Boat trailer update

[wrxhoon]

Wrxhoon,
All valid points I have to admit that I was not up to speed on the SS sleeves and did some research online. Did you install them to repair worn spindles or are they a preventative device?

I installed them on my new trailer back in 2012, trailer was made in USA to AUS specs, she came with Chinese bearings as well. First thing I did replace bearings , install S/S sleeves, S/S calipers, S/S Rotors, S/S brackets and pads with S/S backing plates.
A few thousand miles later and lots of dunking always in salt water, still the same bearings , seals calipers and rotors ( a bit warn now)and 3 sets of pads.

 

[Holokai]

I installed them on my new trailer back in 2012, trailer was made in USA to AUS specs, she came with Chinese bearings as well. First thing I did replace bearings , install S/S sleeves, S/S calipers, S/S Rotors, S/S brackets and pads with S/S backing plates.
A few thousand miles later and lots of dunking always in salt water, still the same bearings , seals calipers and rotors ( a bit warn now)and 3 sets of pads.

Do you immediately rinse the trailer after launching or do you wait until after retrieving? Do you rinse with fresh water or saltaway (or equivalent)?

Trying to get an idea of what to expect for the braking system longevity on my trailer (SS rotors and brackets but I don’t think complete SS like your setup).

 

[wrxhoon]

I wash the boat at home at night , it takes two people about 75 minutes one washes inside hardtop fish tanks etc.. and I usually wash the exterior, rinse the trailer, brakes etc.. I make sure I run water inside the trailer cross-members and i drilled a 5/16" hole on each cross member in the middle of the bend part so water doesn't stay there they are ally but still I don't want salt in there. I spray some heavy duty truck wash on the wheels, brakes and torsion bar ends. I have made a contraption out of a plunger so I can run the bilge pump and the raw water wash with fresh water. I even put the bung in and whilst rinsing the ally tank water fills the bilge and the aft pump goes on. Its a way of making sure it works once in a while I take off the fuse of the rear bilge pump so water goes to the front pump. Engine cowling off and wash the engine , leave cowling off or take it off the next morning so the sun dries the engine the next day.
Before all that I flush the engine for at least 10 minutes.

It is most important to have S/S calipers than all the rest because they will not seize.
Ideally the trailer should rinsed as soon as you launch and or retrieve the boat but that will eat my fishing time .
After several years (4,5,6) the gal axle will start to shoe rust , some cold gal paint and she is good for another 2-3 years.

 

[Fowl Hooked]

One of my better, but not so sexy, upgrades was converting the surge brake actuator to an electric over hydraulic setup that works with the integrated brake controller in my truck. I too did not like the clunk but it wasn't a real concern and those surge actuators are pretty darn reliable. Purely a personal choice but I'm much happier with how the rig brakes now, or maybe more accurately, how it feels to me as it's braking.

 

[RussGW270]

One of my better, but not so sexy, upgrades was converting the surge brake actuator to an electric over hydraulic setup that works with the integrated brake controller in my truck. I too did not like the clunk but it wasn't a real concern and those surge actuators are pretty darn reliable. Purely a personal choice but I'm much happier with how the rig brakes now, or maybe more accurately, how it feels to me as it's braking.

I heard those do not last due to saltwater... not sure how true that is.. or if they simply wear our as do surge brakes. How long have you had it and any issues?

R

 

[wrxhoon]

I heard those do not last due to saltwater... not sure how true that is.. or if they simply wear our as do surge brakes. How long have you had it and any issues?

R

Russ they are very reliable and very good these days, I bought my first Hydrastar way back 1991 had it on that trailer for 10 years running reliably . Back then they weren't as good as they are today being a bit slow to react now they are much faster . In Australia every boat over 2000 kg ATM must have that . I don't know what truck you drive but most newer ones have similar set up on the brakes but they have an accumulator so they are instant, my last 3 Landcruisers had the that as well as my current Lexus. Rest assured they are good you should have one on your trailer, they are cheap. Dexter have one as well, you need the 1600 PSI.

