I've finally got my 228 on a solid concrete pad and protected under a carport. The trailer needs some work so I would like to lift her right where she is to do the work rather than launching somewhere and have to dedicate specific time to get things done; I don't need to remove the trailer, just lift off the bunks. Is there a specific method Grady suggests such as lifting points, methods, etc.? I've never done this so no detail is to minor to mention and don't worry, I won't take a step until everything is planned and safe to do.
Blocking/Lifting a 228G from Trailer
- Thread starter GulfSea
- Start date
There are a number of ways to do this without using machinery. If you don't want to remove the trailer completely, you can build/buy some sort of gantry crane and lift the boat either from the front eye or with strap around the whole boat. Either that or buy a 2 ton or bigger car engine hoist and lift the front up, but I really don't recommend doing it that way.
I think the best thing to do is to buy a cheap bottle jack (harbor freight has 12 ton jacks for like 20$ which I've used on 25' + boats no problem. Buy some blocks and wood. Get some of the boat to hang off the back of the trailer. Block the back corners of the boat tight, then find a spot under the boat you can jack from where you'll be able to pull it out a couple of feet before the crossmembers get in the way.
You're going to have to jack/re set the boat a few times because of the crossmembers on the trailer. You can either set the boat back down on the trailer (making sure the tongue is locked onto your trailer hitch good), or set it back down on blocks and pull the trailer out some more. You'll just have to repeat this a few times until you can get the whole trailer out. It's a lot easier with a roller trailer but it works for both.
I think the best thing to do is to buy a cheap bottle jack (harbor freight has 12 ton jacks for like 20$ which I've used on 25' + boats no problem. Buy some blocks and wood. Get some of the boat to hang off the back of the trailer. Block the back corners of the boat tight, then find a spot under the boat you can jack from where you'll be able to pull it out a couple of feet before the crossmembers get in the way.
You're going to have to jack/re set the boat a few times because of the crossmembers on the trailer. You can either set the boat back down on the trailer (making sure the tongue is locked onto your trailer hitch good), or set it back down on blocks and pull the trailer out some more. You'll just have to repeat this a few times until you can get the whole trailer out. It's a lot easier with a roller trailer but it works for both.
I've used bottle jacks as well, but I might suggest a regular hydraulic floor jack - the kind with (4) wheels and a long handle. These aren't expensive, either (although a little more than a bottle jack) but they are MUCH more stable. The contact point is about 4-times as big and the base is many, many times larger. Now, since you don't need to remove the boat, here's what you do:
-- Loosen the bow strap a few inches
-- Crank the tongue jack all the way UP
-- Place the jack under the keel at the stern of the boat
-- Jack the boat up until the aft end of the boat is a just a few inches off the bunks (rollers?)
-- Now you can physically push (this is ESPECIALLY where a floor jack is better suited) the boat to make it lean one way or the other to facilitate working on one side or the other
-- Once you have the boat leaning the way you want, you can tie a rope from a mid-ship cleat (on the low side of the boat) to the trailer frame. You can also put some blocking between the trailer frame (like a 2x4 with the ends notched) and the high side of the boat. You won't need much - they usually pretty much stay by themselves, but better safe than sorry.
Without a floor jack, or any type of jack:
-- Start with the tongue jack all the way DOWN
-- Use concrete blocks (set in pairs, and alternate their orientation) to build cribbing to get you close to the keel. Finish with one block.
-- Now finish with wood (2x4's and/or 4x4's, etc). Be sure to lay the final piece of wood with the grain perpendicular to the keel
-- Now simply raise the tongue jack till the keel again is a few inches off the trailer
-- Finish the same way as above.
If you want to lift the whole boat off the trailer we can do that, too (w/o removing the trailer). We can do that with just a floor jack, as well. Sometimes you can even do it with just the "tongue jack" method I mentioned above. You'll need somewhere between 11 and 17 blocks, depending on how high your boat sits off the ground while on the trailer. You can estimate by measuring. If you want to do this method, let me know. But it's similar to the second method that is mentioned by Jbrinch.
-- Loosen the bow strap a few inches
-- Crank the tongue jack all the way UP
-- Place the jack under the keel at the stern of the boat
-- Jack the boat up until the aft end of the boat is a just a few inches off the bunks (rollers?)
-- Now you can physically push (this is ESPECIALLY where a floor jack is better suited) the boat to make it lean one way or the other to facilitate working on one side or the other
-- Once you have the boat leaning the way you want, you can tie a rope from a mid-ship cleat (on the low side of the boat) to the trailer frame. You can also put some blocking between the trailer frame (like a 2x4 with the ends notched) and the high side of the boat. You won't need much - they usually pretty much stay by themselves, but better safe than sorry.
Without a floor jack, or any type of jack:
-- Start with the tongue jack all the way DOWN
-- Use concrete blocks (set in pairs, and alternate their orientation) to build cribbing to get you close to the keel. Finish with one block.
