Brass Drain Install

[Andrew93]

The brass drains on my 272 Sailfish were looking suspect. After some reading here I decided to give it a try. One was damp but still solid. I coated the hole with 5200 and the tube. 1/4" extra was perfect for a nice flange. I bought 3" tubes and 3 7/8". The 3" was just too short for my boat, so I cut down the longer ones with a pipe cutter.

I am glad I tackled the project, these are worth checking and not being afraid of doing yourself. It's almost a shame the outside got covered up with the rubber flap!

 

[Willy-C]

I did the same for my scupper drains and splashwell drains. It's a good feeling when they look new again

 

[Tucker]

Same here. I wish I would have checked ebay before buying the flaring tool new. I got rid of the Grady flap and got a generic that fit right up.

 

[DennisG01]

Nice job!

I went a slightly different route with my garboard drain. To be honest, I was surprised that a 24' fiberglass boat still used a rubber stopper for the garboard drain. But I suppose the thought process in building was a little different in 1982. I removed the brass tube, drilled-out the hole slightly oversize, then filled it completely back in with strengthened epoxy, along with fiberglass mat on the inside and outside. Then I redrilled the proper sized hole for a bronze garboard drain and sealed/installed that. With the hole entirely epoxied, there is zero chance of water intrusion. I felt this was a more permanent solution for the garboard drain, at least for me.

 

[Tucker]

Mine came with the bronze flared drains and I did exactly like the OP and had to buy the long ones and cut them down. They corrode right at the flare and if they weren't caulked in good you have the chance of water in the wood. Actually I was thinking the plastic drains would be better if they didn't crack.

 

[DennisG01]

Mine came with the bronze flared drains and I did exactly like the OP and had to buy the long ones and cut them down. They corrode right at the flare and if they weren't caulked in good you have the chance of water in the wood. Actually I was thinking the plastic drains would be better if they didn't crack.

FYI, anything that is below the waterline (if this is the one you're talking about), MUST be bronze or Marelon. SS is not allowed, either. Above the waterline, it could be anything. I don't think I've ever seen Marelon drain tubes, but that would solve both the corrosion and the plastic cracking issue that you brought up.

 

[Tucker]

Engine well garboard drains are above the waterline.

 

[DennisG01]

Engine well garboard drains are above the waterline.

Hopefully...

But, technically, "garboard" refers to the lowest section of the keel. The ones you guys are talking about are not "garboard" drains. I was referring to my garboard drain since mine (from '82) was a brass drain tube, and just to show a different way to deal with that one.

 

[nerd]

How hard was it to remove the old drains? I'm looking at doing this after the season, not looking forward to pulling drains that have been there for 25 years.

 

[DennisG01]

How hard was it to remove the old drains? I'm looking at doing this after the season, not looking forward to pulling drains that have been there for 25 years.

The longer they've been there probably makes it easier and easier.

For me, it was pretty easy. I just used a large twist bit the same size as the drain. Brass is soft.

 

[nerd]

How hard was it to remove the old drains? I'm looking at doing this after the season, not looking forward to pulling drains that have been there for 25 years.

The longer they've been there probably makes it easier and easier.

For me, it was pretty easy. I just used a large twist bit the same size as the drain. Brass is soft.

Didn't have to do anything to the flanged end first, just insert the bit and have it chew it up?

 

[DennisG01]

Go slow, but yes, just drill through and don't worry about the outer flange. Once you drill through, if it doesn't just pop off by itself, you can pull it off.

 

[Andrew93]

How hard was it to remove the old drains? I'm looking at doing this after the season, not looking forward to pulling drains that have been there for 25 years.

The longer they've been there probably makes it easier and easier.

For me, it was pretty easy. I just used a large twist bit the same size as the drain. Brass is soft.

Didn't have to do anything to the flanged end first, just insert the bit and have it chew it up?

I used and hammer with an old chisel and screwdriver and folded the drain in on itself and worked my way around it and pushed it through to the inside. It was real easy.

That would be an expensive bit if you don't have one that big kicking around, although I am sure it would work good. The tube that was slightly compromised pushed out with ease in almost 1 whole piece. The other side I had to fold in on itself about halfway through and then it popped right out.

 

[DennisG01]

I used and hammer with an old chisel and screwdriver and folded the drain in on itself and worked my way around it and pushed it through to the inside. It was real easy.

That would be an expensive bit if you don't have one that big kicking around, although I am sure it would work good. The tube that was slightly compromised pushed out with ease in almost 1 whole piece. The other side I had to fold in on itself about halfway through and then it popped right out.

That's roughly how it went for me, too. I didn't have to drill through the whole thing and it started to pop/push out. Obviously, after X-number of years, these should probably be removed and resealed... before it get's to the point that they are easy to remove. What's that term that we are supposed to follow? Oh yea, "preventative" maintenance. :mrgreen:

 

[Fishtales]

I agree on the PM comment. A little of that goes a long way with boats. Thanks for the posts, shows how easy it is.....