SkunkBoat
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Bottom Paint Questions
- Thread starter Blaugrana
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Just thinking this through...
Trying to figure out how to paint the bottom of my boat where it is sitting on the blocks. Every thread and video mention just moving the stands. However, if it is on blocks, will I be able to put a boat stand next to it, spin it enough that it takes the weight off the block? Might be a dumb question but those handles that you turn don't look like they will allow you to lift the boat and I am curious if I will need a jack to move it around.
Trying to figure out how to paint the bottom of my boat where it is sitting on the blocks. Every thread and video mention just moving the stands. However, if it is on blocks, will I be able to put a boat stand next to it, spin it enough that it takes the weight off the block? Might be a dumb question but those handles that you turn don't look like they will allow you to lift the boat and I am curious if I will need a jack to move it around.
SkunkBoat
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It depends on how heavy the boat is. For lighter hells, the stand screws can be turned but for heavier hulls, it may be next to impossible. The best approach is to use a bottle jack and the appropriate blocking (cribbing) to l
lift the keel. It is important to put something between the keel or a stringer area and the top of the bottle jack to distribute the force. A foot or so of iron channel woks well. Put a piece of carpet between the channel and the hull to protect the keel from marring. The trick is to raise a little at a time, and readjusting stands after each mini lift.
Always keep safety in mind, do not climb under the boat when jacking.
Sometimes I use a garage hydraulic style jack. The advantage is that it is more stable and offers a longer lift range. The down side is that the lift is not straight since the arm of the jack moves in an arc so you have to keep an eye out for shifting.
lift the keel. It is important to put something between the keel or a stringer area and the top of the bottle jack to distribute the force. A foot or so of iron channel woks well. Put a piece of carpet between the channel and the hull to protect the keel from marring. The trick is to raise a little at a time, and readjusting stands after each mini lift.
Always keep safety in mind, do not climb under the boat when jacking.
Sometimes I use a garage hydraulic style jack. The advantage is that it is more stable and offers a longer lift range. The down side is that the lift is not straight since the arm of the jack moves in an arc so you have to keep an eye out for shifting.
SkunkBoat
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I'm able to lift my 265 using 4 jackstands and 2 keel blocks. The jack stands are placed under the chines to provide vertical lift.
In this config, I can remove the front or rear pair of stands to paint. I can lift the stern off the keel block to paint there and Then when thats dry I can reset and then raise off the front block to paint. We turn the handles of the jacks together in half turns until the weight is off the wood block.
remember, you only have to raise it enough to remove a wood block and get a roller in there.
In this config, I can remove the front or rear pair of stands to paint. I can lift the stern off the keel block to paint there and Then when thats dry I can reset and then raise off the front block to paint. We turn the handles of the jacks together in half turns until the weight is off the wood block.
remember, you only have to raise it enough to remove a wood block and get a roller in there.
Thanks for all the feedback.
I was thinking of getting just one boat stand and resetting the blocks after I take the weight off. Then do the same on the other side. Probably more of a hassle and a risk as the block would probably now be sitting 4-5ft from the stern vs the stand just a foot or two.
Thought the same with the bottle jack but not sure how comfortable I would be with that on the keel, even with a board displacing the weight. Last year, I lifted the boat and trailer up about an inch to slide a board underneath to make it more level. The jack stand kept poking through the 2x4s.
Do you let the keel fully dry and sit on the stands? Or quickly paint that area and rest it back down?
I was thinking of getting just one boat stand and resetting the blocks after I take the weight off. Then do the same on the other side. Probably more of a hassle and a risk as the block would probably now be sitting 4-5ft from the stern vs the stand just a foot or two.
Thought the same with the bottle jack but not sure how comfortable I would be with that on the keel, even with a board displacing the weight. Last year, I lifted the boat and trailer up about an inch to slide a board underneath to make it more level. The jack stand kept poking through the 2x4s.
Do you let the keel fully dry and sit on the stands? Or quickly paint that area and rest it back down?
SkunkBoat
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I let it dry. My boat is extremely stable on the jack stands. With fore & atft keel blocks it always has 4 or 5 points of contact
Sounds like you have an all block setup. You are not on a trailer anymore?
I would not jack one side at a time and move a stack of blocks...but I suppose it could be done that way.
I do not ever jack up from the keel. That would be tippy.
Get 2 stands to complement the blocks or get 4 stands.
The 4 jack stands are an initial expense but worth it in stability, ability to raise & lower, and ease of use and storage.
scaffoldmart.com has more reasonable prices than West Marine
Sounds like you have an all block setup. You are not on a trailer anymore?
I would not jack one side at a time and move a stack of blocks...but I suppose it could be done that way.
I do not ever jack up from the keel. That would be tippy.
Get 2 stands to complement the blocks or get 4 stands.
