Bow Tie Down for 232 W/single F250 on trailer

[Clark.N]

I currently have only a bow safety chain on my EZ Loader trailer. What options do I have (Chain and turnbuckle, Strap} what works and what size do you use?

 

[Greyduk]

Obviously there are any number of ways to go about this. I like to use a 2" ratchet strap run under the trailer tongue frame. and up to the bow eye. I have used a chain and turn buckle and that works fine also, but I read something a few years ago that made sense to me. If you use the chain and turnbuckle there is no slack in the connection and the weakest link is the bow eye. And some people said that they had damage to it transferring all the shock to the eye. With the strap there is a less rigid connection and is less likely to put all the strain on the bow eye, but will still keep the nose firmly snugged to the bow roller.

 

[Ky Grady]

I have a Rod Saver ratchet strap mounted on the eye at the base of my winch stand. It helps pull it down tight and keeps the bounce/flex from the trailer in check. Keeps it snug against the bow roller too. You can see it behind the winch stand. Sorry I don't have a better pic.

 

[DennisG01]

When you say "only a safety chain", I assume you mean in addition to the winch strap (or cable). If you properly pull the boat tight against the bow roller, then the bow eye should be tucked under the bow roller... which keeps the bow of the boat from bouncing.

I subsrcibe to a different school of thought regarding trailer flex. I think it is GOOD that we let it flex. Flex keeps things from breaking. If the boat is tied down so tightly that the flex is eliminated, then that means the energy that would have been absorbed by flexing is transmitted into other parts of the trailer AND also, now transmitted into the boat. Energy has to go somewhere. This isn't really apples to apples, but if you think about skyscaper buildings... initially they were built very rigid and they would end up breaking apart because they didn't flex with the wind. Now, they are built to sway in the wind - often a few feet or more. 'Nother example... large brdiges like the Golden Gate.

Now, I'm certainly not saying there's as much engineering going into a trailer as a skyscraper or a bridge! But "going with the flow" is a good thing. Trying to fight nature is a losing battle.

On the flip side, it can't hurt to have another attachment point as a backup. In this case, I'd recommend using a ratchet strap from the bow eye forward to the winch stand - or at the least, to the base of the winch stand. The bow eye being underneath the bow roller will stop the boat from bouncing - we just need to keep the boat snugged up.

All that said, I am NOT an engineer so don't take this for gospel. But at least give it a good thinking before dismissing it.

 

[Ky Grady]

To each their own on trailer flex theory I guess. The truck suspension and the torsion axles of the trailer will absorb your movement. I winch tight, but on the roads I drive to and from Florida and South Carolina from Kentucky, especially bridge ends, without the extra strap, I see entirely to much bounce for my liking. It's hard on the winch strap and post and the bow roller catching all that movement.

 

[DennisG01]

To each their own on trailer flex theory I guess. The truck suspension and the torsion axles of the trailer will absorb your movement. I winch tight, but on the roads I drive to and from Florida and South Carolina from Kentucky, especially bridge ends, without the extra strap, I see entirely to much bounce for my liking. It's hard on the winch strap and post and the bow roller catching all that movement.

To each their own... agree. Like you, I've been in this business for a long time - and have yet to see a trailer failure due to metal fatigue. However, in the spirit of honesty, I have yet to see a failure due to strapping the bow eye down tight to the trailer, either. In reality, we're probably talking about one of us being "right" by a margin of 1%. Which, in the real world, equates to a very insignificant difference - so much so that it makes no difference.

 

[Ky Grady]

To each their own... agree. Like you, I've been in this business for a long time - and have yet to see a trailer failure due to metal fatigue. However, in the spirit of honesty, I have yet to see a failure due to strapping the bow eye down tight to the trailer, either. In reality, we're probably talking about one of us being "right" by a margin of 1%. Which, in the real world, equates to a very insignificant difference - so much so that it makes no difference.

Very true! You and I agree on a lot and have seen a lot. Sorry, didn't mean to sound like a Farmers Insurance add there.

I guess I was answering the OP with my own personal opinion and how my trailer is set up. I do see too much bounce for my liking and feel that it is harder on the trailer and boat than using the tiedown eye that is part of the trailer which is located right in front of the winch stand, and a ratchet strap tiedown.

I think it boils down to personal preference as to what he uses to secure the bow other than just the winch strap. Back in my small boat days, there was a hook and chain attached behind the winch and hooked into the bow eye as a second attachment point incase of winch or strap failure, he could always go that route. But from the looks of his original post, he is already using a safety chain. For the two options he asked about, chain and turnbuckle or strap, my vote goes for the strap. With the strap, there should be some give to it versus a rigid chain and turnbuckle setup.

 

[seasick]

Dang,
Your garage looks bigger then my house

 

[Ky Grady]

Dang,
Your garage looks bigger then my house

LOL, I wish that was my garage. I had it in the shop where I worked getting ready to pull the injectors out and send them out for a cleaning.

 

[Clark.N]

Your ideas are inline with mine. Just info, I do have the hook and chain which I always use. I didn't like the extra bounce of the bow in the rear view mirror. It just made me uncomfortable and my elect. winch mfg. and many of you say not to depend on the winch clutch to hold the bow tight. I liked the strap idea and found a 2" on sale at Home Depot for Black Friday. Although way to long I can cut it shorter because the price was right.

 

[DennisG01]

Oh, you're talking about the bow bouncing around? As in... boucning separately from the trailer? That sounds more like you're simply not getting the boat fully onto the trailer. The bow should snugged tightly against the bow roller which should then mean that the bow eye is also tucked tightly underneath the bow roller. As designed, THAT will keep the bow from bouncing. You can certainly still use something else - but make sure the bow eye is under the roller.

Do you have a roller or bunk trailer?

 

[SeanC]

On my 228 I have 2 x s/s Boat Buckle bow tie-down straps and a pair of s/s Boat Buckle transom tie-downs. Permanently bolted to the trailer and retractable. 3000lb breaking strength bow and transom. So convenient. 30 seconds at most to tie the boat down.

 

[SeanC]

Re: metal fatigue. An engineer once told me that ferrous metals can flex to a certain point indefinitely without creating metal fatigue. Any flex in aluminium will eventually lead to fatigue. It may take a long time but it will happen. So minimising flex in aluminium trailer would be more important than a steel trailer. If what the engineer said is correct of course.

 

[Clark.N]

Oh, you're talking about the bow bouncing around? As in... boucning separately from the trailer? That sounds more like you're simply not getting the boat fully onto the trailer. The bow should snugged tightly against the bow roller which should then mean that the bow eye is also tucked tightly underneath the bow roller. As designed, THAT will keep the bow from bouncing. You can certainly still use something else - but make sure the bow eye is under the roller.

Do you have a roller or bunk trailer?

Bunk