Need advice on how to reburbish a bracket on a 93, 252g grady with twin 200 johnson 2strokes on , Bracket has blistering/bubbling with what appears to be water under the bubbles of paint.Boat stays in water yr. round. Pulled inspection plate NO MOISTURE inside bracket yet. THANKS
Bracket help!
- Thread starter smokey411
- Start date
Sounds like it needs to have all the paint blasted off, then have the bracket itself prepped and powder coated or repainted. There is not way to just repair that section and have it last. To properly do that, the engines would need to be taken off and then put back on so that the complete bracket is redone.
Yea, you have to pull the bracket off and blast it to see the damage. You may want to look into a new bracket.
Depending on what your budget is, and just how far you want a restoration, ie. equal to new?
When it was new, it was powdercoated, an electrostatic process generally not done by DIYers.
Are you a DIYer?
As an cost effective alternative for DIYers, use scrappers and sandpaper to get down to good powdercoat or metal, then use the Interlux products for painting aluminum, look in their handy guide. If you find any pits in the metal, you have galvanic corrosion, be sure the anode is properly installed and maintained.
For bottom paint, use only Trilux or equal. Brush or roller Trilux right onto the hull, use regular bottom paint from there on. Don't get any regular bottom paint on the drive unless it is so stated for use on aluminum. For the topside you can use a regular engine/outdrive spray paint, I found a hull color match from TEMPO.
You can leave the engines on when you do this. No need to be concerned with contact points between engine and drive.
When it was new, it was powdercoated, an electrostatic process generally not done by DIYers.
Are you a DIYer?
As an cost effective alternative for DIYers, use scrappers and sandpaper to get down to good powdercoat or metal, then use the Interlux products for painting aluminum, look in their handy guide. If you find any pits in the metal, you have galvanic corrosion, be sure the anode is properly installed and maintained.
For bottom paint, use only Trilux or equal. Brush or roller Trilux right onto the hull, use regular bottom paint from there on. Don't get any regular bottom paint on the drive unless it is so stated for use on aluminum. For the topside you can use a regular engine/outdrive spray paint, I found a hull color match from TEMPO.
You can leave the engines on when you do this. No need to be concerned with contact points between engine and drive.
If you leave the engines on and do not remove them and do the whole bracket, you leave vulnerable spots ion the bracket that were not redone, chances are there may be some rust or chips where the bracket and engines meet up, you can do without removing them, but to do it right and ensure it will last and not need to be done in a short period of time, the whole bracket should be redone, not just part of it. You only need small chips or exposed metal for galvanic action to occur, it would be pointless to do all that work and possibly leave some of those spots vulnerable, you would only be slowing down the problem, not getting rid of it.
The almag metal is self protecting thanks to aluminum oxide. The oxide builds up and no more. May not look nice though.
It's not visible in those places
Lower unit skegs loose paint easily in sand and never need repainting, Made of almag too along with the rest of the motor.
The engine bracket faces are ridged to grip glass, will cut into the drive even after its painted anyway, better to have metal to metal contact too. The sacrifical anodes on drive and engines will help eachother and drive and engines will have no voltage potential between them.
In terms of galvanic corrosion, it has to be stopped by other means, coatings don't work. Galvanic current will destroy aluminum readily.
Disconnecting the engines, taking them off, remounting, and reconnecting will cost more than the bracket coating, just to coat areas not visible.
It's not visible in those places
Lower unit skegs loose paint easily in sand and never need repainting, Made of almag too along with the rest of the motor.
The engine bracket faces are ridged to grip glass, will cut into the drive even after its painted anyway, better to have metal to metal contact too. The sacrifical anodes on drive and engines will help eachother and drive and engines will have no voltage potential between them.
In terms of galvanic corrosion, it has to be stopped by other means, coatings don't work. Galvanic current will destroy aluminum readily.
Disconnecting the engines, taking them off, remounting, and reconnecting will cost more than the bracket coating, just to coat areas not visible.
Yes! I believe regular bootom paint was used on bracket
You could be right regular bottom paint probable was applied to the bracket at the marina.
You could be right regular bottom paint probable was applied to the bracket at the marina.
Re: Yes! I believe regular bootom paint was used on bracket
Mine did that to me befor I knew what could happen. In theory if the paint on the bracket is intact, the copper(?) in the bottom paint cannot attack the aluminum. Any little scratch and you have galvanic reaction.
smokey411 said:You could be right regular bottom paint probable was applied to the bracket at the marina.
Mine did that to me befor I knew what could happen. In theory if the paint on the bracket is intact, the copper(?) in the bottom paint cannot attack the aluminum. Any little scratch and you have galvanic reaction.
i just finished sanding,paint stripping,wire wheeling,and a few other bad words to mine,i called interlux paints if your boat stays in water they said use interlux 33 and use the recommended primer.it has les copper content and is made for aluminum.