sure yours are black?? Not seen any black accents. I've seen the Green and now the Charcoal Grey and silver stuff along with the Navy Blue.

 

[DennisG01]

It's funny, in my experience, I've found the SS inserts (good ones, not cheap/thin ones) to hold up better than vinyl ones. It doesn't scratch as easy as vinyl... small scratches can be buffed out... if it's a larger goober, then a short (say, 2' for example) section can be cut and replaced where as with the vinyl insert, the whole thing has to be replaced.

It's not a "hard" job - it's actually pretty straight forward. If you go with SS, you just want to take your time to avoid bending/creasing it.

Check out Barbour Plastics.

 

[Fishtales]

I wouldn't change it unless it was required. Just my 2 pennies.

 

[Mgaul1]

Nope, mine is an '05, but I redid the decals, dash, enclosure, etc.

Half gallon of acetone and 303 later the rub rail looks amazing! Thanks for the info.

 

[DogBone]

It's funny, in my experience, I've found the SS inserts (good ones, not cheap/thin ones) to hold up better than vinyl ones. It doesn't scratch as easy as vinyl... small scratches can be buffed out... if it's a larger goober, then a short (say, 2' for example) section can be cut and replaced where as with the vinyl insert, the whole thing has to be replaced.

It's not a "hard" job - it's actually pretty straight forward. If you go with SS, you just want to take your time to avoid bending/creasing it.

Check out Barbour Plastics.

I installed the stainless cavity back rail from Taco (I think that's who made it) over my existing Grady blue insert. It wasn't too hard to install. It took about 4 hours. It looks great and is easy to polish out or repair as Dennis mentioned. I've got one good ding from where wind pushed me into a piling, and it is almost not noticeable.

 

[SmokyMtnGrady]

Clean the rub rail with acetone and then use mop and glo on it . That stuff does wonders to the blue material. it lasts about a half a season for me. 303 is good too like kY mentioned. It's more scientific and stuff than mop n go but mop n glo makes your rub rail shine better than new . love me some mop n glo

 

[ItalianAngler]

It's probably one of these ones from Integrity Marine, that's why my 282 had, I bought black as I've change mine over from all things blue. If my rail weren't put through a wood chipper I'd not have bothered, but there's no amount acetone and 303 to fix what I'm dealing with. I'm not gonna do it either, I'll hire that task out, the material is a pain. I've done plenty on my own to feel good about my efforts, I'd rather crack a cold one and sit on my porch. If you have questions on the rail call them, they are really helpful.

Flexible Rubrails with Stiffeners | Integrity Marine

Experience the perfect blend of flexibility and strength with Flexible Rubrails featuring Stiffeners at Integrity Marine.

www.integritymarinecorp.com

 

[SmokyMtnGrady]

It's probably one of these ones from Integrity Marine, that's why my 282 had, I bought black as I've change mine over from all things blue. If my rail weren't put through a wood chipper I'd not have bothered, but there's no amount acetone and 303 to fix what I'm dealing with. I'm not gonna do it either, I'll hire that task out, the material is a pain. I've done plenty on my own to feel good about my efforts, I'd rather crack a cold one and sit on my porch. If you have questions on the rail call them, they are really helpful.

Flexible Rubrails with Stiffeners | Integrity Marine

Experience the perfect blend of flexibility and strength with Flexible Rubrails featuring Stiffeners at Integrity Marine.

www.integritymarinecorp.com

Acetone doesn't fix nicks and chunks of rubber missing. it removes surface oxidation . Frankly ,it dissolves the material at the surface. buy a gallon of it,soak a rag and wipe..and, when I say wipe it's like back once forth once as the acetone is so volitile it evaporates quickly. out of everything cleaning the boat , wiping the rub rail with acetone is by far the quickest and easiest thing I do. Wiping mop n glo on it brings immediate pleasure to the occipital lobe as it shines so bright . lol.