CARLISLE HYDRASTAR - HBA-16 "1600" PSI BRAKE ACTUATOR | eBay

Hydrastar Brake Actuator - HBA16. Allows actuator to be mounted in places where most actuators would overheat. Improved functionality when compared with surge brake couplers. Built-in bleeder screw lets you easily flush air out of the brake lines.

www.ebay.com

You have to mount it up high so it NEVER goes in the water ( salt or fresh) and when you stop at the lights use the parking brake while you are stopped, this way it will last a lot longer as the pump doesn't work all the time.
All you need is a solid coupling or you can put a big bolt in your current coupling to stop it from moving and you just connect the current brake lines to it, bleed it and you are done . Very easy to bleed using the battery you have there for the break-away system (one man job).
Of course you need a brake controller in your truck as well , easy instructions to wire it up.

 

[RussGW270]

Okay, I am a bit confused. I have to lower my trailer into the water till the fenders are fully submerged so, what part do you install up high and where? Can you take a picture?

I have a 2018 Ford F-150 and it has electronic brake controls so would easily support that, I just did not consider them as I was told “they rust”, so was assuming there was something on the actual wheel that rusted easier.
Russ

 

[DennisG01]

I second what Hoon is saying - those EOH setups are VERY reliable. Once you go EOH, you won't go back. The braking performance is much improved and you have manual control over the brakes, too (I mention this from long time experience with this).

The hydraulic pump/control unit and battery mount up near the tongue of the trailer. The truck sends a signal to the pump/control unit and the pump then sends fluid to the brakes. The only thing in the water, at the wheels, is the same thing that is currently there.

It's not cheap to install it, and while your size boat certainly warrants some thought about this, you can always add this later. I towed a 10,000lb Sea Ray/Shoreland'r trailer for about 8 seasons with regular surge brakes. I kept thinking about adding EOH because I knew the benefits with another trailer that I use, but the Shoreland'r stopped nicely with the regualr surges that I couldn't quite justify it.

I guess my point it... get some time under your belt using the rig the way it is, first. See how it goes.

 

[trapper]

While on the subject, Could you tell me if there are any manufacturers of EOH with disk brakes or are they all drum? Thanks

 

[DennisG01]

While on the subject, Could you tell me if there are any manufacturers of EOH with disk brakes or are they all drum? Thanks

Sure, they're readily available for disc brakes - that shouldn't be hard to find, at all. Titan is the company I have experience with.

 

[Holokai]

You can make a custom mount for the EOH actuator on your winch post. Here’s my friend’s setup for an idea. He launches from a ramp with a pretty nasty surge and the actuator doesn’t get dunked.

 

[wrxhoon]

Okay, I am a bit confused. I have to lower my trailer into the water till the fenders are fully submerged so, what part do you install up high and where? Can you take a picture?

I have a 2018 Ford F-150 and it has electronic brake controls so would easily support that, I just did not consider them as I was told “they rust”, so was assuming there was something on the actual wheel that rusted easier.
Russ

You still put the trailer in the water just the same as others said it is the actuator unit that you don't want to go in the drink, it doesn't matter if it gets wet in the rain or hosing when you clean the boat . It can't be submerged .If you put it on the winch post you should be fine.
If you mean the actual brakes rust as in calipers , rotors etc.. it doesn't make difference what type of actuator you use. they will rust just the same hence my suggestion about an all S/S system.

The actuator I posted above is to suit discs (1600 psi) if you have drums you have to use 1000 psi otherwise you may blow your wheel cylinder seals. You wouldn't want to have drums on anything these days let alone on a trailer that gets submerged in salt water.
If you install EOH actuator you can brake the trailer without applying the truck's brakes that can be very handy on some downhill with high side winds that can induce fishtailing . You gently pull the trailer brakes ( very little not enough to lock them) and the fishtailing stops.
In my opinion they are a must on heavy trailers, I don't know why it is not law in USA, has been here for as as I can remember.
The other good thing about the EOH brakes you can easily change the brake fluid, one men operation . So many advantages and the only disadvantage cost .

