Buffing the stickers marks off the boat

[RussGW270]

Hey guys, I asked this on THT, but I always preface it with asking here because YOU all know GW better than anyone.

I picked up a nice variable speed Porter Cable and need to get the right tools to buff/clean this boat.

You can still see the remnants of the original stickers when it was bought in 2004, "Houston, TX" and I want to remove ALL the stickers so I can get the entire hull looking good and not see past stickers. THEN, I will add the new stickers

So, any idea what all I need?

Am reading that this Presta Ultra Creme is really good. 60 bucks for a tub of it.. not a huge deal, if it is good and I do not need 40 tubs.. lol

Going to gently use my heat gun to remove the stickers that are there.

I got some 2000 grit sandpaper to take care of any rough spots.

Russ

 

[imjus4u2nv]

Only advice I can give is on removal of stickers, I use an eraser wheel with great results (a little messy).

 

[RussGW270]

I heard that or some citrus based adhesive remover. I got a bottle of that as well as the rubber wheel heh

Am told the Fleetwood wax and polishing materials is good. I ordered a half gallon of the liquid and a couple cans of the wax paste.

Well, have not ordered it yet... have it in the cart. Still researching.

R

 

[Ky Grady]

Unless you wet sand the area, especially the old registration numbers area, you will have some degree of ghosting from the old stickers. I restriped my boat with factory replacement so they went over the ghosting from the originals. I can still see the old reg numbers if I look hard, I chose not to sand my hull, the ghosting is slowly fading with time.

 

[RussGW270]

I was told 1000 grit wet sanded will clean it up. Figured to use that and follow up with 2000 to make sure it removed sanding marks.

Also, typing on your phone while the dog does a drive by licking on your arm will jack up your typing

 

[seasick]

Depending on the age of the hull and to a great extent, it's exposure to sunlight and the elements, you may not be able to completely remove the ghosting since the uncovered gel coat has probably changed color over the years.. Of course, buffing may help but it may not be possible to completely hide the outlines.
Before trying to remove the outlines, you need to buff/compound and polish the surrounding areas to remove oxidation and expose the 'current true gel-coat color. You are not trying to match the areas under the decals to the exposed hull but are trying to match the areas NOT under the decals to those covered by the decals.
As mentioned, some ghosting may lessen over time but that is probably a result of the aging of the newly exposed areas (under the old decals).

 

[blindmullet]

Agreed. You will need to wetsand to get it close. I did 800-1000-1500-compound-seal-wax.

 

[RussGW270]

Okay, bought a Porter Cable orbital buffer. It was mentioned as being a good one for the price.

Some on tht say it will not do a good job, but lord...not everything we use should need to be the most expensive. I am planning to clean the boat up, not take it down to the wood.

Any reason why I need a 200-300 dollar buffer?

 

[blindmullet]

Okay, bought a Porter Cable orbital buffer. It was mentioned as being a good one for the price.

Some on tht say it will not do a good job, but lord...not everything we use should need to be the most expensive. I am planning to clean the boat up, not take it down to the wood.

Any reason why I need a 200-300 dollar buffer?

Nope--nothing wrong with a Harbor Freight model. You aren't doing it everyday. It's not a DA---just spins and you're not grinding. Spend the money on good pads.

 

[DennisG01]

If you're referring to the PC 7424, yes that is a very nice, random orbital buffer. But as good as it is, it won't compare to a true rotary buffer. A rotary buffer spins much faster and is stronger. The PC is "safer" to use, though, as working with a real rotary has a longer learning curve and it is possible to burn the gelcoat or 'sand' the gelcoat away too quickly. The PC 7424 is still a very nice tool - I have both a rotary and the 7424. The 7424 will work, it will just take a lot longer to do the same same chore - especially when it comes to heavier compounding. FYI, the rotary I have (for home use) is a digitally speed controlled model from HF and have had it for nearly 10 years.

Take note to what others mentioned, though, about gelcoat color and height/thickness... since the area under the current numbers has never been buffed or hit by UV, it may be thicker than the surrounding, exposed gelcoat.

Your idea of a heat gun is good - if the vinyl stickers are still in decent shape, they will peel right off. Then use some acetone or mineral spirts or paint thinner to remove any leftover goo. If the vinyl stickers are dry/cracked, then the rubber eraser wheel, also mentioned above, is fantastic.

 

[wrxhoon]

I normally use a hair dryer to remove stickers and I find it adequate, it softens the decal and peels off. You can use a heat gun but you have to be very careful not to burn the gelcoat.
As others mentioned the colour under the stickers that have been there from day one will be quite a bit different from the sun baked gelcoat if the boat has been under the sun.
You can wet sand the area 1200 then 1500 will do the trick, after that you need gelcoat compound and a rotary machine with variable speed and lamswool pad. Use the slowest speed to rub the compound in to it then buff off with faster speed, repeat with more compound if necessary to achieve the result you want. If you haven't used a buffer before you have to be careful not to burn the gelcoat, take it ease especially on sharp edges. Not a lot of pressure and move it don't stay in one spot. When you done all that use collinite fleet wax , not cheap but excellent.
By all means use your porter cable but you will spend a lot of time to get the results, that is more suited for good condition gel not ones with oxidation.

If it was my boat I wouldn't wet sand unless I was going to sell it or very badly oxidated . Every time you wet sand or even buff you take some of the gelcoat off. If you do sand it make sure you wax it all the time so you won't need to do it again and risk taking back to resign.
Good luck and let us know how you went.
I'm about to take off some stickers off from my new to me 228, I'm glad mine was kept undercover .

 

[RussGW270]

Actually, not worried about sanding. I just want to get it cleaned up. The new hull name etc will stand out plenty fine, not worried about the original... just that the residue is gone. Now, that being said...I have to take it in to get the screw holes etc repaired (removed the bimini) and I may talk to them about going through the entire hull with a "fine tooth comb" and going ahead and getting it looking new again. They already have to replace that transom cap as well, so should not take much to get it cleaned up as well.

R

 

[Fishtales]

I'd try to remove chemically first. Try the sticky reminders like goo gone first. Then cleaner like collinite 920, then either buff magic or a compound like dupont7. Just gotta work your way up the ladder. Wet sand only if needed.

 

[RussGW270]

I got a citrus adhesive remover. Will try that first.

 

[wrxhoon]

You won't have any problem removing the gum, use acetone that will do it . The problem you will have the colour under the removed decals will be different.

 

[usmm1234]

Professional Goof Off takes them off with lots of terry cloth rags. Just took a massive name off both sides of my 330. I removed the decals with a heat gun and finger nails. Then the Goof Off for the adhesive. Don’t buy the citrus one. Pro Formula gets it done.