Thank you for posting this as I found it extremely informative. I got a quote recently for my 2008 Sailfish that was much higher than I expected and am considering doing something similar with the help of a seamstress friend.
I had a few questions I was hoping you could answer:
1) Did you use the silk film only to help fit in the foam and then remove? I've read and saw on Sailrite that if using open cell foam that is intended to dry out, to not use silk film as it can trap moisture. I would think the grommets and phifertex would allow drainage.
2) Did you use 316 stainless steel grommets? I found 305 stainless on Sailrite and was planning to use that as not in contact with other metals and only on underside.
3) Do you recall how many yards you needed of pleated and flat vinyl? I was thinking at least 9 yard of pleated to not have seams in the longer bolster and 2-3 yds of flat for the aft bench and corners of other bolsters.
4) Do you recall what thread you used? I don't believe there is outside stitching other than potentially in the aft seat so I was planning to use Sailrite's v-92 Polyester Natural UV 4oz and not worry about color so much as not exposed.
5) Did you need to join two pieces of foam for the longer bolster? Sailrite has 80" sections of foam but maybe able to find longer sections contacting them or through other suppliers.
6) Did you screw in bottom of the bolsters back through grommets or use a different mechanism. I've heard there are clips you can use that extend just slightly below bolsters and are not visible when standing but haven't been able to locate.
Thanks in advance.
I also redid my bolsters a while back. They are looking a bit worn these days but were redone 12 years ago and sit all summer in the sun.
I use Dryfast foam and no plastic wrapping.
I used cheap brass grommets and they are still in good shape
I don't remember how much material I used but I probably had enough left over to recover another set of bolsters.
I use polyester V-92 thread. It has held up OK on the bolsters since most of the stitching is hidden from the sun. Similat sewing work on things like helm covers tend to suffer breakdown of the thread over time.
Funny think about joining the foam. I didn't need to join the long section for my 208 bolsters but I did need to glue up rounded corners and make them thicker. The Dryfast foam is so porus that liquid contact cement when applies drains right through and out the bottom. A suitable spray adhesive would have been better.
I bough my foam from the Foam Factory I think it was called. I bought a half sheet ( a full sheet is 48 by 96 inches.) That foam is not cheap
I did screw the bolster on using the grommet holes but drilled new holes. It is extremely hard to reuse the original holes. You don't need a lot of screws, maybe two per long section and one for the curved return if you have returns.
A few recommendation and some advice.
Take apart the original bolsters using a seam ripper for the stitching after you remove the staples ( your hands are going to really ache.
Label all the pieces and use them as patterns for the new material. Same for the original foam. Use it as a guide to cutting, building up, and shaping the new foam.
I used welting in matching color for the outer seams and the corner pieces. It is more work but it does help hide the stitching which makes it last longer.
An electric meat carver works very well to cut and shape the foam. I did trim (shape) the outer edges of the foam so that the vinyl would form a rounder edge.
But Monel staples not stainless. Buy a few boxes, 2 at a minimum maybe more if your work is longer than mine. The vinyl bolster is stapled to the backer board with staples basically next to each other with very little spacing. If you decide to apply welting to the outer edges, staple it on to the backer board after you staple the vinyl cover on. Use a pneumatic stapler. Electric didn't work for me.