The 4 jack stands are an initial expense but worth it in stability, ability to raise & lower, and ease of use and storage.
scaffoldmart.com has more reasonable prices than West Marine
Thanks...I’ll go with two and go from there. I was going to see if West Marine would match defenders pricing but will check out your link
Problem is that I am waiting for them to bring my boat over. Not sure what height I should get...Any recommendations?
Yep, I finally put the trailer up for sale, 1 week after renewing the registration. Marina said putting on blocks is better if I plan to paint so that was the tipping point I needed to finally list it. I don’t have a vehicle that can trailer anyways and rather spend money on the boat than a vehicle I use every day
Problem is that I am waiting for them to bring my boat over. Not sure what height I should get...Any recommendations?
Yep, I finally put the trailer up for sale, 1 week after renewing the registration. Marina said putting on blocks is better if I plan to paint so that was the tipping point I needed to finally list it. I don’t have a vehicle that can trailer anyways and rather spend money on the boat than a vehicle I use every day
SkunkBoat
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Purchased 2 of the MB3 from WM, matching Defender 1st price....
No backing out of painting my boat now!
No backing out of painting my boat now!
A, I saw you were questioning the use of a jack under the keel. Just as a side note, in case you were wondering, you won't do ANY damage, whatsoever. It's only a 22' boat - and that keel is plenty strong. I'd probably use a floor jack just because it's more stable, but the keel will be absolutely fine. Use a piece of 2x and make sure you orient the grain perpendicular to the keel or you might split the 2x.
FYI, cement blocks are a good, cheap alternative to boat stands.
FYI, cement blocks are a good, cheap alternative to boat stands.
Fishtales
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Power wash for sure when she comes out of the water. Good to use an acid cleaner and run it through the power washer as well. You should be able to lightly sand or scotch pad rub and then wash again. The ablative is the way to go. Can't stress enough to talk to folks in your area - especially if on a hook or slipping it. You want the right paint for the area. The Pettit Hydrocoat works well in my area. I can get at least 2 sometimes 3 seasons out of it on a slip.
SkunkBoat
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oh, don't forget 3/4" x2' x4' plywood under each stand and set of blocks....doubled if you are on dirt....
Do yourself a favor, get HD to cut 4' x 8' sheets into 4 pieces on their big plywood saw.....
Do yourself a favor, get HD to cut 4' x 8' sheets into 4 pieces on their big plywood saw.....
Ha! I was just looking at your pic and wondering why! I wasn’t sure if you were one of those people that put a cone in front of their driveway so nobody uses it to turn around in.
Is it to displace the weight??? It’ll be on rocks...
I also called Petit to ask about the Odyssey paint and when I can use. The guy said I can paint now and not drop in until March. He said the temperature was key though, 50-90
Didn't realize they were based out of NJ
Didn't realize they were based out of NJ
The Hydrocoat is the same thing. It can sit through the winter and will still work when launched.( not all bottom pains can do that)
The temp range is important and don't make the mistake of assuming that if the air temp rises to 51, so did the hull temp. If it gets cold overnight, the hull can stay cold for a long time.My advice is to make sure the overnight as well as day temps are above 50.
Also note that many of the paints like Hydrocoat need to be stirred a lot and frequently as they are used. Use a drill and a paint paddle.
The temp range is important and don't make the mistake of assuming that if the air temp rises to 51, so did the hull temp. If it gets cold overnight, the hull can stay cold for a long time.My advice is to make sure the overnight as well as day temps are above 50.
Also note that many of the paints like Hydrocoat need to be stirred a lot and frequently as they are used. Use a drill and a paint paddle.
SkunkBoat
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Very good points. I hope you had them shake it. You are not used to this paint. The copper is heavy and settles out. You have to be sure to stir fully and often. Don't leave the lid off the can for any period of time either.
If you do it this weekend you should be ok to paint in the afternoon on Friday or Saturday
If you do it this weekend you should be ok to paint in the afternoon on Friday or Saturday
Pettit recommends that you you store the paint can upside down for a day or two before use to allow the solids that sank to the bottom to loosen up and mix in.
Then stir using a drill and a paint paddle. It is just about impossible to mix well just using a paint stick.
The instructions also suggest using a second can or bucket. Pour about half of the can into the other one and stir both. Then pour some back into the first can and stir. keep pouring back and forth and stirring. This helps mix up the solids and also reduces splashing the paint from a full can.
Mixing is a chore but take it from me, for Hydrocoat and similar paints, thorough mixing is critical to a good job.
Then stir using a drill and a paint paddle. It is just about impossible to mix well just using a paint stick.
The instructions also suggest using a second can or bucket. Pour about half of the can into the other one and stir both. Then pour some back into the first can and stir. keep pouring back and forth and stirring. This helps mix up the solids and also reduces splashing the paint from a full can.
Mixing is a chore but take it from me, for Hydrocoat and similar paints, thorough mixing is critical to a good job.