 

[trapper]

Thanks guys, I have had only had disk brakes on my 208 trailer. Have changed seized callipers, frozen brake pads, rusty rotors. Seems an ongoing saga in the salt we play in. Use "salt away" after launch and on coming home but still have issues! Although I understand EOH and have had electric brakes on my trailers, it does not change the problem that any brakes species seem to have issues related to the constant dipping in the brine. Yes stainless steel is and option, ouch on the price but..... the callipers are all stainless and the piston still freeze up in the callipers. This is not a snivel it is a fact, and part of enjoying my 45 years of life on the water ,which is worth every rusty part. I do not think EOH is for me, with the expense and just more parts to corrode, I will stay with changing out the rusty bits on discs as they become useless. Maybe, just maybe make 2 cents on the dollar when I take them to the recycle man........????

 

[Fowl Hooked]

I heard those do not last due to saltwater... not sure how true that is.. or if they simply wear our as do surge brakes. How long have you had it and any issues?

R

Upgrade is going on five years now and no issues aside from the stickers peeling from their exposure to the sun. Everything downstream of the actuator is original, disconnected the hydraulic line and reconnected it to the new pump but didn't change out anything else so I will eventually have the same problems as anyone who dunks in saltwater but I greased everything up when the trailer was new and do my best to rinse it down, sometimes even with salt-away, after each trip to the ramp. No issues whatsoever with the actuator controller or the pump itself, mounted everything on an upright and aside from rain or the hose they never get wet.

 

[Holokai]

Another trick that seems to help is to mix a saltaway solution up in a pump sprayer. After launching we spray down the critical areas of the trailer (brakes/leaf springs if applicable/etc). The trailer eventually receives a thorough rinse after retrieving the boat but the quick spray down seems to lessen salt buildup.

 

[wrxhoon]

. Yes stainless steel is and option, ouch on the price but..... the callipers are all stainless and the piston still freeze up in the callipers. This is not a snivel it is a fact, and part of enjoying my 45 years of life on the water ,which is worth every rusty part.

I'm very surprised you say that, I never had a S/S caliper seize in 25 years I used them I always used Kodiaks and I just rinse the brakes when I get home sometimes even the next day but mostly the same day. I wouldn't use anything else as I find them cheaper in the long run and they are three times the price.

 

[trapper]

Thanks wrxhoon, 25 years without a seized caliber piston, wow, I wonder if they are sending the "cheaper version" of kodiak brakes up here to the north. Will have to try and find some one local who has all stainless Kodiaks and see how they rate their performance. Tthe coated ones do not last that long. Even speaking with the dealer here, who has changed brands recently due to Kodiak expense and the CD dive, say they seize with being unused, unwashed, used ....... salt water bathing etc. You make a good point, unless you are a lake fisherman go "Stainless" and hope you have enough money left over for gas! Have you had any issues with the rotors or sticking brakes pads?...... I appear to have had them all!!

 

[wrxhoon]

The quoted 25 years are not on the same trailer, I have used Kodiak full S/S kits on my trailers since early 90's in that time never had a piston seized. Before I started using S/S we had hot dipped gal calipers all the time with steel pistons, they would only last a couple years that's why I said cheaper in the long run to use full S/S . Caldium coated are good for one season maybe 2 in salt water of course they should be fine in fresh water but I'm a blue water fisho , never fish freshwater.
No problem with sticking pads because the run on a smooth surface all the time.
Like I said before cheaper in the long run by far and brakes will work, the only down is the rotors wear out much quicker but then again the steel rotors will rust in no time.
Gas where you are is very cheap we pay almost double the price here so you should have more $$ to spend on proper brakes.

 

[trapper]

Thanks for your explanation! Now about the price of gas. What do you guys pay a litre? We have been all over the map from up to $1.60 ...normally the $1.30s now with this crisis see it around a $1.08 Yes if brakes were the only spending issue in owning a boat I would have more money for brakes. No complaints... been doing this for many years from a 40 ft commercial salmon troller to my loveable 208 Grady. Just purchased a 12' AB Nautilus RIB for easy launching from any ramp where I do not need a dock, when things get a little crowded. They are way too much fun....like snorkelling with a motor.

 

[wrxhoon]

Are you in Canada? I thought you were in USA hence my comment on fuel price. Right now 91 Ron (87 Mon USA) around $1.00 per lt but it can vary from retailer to retailer in the same City/ Suburb. I know fuel price in Canada is similar to ours but much cheaper in USA. I would say it should be bellow $2.00 per US gal in the cheaper states .