-- Now finish with wood (2x4's and/or 4x4's, etc). Be sure to lay the final piece of wood with the grain perpendicular to the keel
-- Now simply raise the tongue jack till the keel again is a few inches off the trailer
-- Finish the same way as above.
If you want to lift the whole boat off the trailer we can do that, too (w/o removing the trailer). We can do that with just a floor jack, as well. Sometimes you can even do it with just the "tongue jack" method I mentioned above. You'll need somewhere between 11 and 17 blocks, depending on how high your boat sits off the ground while on the trailer. You can estimate by measuring. If you want to do this method, let me know. But it's similar to the second method that is mentioned by Jbrinch.
Thanks for the ideas and suggestions! I'll start working on a couple good supports with jacks to get er' up and off the trailer.
If you want to get the trailer completely free (but still beneath the boat), you will only need to setup cribbing (blocks or jack stands if they're big enough) in three spots. The two aft corners and one under the forward keel (just before the keel starts an upward turn). To give you an idea of the time involved, once you've done this a few times it's about a 1/2 to 1 hour job, max. But don't rush it - take your time.
If it's just going to a quick fix thing on the trailer, you could just do the lift and tilt thing I mentioned.
Remember to keep your body parts NOT in between the trailer and the boat whenever possible.
If it's just going to a quick fix thing on the trailer, you could just do the lift and tilt thing I mentioned.
Remember to keep your body parts NOT in between the trailer and the boat whenever possible.
Thanks, I think what I'll do is set up a couple boat stands on the outside positions for balance and build a couple beefy block/cradle supports to jack up two strong points on the keel. I want to be able to work on the trailer where she sits; I've got air, power and all the tools I need right there so maintenance/mods will be enjoyable to do rather than what has been difficult to say the least.
Sure, you can do that - but really, three points (aft corners and forward keel) is PLENTY for your size boat. I've been doing this type of stuff since I was 14 - I'm 41 and work in the marine industry. Either way - good luck and be safe.
Then 3 points it is. If I went with jack stands/pads, are there some you would recommend? The height from the concrete pad is 33" to the outside edges of the boat. The outside flat surface of the hull is directly over the trailer so I won't be able to block there. A jack stand could go through though. I'll get a floor jack for the forward keel jacking point.
Here's what you do... this works with a bunk trailer, but is easier with a roller (as you'll see). Back the boat off the trailer just enough that you can get to that flat area of the aft chine (the flat areas). Maybe a foot. There's two ways:
-- Remove the safety chain, tie a length of rope (about 18") to replace the chain, and loosen the bow strap about 3"-6". Go in reverse and step on the brake. Repeat the loosening and braking until you get it far enough off.
-- Repeat the first part of the above, but then (using your stern eyes) tie off to a tree or another vehicle and then slowly pull away.
If you have a bunk, spray the bunks down with water or even some water mixed with soap and let it soak in between the bunk and hull for a few minutes.
33" is tough. Readily available (at a decent price) jack stands don't go that high. You would need actual boat stands (Browning, for example) and they get expensive - especially for a one time use. Use concrete blocks that you can buy at Home Depot with at least one length of 2x4 at the top where it contacts the boat. If you have automotive jack stands already, then you can combine that with the concrete blocks, BUT... DO NOT set the jack stand directly on the block. Lay a piece of 3/4" ply on it first.
For the bow keel - don't rely on the hydraulic jack. You still need to put something more secure under there.
-- Remove the safety chain, tie a length of rope (about 18") to replace the chain, and loosen the bow strap about 3"-6". Go in reverse and step on the brake. Repeat the loosening and braking until you get it far enough off.
-- Repeat the first part of the above, but then (using your stern eyes) tie off to a tree or another vehicle and then slowly pull away.
If you have a bunk, spray the bunks down with water or even some water mixed with soap and let it soak in between the bunk and hull for a few minutes.
33" is tough. Readily available (at a decent price) jack stands don't go that high. You would need actual boat stands (Browning, for example) and they get expensive - especially for a one time use. Use concrete blocks that you can buy at Home Depot with at least one length of 2x4 at the top where it contacts the boat. If you have automotive jack stands already, then you can combine that with the concrete blocks, BUT... DO NOT set the jack stand directly on the block. Lay a piece of 3/4" ply on it first.
For the bow keel - don't rely on the hydraulic jack. You still need to put something more secure under there.
I've never done it and was looking for ideas. First time having a trailer and would like to get boat high enough so I could paint . Would jacking up the entire trailer with boat on it then blocking boat or placing stands work. After everything is blocked in place can I just lower trailer while boat stays on stands or blocks? Now boat sits high trailer is back on ground and good to go ? I've read elsewhere about spring effect with trailer not sure if I understand or if i'm missing something.
RJ, there's certainly more than one way to skin a cat. But I think that would end up being more work - plus, you likely won't be able to get the blocks in the right spot since the trailer frame will be in the way.