Could someone tell this newbie why a 2017 Grady with just under 300 hours would have already been bottom painted? Also, can the bottom paint be removed and the hull put back to original condition?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Bottom paint
- Thread starter Jargon
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It sounds like you are confused as to the purpose of the bottom paint. Bottom paint is more properly termed "anti-fouling" paint. Whether fresh or salt, a boat that sits in the water (as opposed to a trailerable boat) may be bottom painted to avoid growth (obviously worse in salt). Yes, it can be removed, but it is a lengthy and time consuming process... better known as $$$$ if you're paying someone to do it.
Can it be removed? Generally yes but it can be a BIG job. Usually the hull is primed before the anti-fouling paint is applied and if an epoxy barrier coat was used as the first layer, removing it is quite difficult. Either way, removing the bottom paint can and usually will remove some gel coat. That can also be expensive to repair. It's better to leave your hull bottom painted. If you keep the boat in the water, as mentioned, you really have to bottom paint.
In my neck of the woods (north east salt water) everyone who leaves their boat in the water for more than a few days, bottom paints. If you don't leave it in or use a lift or Hydrohoist, you don't have to paint but you do need to power wash the hull regularly.
In my neck of the woods (north east salt water) everyone who leaves their boat in the water for more than a few days, bottom paints. If you don't leave it in or use a lift or Hydrohoist, you don't have to paint but you do need to power wash the hull regularly.
Fishtales
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SkunkBoat
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to add to what has been said... after removal of antifouling (copper) paint and completely remove the epoxy barrier coat, you would need to spray gelcoat to get it to look original.
If you are going to trailer it..
You could have it soda blasted down so all the antifouling is gone and then prime with epoxy and paint it with topside paint like Awlgrip or Awlcraft
Don't even need to match color you could two-tone it...
If you are going to trailer it..
You could have it soda blasted down so all the antifouling is gone and then prime with epoxy and paint it with topside paint like Awlgrip or Awlcraft
Don't even need to match color you could two-tone it...
Ok then, so bottom painting is SOP for those that use a wet slip. I guess I was misled by boat ads that promoted ‘never bottom painted’ as a desired feature of their particular boat. So, that begs another question: is a boat kept on a lift more desirable than one kept in the water?
SkunkBoat
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1. Boats in a slip get used more. They don't get babied like a trailer queen.
2.They are "in the water" all season or in FL all the time. They have the opportunity to absorb more water where you don't want it.
3. Trim rods and motors corrode more.
4. BARNACLES!
5. No bottom paint means that bottom paint can't be hiding something.
6. No bottom paint means the bottom paint can't be too thick or peeling and need to be stripped and repainted.
2.They are "in the water" all season or in FL all the time. They have the opportunity to absorb more water where you don't want it.
3. Trim rods and motors corrode more.
4. BARNACLES!
5. No bottom paint means that bottom paint can't be hiding something.
6. No bottom paint means the bottom paint can't be too thick or peeling and need to be stripped and repainted.
Well, not quite SOP, as boats used in fresh water might not bottom paint, but instead elect to pull out once in a while to clean the growth off.
But to answer your "begs" question... Nope. There is no "one best" criteria to searching for a good used boat. There are many variables. Maintenance history and use history are primary, in my opinion. If you're unfamilar with what to look for, this is where hiring a qualified marine surveyor can be your best course of action to get a quality used boat and to also save some money... Yup - paying somebody can save you money!
wrxhoon
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I keep my boat on a trailer and use it all the time, over 200 hours per year, only fishing not used for anything else. Not used 6 weeks per year when I'm away .
As such I wouldn't buy a boat with anti-fouling because the boat would be kept in the water so she deteriorates much quicker than one kept in a stack under cover or on trailer under cover. The best used boat to buy is one kept undercover and used in freshwater if you can find one . My last Grady came from a lake in GA kept on a lift undercover.
The new one I got a few weeks ago came from Florida ( salt water ) kept on a lift with cover over her .
As such I wouldn't buy a boat with anti-fouling because the boat would be kept in the water so she deteriorates much quicker than one kept in a stack under cover or on trailer under cover. The best used boat to buy is one kept undercover and used in freshwater if you can find one . My last Grady came from a lake in GA kept on a lift undercover.
The new one I got a few weeks ago came from Florida ( salt water ) kept on a lift with cover over her .
