broken thru hull

[dogdoc]

Noticed the mushroom outside of livewell drain thru hull had broken off. Remainder of plastic was sitting in the hole. Was able to get hose and both fittings (thru hull and livewell drain) out with some difficulty. Pretty much blind one handed as thru hull is behind battery tray and just at arm length. Thinking of downsizing hose and pre assemble thru hull to hose and then push thru from the outside. I should be able to get the backer nut of the thru hull on and tight, but not sure I can get a hose clamp thru from the outside without really enlarging the hole. Any options other than a clamp?

 

[Jimsalv]

Noticed the mushroom outside of livewell drain thru hull had broken off. Remainder of plastic was sitting in the hole. Was able to get hose and both fittings (thru hull and livewell drain) out with some difficulty. Pretty much blind one handed as thru hull is behind battery tray and just at arm length. Thinking of downsizing hose and pre assemble thru hull to hose and then push thru from the outside. I should be able to get the backer nut of the thru hull on and tight, but not sure I can get a hose clamp thru from the outside without really enlarging the hole. Any options other than a clamp?

Join the club. Bad news is if one broke and the others are same age, you should replace all fittings and hoses. DO NOT downsize hose or anything else, DO NOT enlarge the hole in the hull. Install the thru hull and bed with 4200. Some people will argue 5200. The best hint I can give you is when installing the new hose, heat it up using a heat gun. Get it pretty warm, but not to the point of melting it. You will be amazed at how easily the hose slides over the fitting. Make sure to put the clamp loosely over the hose, and have a small socket wrench ready to tighten clamp the tightest. Have fun with the job.

Noticed the mushroom outside of livewell drain thru hull had broken off. Remainder of plastic was sitting in the hole. Was able to get hose and both fittings (thru hull and livewell drain) out with some difficulty. Pretty much blind one handed as thru hull is behind battery tray and just at arm length. Thinking of downsizing hose and pre assemble thru hull to hose and then push thru from the outside. I should be able to get the backer nut of the thru hull on and tight, but not sure I can get a hose clamp thru from the outside without really enlarging the hole. Any options other than a clamp?

 

[DennisG01]

Definitely look at your other thru-hulls. The UV deteriorates the plastic. Consider SS or, even better, bronze. And definitely don't use 5200. You only need a good sealant here - not an adhesive. So, really, 4200 isn't even needed. LifeSeal would be great... but truthfully, even a regular silicone would work just fine. My choice, though, would be butyl rubber tape - that's the best product for this application.

Jim outlined the steps.

Yes, there really isn't magic to putting the clamp back on. Being a boat mechanic means getting comfortable working blind with one hand. Unless you have something you can remove... or you could cut an access hole and replace with a pie plate.

 

[TikiCharterFishing]

Below or at waterline use 5200 and two hose clamps. If it’s down near the cockpit drains then it is considered below the waterline.

As noted above do not do any unusual things when dealing with thru-hulls and hoses that can sink your boat.

 

[DennisG01]

Below or at waterline use 5200 and two hose clamps. If it’s down near the cockpit drains then it is considered below the waterline.

As noted above do not do any unusual things when dealing with thru-hulls and hoses that can sink your boat.

Why use expensive super glue when, considering this is a mechanical connection, all that is needed is a sealant? 5200 doesn't "seal" better.

It's not "bad" to use 5200 - it's just overkill and not needed - especially when other products work just as well. As I noted above, this is the perfect application for butyl rubber.

100% agree with your last sentence.

 

[dogdoc]

Finished the hose and thru hull. Used 4200 clone and one clamp, that part is fine. Cannot seem to find a compatible drain for the live well (original broke apart during removal). What was there seems to be similar to a bar sink drain, standard plumbing fitting. I'll find something to connect to the 1in hose. Was going to post a pic of my left arm, but I am sure the cuts and bruises would be ho hum to most. It is one thing to put things in places nearly impossible to get at, but do they have to put tons of sharp stuff along the way.

 

[SkunkBoat]

I would argue for 5200 on thru hulls (below or near the waterline) because you DO need adhesive. Often the inner hull surface is not flat and the thru hull nut does not come tight. Sometimes tightening the nut can tilt the thru hull in the opening (ASK ME HOW I KNOW).
By using 5200, the nut holds the fitting in position while the 5200 cures and then it NEVER moves or leaks for 20+ years.
I would call 20 years " permanent".

Now someone will say "but you use a rubber gasket on the nut so it will tighten evenly". To which I say that I trust 5200 to last 20 years not a rubber gasket.

 

[Jimsalv]

I would argue for 5200 on thru hulls (below or near the waterline) because you DO need adhesive. Often the inner hull surface is not flat and the thru hull nut does not come tight. Sometimes tightening the nut can tilt the thru hull in the opening (ASK ME HOW I KNOW).
By using 5200, the nut holds the fitting in position while the 5200 cures and then it NEVER moves or leaks for 20+ years.
I would call 20 years " permanent".

Now someone will say "but you use a rubber gasket on the nut so it will tighten evenly". To which I say that I trust 5200 to last 20 years not a rubber gasket.

You can argue all you want. Hopefully you didn't put 5200 on plastic thru hull fittings.

 

[Hookup1]

I would argue for 5200 on thru hulls (below or near the waterline) because you DO need adhesive. Often the inner hull surface is not flat and the thru hull nut does not come tight. Sometimes tightening the nut can tilt the thru hull in the opening (ASK ME HOW I KNOW).
By using 5200, the nut holds the fitting in position while the 5200 cures and then it NEVER moves or leaks for 20+ years.
I would call 20 years " permanent".

Now someone will say "but you use a rubber gasket on the nut so it will tighten evenly". To which I say that I trust 5200 to last 20 years not a rubber gasket.

Agreed - use 5200. If you should snap the mushroom head on the fitting (bouncing off a dock) the threaded part and the 5200 will keep it place. If it's too difficult to remove the fitting use a hole saw and drill them out. I changed all my above water line thru hulls out to stainless last year.

 

[SkunkBoat]

You can argue all you want. Hopefully you didn't put 5200 on plastic thru hull fittings.

I don't have any plastic thru hulls.

But again. its only coming out if is bad so why be concerned about ability to remove it without destroying it?

The OP had a plastic mushroom flange fail. I have had a 20 year old bronze flange fail.
Once the flange breaks off, there is no mechanical connection. Luckily Grady used 5200 when they put the bronze scuppers on my boat.

 

[DennisG01]

Agreed - use 5200. If you should snap the mushroom head on the fitting (bouncing off a dock) the threaded part and the 5200 will keep it place. If it's too difficult to remove the fitting use a hole saw and drill them out. I changed all my above water line thru hulls out to stainless last year.

Or.... the fitting breaks but the 5200 holds the mushroom head there giving the IMPRESSION that everything is OK... meanwhile the ocean funnels into the boat unbeknowngst to the operator. While, if the mushroom head falls off from not using 5200, then a prudent operator would notice the missing mushroom head. It's all about perspective

It's really all personal preference. For me... I couldn't tell you the last time I used 5200 over the last couple of decades.

 

[Hookup1]

Or.... the fitting breaks but the 5200 holds the mushroom head there giving the IMPRESSION that everything is OK... meanwhile the ocean funnels into the boat unbeknowngst to the operator. While, if the mushroom head falls off from not using 5200, then a prudent operator would notice the missing mushroom head. It's all about perspective

It's really all personal preference. For me... I couldn't tell you the last time I used 5200 over the last couple of decades.

