Well based on many owners talking about Buff Magic I went ahead and bought the 22oz can and the Pro Polish. In my many years of using various products to remove light oxidation and discolorations I have without a doubt find Buff Magic NOT to be magic at all. Won't even take out the light yellowing above waterline. Used it exactly as prescribed.. Dupont #7 does a much better job. The Pro Polish seems to give a nice shine but we'll see how long that lasts in the Florida sun and salt. Much less expensive products out there that do a much better job. Sent an email to the company telling them of my dissatisfaction, Never heard anything back from them. Oh by the way the 22oz very expensive little tub comes 3/4 full. Wish I would have weighed the contents. I'll repost on the Polish as I see how that hold up.
Buff Magic
- Thread starter twinlks
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Fishtales
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Thanks for the candid input. I've never used it, but the videos on youtube and other spots say the stuff is great and you'd thing Shurhold would have a decent product. Collinite 920 for light oxidation and Dupont #7 are both proven products. Guess I will stay with these.
Parthery
GreatGrady Captain
I've had good luck with Buff Magic, but you have to follow the instructions and work in small areas.
Never tried the Pro Polish.
Never tried the Pro Polish.
journeyman
GreatGrady Captain
Parthery said:
X2!
Did a nice job on my "New to Me" Marlin this past spring. Although, in all honesty, I have limited experience with other similar products but i will continue to use it.
Well some have had what seems to be satisfied results with Buff Magic but I followed their instructions to the letter. Even after buffing it off their seems to be a slight clouding. I have buffed many boats over the years and this product is certainly not Magic! thanks for your input. It seems the maker of this products doesn't care. Thats all! :!:
I've tried a number of polishes on a 13 ft Whaler I'm restoring plus on my Grady 265. (BTW the gelcoat on the Grady is far superior to the Whaler). I found the best result when using Buff Magic is to use a buff ball in a drill, not a buffing machine. The gunnels on the 265 look like new after the BM. The trick is to do small areas, as pointed out above. 3M polish seems better then the BM when a random orbital polisher is used- much less residual haze. If you have the BM, try the buff ball.
journeyman
GreatGrady Captain
Buff Magic's claim is that it is a progressive compound that will break down through the buffing process and go from a heavier to finer "grit" in one step, avoiding the necessity of multiple compound applications. As with any compound, you will need a coat of wax or use one of the new polishes on the market to make it pop (or both). When I finished an area and wiped it down with a microfiber cloth, I could tell it did it's job by the color of the cloth, lack of scratches and a smooth semi-gloss gelcoat. I'm sure there are better products out there but none easier to use and not screw up. Perfect for guys like me!!! :lol:
Dullness in gelcoat comes from the UV rays degrading the surface (no surprise there). On a microscopic level, the surface actually becomes pitted with "peaks and valleys" or "nooks and crannies". That surface won't look as shiny and smooth as one that has no peaks and valleys. Think of what the sea looks like when it's dead calm (like glass) compared to what it looks like with a little wind. So what the buffing needs to do is basically sand off those peaks, so the surface gets totally smooth again.
Here's a quick test to see how good your buffing skills (and product of choice) are... After you think it looks good, wipe the area with a clean, white rag soaked in acetone. Once the acetone flashes off, if the area still look good and shiny - great job! If not, what happened is that the product filled in those valleys, giving a false "smoothness". In the coming weeks, that product will diminish and wear away, giving you that dull finish again. Wiping the area with acetone gets rid of any leftover product and will tell you immediately if the surface is smooth or if it still has peaks and valleys. Once you get the surface the way you want it, wax (or a protectant) will keep the surface from being degraded again by the sun... as long as you keep up on your waxing!
Here's a quick test to see how good your buffing skills (and product of choice) are... After you think it looks good, wipe the area with a clean, white rag soaked in acetone. Once the acetone flashes off, if the area still look good and shiny - great job! If not, what happened is that the product filled in those valleys, giving a false "smoothness". In the coming weeks, that product will diminish and wear away, giving you that dull finish again. Wiping the area with acetone gets rid of any leftover product and will tell you immediately if the surface is smooth or if it still has peaks and valleys. Once you get the surface the way you want it, wax (or a protectant) will keep the surface from being degraded again by the sun... as long as you keep up on your waxing!
Great input from the forum..I can say now that at least the Shurhold people responded and satsified my complaints. I will try other products from them and report back on their pro's and con's if any. Thanks :goodjob