Yes, bottom paint can slow a boat a bit especially if it has multiple layers of 'hard' paint ( non-ablative).
There are advantages and disadvantages to painted or non painted":
Painted - more drag, pain layers may build up over time creating more drag and a bumpy surface, scum line less obvious depending a bit on bottom color
Un-painted: less drag as long as hull is clean, some like the clean look, more difficult to hide hull damage and/or repairs.
Prepping and painting is a pain in the butt job and paint and labor can be expensive, so an unpainted bottom is preferred assuming fresh water use, boat lift use or in and out use.
Note that in fresh water, the sacrificial anodes are usually a different material than a boat used in salty water. Some outboards are specified as salt water use or fresh water use. Using a boat rigged for fresh water use in salt water without changing anodes is a disaster waiting to happen. ( That includes anodes in the water chambers of the motors)
There are advantages and disadvantages to painted or non painted":
Painted - more drag, pain layers may build up over time creating more drag and a bumpy surface, scum line less obvious depending a bit on bottom color
Un-painted: less drag as long as hull is clean, some like the clean look, more difficult to hide hull damage and/or repairs.
Prepping and painting is a pain in the butt job and paint and labor can be expensive, so an unpainted bottom is preferred assuming fresh water use, boat lift use or in and out use.
Note that in fresh water, the sacrificial anodes are usually a different material than a boat used in salty water. Some outboards are specified as salt water use or fresh water use. Using a boat rigged for fresh water use in salt water without changing anodes is a disaster waiting to happen. ( That includes anodes in the water chambers of the motors)
So, another stoopid question, I guess I should be looking for a saltwater boat that I’ll be using mostly in brackish Sounds in the Outer Banks? Rarely, if ever, will I navigate the Oregon Inlet to the ocean.
No. Where a boat WAS used, doesn't determine where it CAN be used. Changing anodes is simple and inexpensive, though (it's a regular maintenance item, as well). However, there's as good of a chance as not that the anodes could be aluminum - which can be used in any water. Although it's best to find out from experienced locals as to what anode composition works best in that local water.
Now, you might see some outboards with "Saltwater Series" (or similar) stickers on it. It's fine to be used in fresh water, as well. And if the engine cover doesn't say "saltwater series" on it, it can STILL be safely used in salt water.
Yamaha introduced a line a fresh water motors a few years back. In reading the older brochures, it may be that the differences are performance characteristics related and not necessarily relating to fresh water vs salt water use. I really don't know. My assumption ( and you know what that can mean) was that there were different treatments to internal parts to better deal with salt water corrosion. I don't do any fresh water boating so I don't know a lot about specifics for fresh water options. As you probably have noted, I have been known to be a tad wrong at times
Painting the bottom of a boat on a trailer is one way to prevent slime, thorns, weeds, and other nasty sea creatures from growing underneath your ship. It is never wise to paint the bottom of the boat without removing the old paint, especially if you plan to use vinyl paint over a non-vinyl coat. These paints contain strong solvents that can lift non-vinyl coatings off the boat's surface.
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I will say having had both a boat bottom pained and in a wet slip and one not painted and on a lift, I will never bottom paint a boat again. I understand bottom paint but If I cant put the boat
on a lift I will put it in dry storage before I bottom paint it.
on a lift I will put it in dry storage before I bottom paint it.
Chessie246G
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People desire un painted bottoms due the fact that those boats were either tailered or dry docked, meaning they were exposed to the harsh conditions of sitting in water (especially salt) for extended period of time.
Firsthand experience. removing bottom paint is a huge pain in the a$$. Im 4 weeks, in. Took a solid 3 weeks of scrapping, sanding, scrapping sanding, (every weekend, 3-4 days a week after work) to get it off, another week to repair and fair all the nicks and gouges in the gellcoat to prep for epoxy paint. I should start painting tomorrow or weds if the weather holds out. Also probably code to $300 in PPE and about 100 5 inch sanding discs.
Firsthand experience. removing bottom paint is a huge pain in the a$$. Im 4 weeks, in. Took a solid 3 weeks of scrapping, sanding, scrapping sanding, (every weekend, 3-4 days a week after work) to get it off, another week to repair and fair all the nicks and gouges in the gellcoat to prep for epoxy paint. I should start painting tomorrow or weds if the weather holds out. Also probably code to $300 in PPE and about 100 5 inch sanding discs.