You have it backwards - the 5200 holds the hose in the opening. On mine the forward bilge pump hose fitting popped the mushroom head off and the hose fell into the bilge behind the refrigerator. Of course it was a bad day and in the dark we had to run in from offshore. The hole was above the waterline but in a place where we would take some water in. The bilge pump would do it's job but the water could not get out of the boat. Bilge pump light was on the whole way home. Forward bilge is connected to aft bilge by 1/2" PVC pipe. It was also plugged by GW at the factory - bilges are separated. Factory uses gaskets because they are easy not necessary better.

Not sure why 5200 is such a issue for you. It would have kept the hose in place. Now all above waterline thru hulls are stainless.

 

[DennisG01]

You have it backwards - the 5200 holds the hose in the opening.

Possibly. But it could certainly happen the other way around, too.

5200 is one of the most widely over recommended things on the internet. I would use it on things I don't ever want to take apart or possibly need to replace because of damage. Other than that, other products have worked well for me over decades of personal use and professional use. In this case, this is a mechanical connection - it doesn't need glue.

But, like I said above, to each his own.

 

[SkunkBoat]

I would use it on things I don't ever want to take apart or possibly need to replace because of damage.

you mean like thru hulls under or near the waterline?

 

[Jimsalv]

You have it backwards - the 5200 holds the hose in the opening. On mine the forward bilge pump hose fitting popped the mushroom head off and the hose fell into the bilge behind the refrigerator. Of course it was a bad day and in the dark we had to run in from offshore. The hole was above the waterline but in a place where we would take some water in. The bilge pump would do it's job but the water could not get out of the boat. Bilge pump light was on the whole way home. Forward bilge is connected to aft bilge by 1/2" PVC pipe. It was also plugged by GW at the factory - bilges are separated. Factory uses gaskets because they are easy not necessary better.

Not sure why 5200 is such a issue for you. It would have kept the hose in place. Now all above waterline thru hulls are stainless.

I don't understand how 5200 would have helped, but everyone enjoys 5200 .

 

[Hookup1]

5200 is one of the most widely over recommended things on the internet. I would use it on things I don't ever want to take apart…it doesn't need glue.

I used 5200 to secure a piece of aluminum track for my cockpit cover to my hardtop. When I removed it for refinishing the hardtop it tore off the finish down to the glass fibers. Switching to plastic track and trying to decide what to bed it with. Not going to be 5200

Underside of hardtop. Large squares are glassed in Coosa boar for reinforcement of riggers out to tower aluminum. You can see the repair where the aluminum track was.
.

 

[Jimsalv]

I used 5200 to secure a piece of aluminum track for my cockpit cover to my hardtop. When I removed it for refinishing the hardtop it tore off the finish down to the glass fibers. Switching to plastic track and trying to decide what to bed it with. Not going to be 5200.

Yep, 5200 is permanent! Petit makes a product called Anchortec or something like that. It is very similar to 4200 and a lot cheaper

 

[Hookup1]

Yep, 5200 is permanent! Petit makes a product called Anchortec or something like that. It is very similar to 4200 and a lot cheaper

I'm using more 3M 4000 UV. It has medium adhesive properties so you still have to be careful. Not sure what I'll do. Probably install with a good GE silicone. If it moves I'll redo it.

 

[DennisG01]

I used 5200 to secure a piece of aluminum track for my cockpit cover to my hardtop. When I removed it for refinishing the hardtop it tore off the finish down to the glass fibers. Switching to plastic track and trying to decide what to bed it with. Not going to be 5200

Underside of hardtop. Large squares are glassed in Coosa boar for reinforcement of riggers out to tower aluminum. You can see the repair where the aluminum track was.
.View attachment 31126 View attachment 31127 View attachment 31128

Yeah, 5200's tensile strength is stronger than the bond between gelcoat and fiberglass... which you unfortunately found out.

Plastic is tough to bond to... will the "glue" be the only method of attachment? Or can you attach it mechanically?

 

[DennisG01]

you mean like thru hulls under or near the waterline?

Not in my book

Thru-hulls may need to come out at some point... damage, preventative maintenance, hose replacement, etc.