Cabin Bulkheads-Cust Service

[Chilly1034]

Having read a few posts about the GW cabin bulkheads I am posting my experience with it.

My cabin bulkheads have rotted out on my 1995 Explorer 24. The port side became evident when the cabin door assembly fell out. I just finished replacing the port side. I am surprised at the corners cut here. