Bought a 2000 Seafarer 228

glacierbaze

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Wife spotted it on the way home from the coast Monday, July 21, I went back and bought it Tuesday. Very clean 2000 model, just on the lot a few hours. I bought it quickly, after cranking it, and running a compression test, because it was a drive, and the bank was closing in an hour. Daughter and SIL were using our place at the coast for a week, so I just parked it in the driveway and left. Got to visit it again Friday and Saturday.
Friday afternoon was clean and inspect day.
Yamaha 225 HPDI. Hours unknown. Clean, cranks easily. Compression 117-118 across the board.
Cabin was full of cushions, canvas, etc. Full set of cushions, don't look like they have been used. Full enclosure, excellent canvas, with all isinglass recently replaced, and a new backdrop.
Got all that out, to see what was underneath. The stbd window was not latched at the back corner, and a long term drip had caused the upholstery on the side cushion to rot along the gusset. I knew there was a porta potti under there, figured it was manual pump and dump, but it has a working macerator set up, with a Y-valve, a pump out in the starboard walk around, and an overboard discharge below the water line.

Took it out in the sound Saturday. Has a pronounced vibration at around 1500 rpms, that goes away above that. Have some other props that I will try this week-end, and hopefully cure the vibration. This is the same hull as my '93
Tournament, with the motor on the transom, but the bracket makes it a different ride, in a good way.
Choppy day, and the tabs weren't working. One was slightly down, so I had a permanent list. No electronics, but the Yamaha gauges said 30mph/4000rpms and 43/5400. Quick to plane, and surprisingly quiet for a 2 stroke.
My first outboard with power steering. Sea Star, tilt wheel, and Edsen knob, which always seemed to be in the way. Not enough seat slide to get away from it.

A few questions.
Tabs don't work. Bennett hydraulic. Power at the fuse block connection, and at the rocker switches. Clean HPU, with fluid, located high and dry under the stbd v-berth. I could only get one hand on the plug, so I didn't have time to test for power there. I have Tabman's troubleshooting guide, for testing everything, just need time. Does anyone have an on/off switch for the tabs on a GW? I had one on my Parker, b/c I powered them from an un-used circuit breaker.
I have 3 open ACC breakers, but none of them power the tabs.

Water fill. Just a spin off cap, with a chain, like the gas fill. I was expecting a connection. Do you just shove a hose in there past the chain, and let it run?

Access to thru hulls and pumps. I figured that one out in about 39 seconds. You hinge the live well at the bottom front, to swing forward, or remove completely, and you have access. How about it, Grady White?
Pumps work, but are probably original. Rule 1100 fore and aft, and Rule 800 live well.
Connection is rusted/corroded off for the seacock handle/ pushrod. My arms are about 2 feet short. I guess that is those "pull the live well, stand on your head", threads that I have seen here? Is there any working room over the rear of the fuel tank, if you pull the deck hatch over it?

I have to replace some old electronics. I saw cables running from the lower box into the starboard gunnel, just inside the plexi door. I didn't trace them from there, but it looked tight. Do you guys run them to the transom under the gunnels, or is there a serviceable rigging tube/tubes.

More to see and do this week-end. Usually gorgeous weather behind a tropical storm.

Anyone have a source for a good cover, that fits under the hard top, not over? I prefer a material like rip stop, that I can cram into a stuff sack, rather than a heavier material, like Sunbrella.
 

Blaugrana

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Nice looking boat!

Regarding the electronics, there is a rigging tube that runs on the starboard side but both of my old transducers run through the gunnel rather than that rigging tube. No clue why but it was not done cleanly and you see the wire dangling at times.

For the water, I had the same thoughts as you as there should be some sort of connector to it because it’s on the side rather than on top. I just sprayed my hose in there to fill it up. Water pressure to washdown is decent.

My tabs are always on. The ACC switches have nothing running to them. Wires are connected but they do nothing on my boat.

For the bilge pumps, do the front one first to see if it will be a simple plug and play. I had gotten feedback that you can leave the base and just snap the pump in. Unfortunately, even though the GPH were identical and the units looked the same, I had to use a new base.
 

Greyduk

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FWIW, my tabs were not working when I got my 226. It ended up being the switch which I replaced and it cured the problem. There is a way to troubleshoot that to determine if the switch is actually bad.
 

leeccoll

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My pumps and float switches are working. What I need access for is to reconnect the rod to open and close the seacock. Probably need to replace the handle.
My congratulations GB!

This might help ya.

24" is what I ordered.

 

Parthery

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Yamaha never made a 225 HPDI with a 25” shaft. I’m guessing you have an OX66. If so, the vibration at 1500 RPM is normal. Those engines idle on 4 of the 6 cylinders and the other 2 don’t start to fire until around 1600-1700 rpm.

I’ve owned 3 of them and they all had a vibration at the top of the “4 cylinders firing” range - or around 14-1500 rpm.
 
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trilogy

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Looks like you can tell in the 6th picture that you have a 2000 Yamaha 225HP Saltwater Series II OX66. That's what my 2000 228 was factory rigged with prior to my repowering in 2017.

Parthery nailed it above regarding the vibration. The 225 and 250 OX-66 have a cylinder/displacement management system where to about 2200 RPM she runs using 4 cylinders and 6 cylinders above about 2200 RPM.

The OX66 is/was considered bulletproof and mine was still running like a top when I finally decided to repower simply for peace of mind (I sold it on The Hull Truth in 48 hours as the South Florida folks love the OX66 due to its simplicity, ease of self repair, and lack of a computer to screw it all up---only weakness is the fuel system see below).

USE RINGFREE and YAMALUBE. You can spend days on the internet arguing about it but mine got a healthy dose of both and ran for 900 hours without any major issues.

Go ahead and have it serviced--make sure your mechanic is Yammy certified and have him change ALL the fuel filters (there are several small ones hidden in the fuel system), clean the VST tank, and replace/clean the O2 sensor ASAP.

I also upgraded to an Edson helm with suicide knob--you're right in that its a tight fit standing up---just make sure the suicide knob isn't lined up with the family jewels when you hit a wake or chop---that's a lesson you learn once.

Congratulations on the new 228---I love mine more than I can express in words and despite being 20 years old, it doesn't look it, and I get unsolicited offers to buy it all the time.

Enjoy....
 
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glacierbaze

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You are correct, it is an OX66. I knew that, but I never had either that, or the HPDI, and the alphabet soup got mixed up in my brain. When we did the compression test last week, I was surprised to find that it was fuel injected. For some reason, I had thought the OX was carbed, and the HPDI was injected.
Glad to hear the explanation for the 1500rpm vibration, and the good reputation for the motor, in general.
 

UCPA111

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Congratulations! Hope you have many years of fun with it. I find the seafarer to be one heck of a 22' boat. Mine is a bit older...1984. Most expensive $2800 I've ever spent (lol...the purchase price was the cheap part)...but the memories I'm making with my grandfather, dad, and son are awesome.
 

glacierbaze

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Some things I found out this week:
Pulled the live well to check pumps, etc. Blue float switch, SureBail IIRC, was bad. The wires were like spaghetti, easily stretched, and pulled apart with no effort.

Through hull rod not functioning. The rod is good, but the end connection was disintegrated, steel I guess. Leeccoll gave me a link above, but if I could find an end yoke, or clevis yoke, to fit, that's all it needs. Any ideas on what kind of parts house would carry those? I can order online, but may not have it by the week-end. Have to double check rod diameter, and thread size tomorrow. Looks like 5/16 X 24.

While I was in there, I installed a new transducer, a fuel flow sensor, and a NEMA 2000 network, and ran everything to the helm.

I only have one through hull on this 2000 model, and it feeds the live well. The wash down is freshwater. Is the tank and pump under the port helm seat, or under the forward deck hatch?
I left my bag with owner's manual at the coast, and the downloadable one on the GW site is more of a brochure than a service manual.

I have one fuel tank. Manual says something like 114 gallons, tank sticker says 92. Could have been replaced, but I believe it is original. Would I rather have less capacity in a newer tank, or more in an original tank?
 

leeccoll

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Leeccoll is your buddy Lee ;)

The main tank is 92 gallons, maybe the manual was including the aux tank, but that doesn't jive either.

Good to see you aggressively working on her!

Lee
 

wrxhoon

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Nice looking Seafarer you got there . She is the same as my old boat besides the hardtop, mine had a vista top, the main reason I replaced her with another 228 with hardtop.
Your tank is factory standard 92 gl, they came with optional auxiliary tank around the 50 gal. In your boat the 10 gal fresh water tank is just forward of the gas tank and you have empty space further forward . If you take the plate off, the one next to your water filler you should be able to see the pump for the fresh water . In the newer boats the 10 g freshwater tank is at the rear of the gas tank the gas tank is 125 gal. The latest 228's have the 114 gal gas tank, not sure when they went from 125 to 114, mine is 2013 and has 125 Gal.
If you want to install raw water you will find a thread on how to do it with one pick up, you just need a livewell pump with an extra port for your raw water . A pressure pump and plumbing, a bit of work and few $$$ but not hard to do .
 

Blaugrana

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All of the above is accurate regarding the freshwater tank and fuel tank size. I also have a 2000 228.

How come you installed the NMEA network? Has your boat been repowered? Maybe my thinking is wrong, but I was thinking of doing that once I repower and get new gauges. Plan is to get a new GPS/ fishfinder and VHF this year but not sure what else I could connect them to as my boat has original electronics.

Also, if you need me to take any pics of how things are on my boat, I’d be happy to do so. I assume my boat is all original as it was mostly on freshwater and left in storage in its later years. I got a lot of updates to make but at least I know I won’t have to solve any mysteries about how things were done post Grady.
 

Parthery

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Back in 2000, the standard tank size was 92 gallons. There was an optional 56 gallon second tank available.

With the advent of more efficient 4 stroke power, GW made the main tank bigger and eliminated the secondary tank option. Cruising range is the same or better (on paper anyway).
 
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glacierbaze

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Thanks, Buddy :)

The network is for my fuel flow sensor, that displays on my Lowrance. My Garmin is also capable, as will be any future VHF upgrades, or other electronics. Much easier to plug and play, and have everything communicate on the network, than to match up all those little wires.
While the live well is out, I saw the perfect spot for the sensor, where the fuel line runs vertically up the transom knee. I already had several pull cords in the chase, where I had removed a couple of old transducers, so it only took a few minutes to run the network.
I will probably also mount the dual bank battery charger up high on the transom, behind the well.
I wasn't paying close attention to the through hull, yet, but I doubt it has a proper flange between it and the ball valve, so the threads don't really match. Will add that when I fix the open/close rod connection.
 
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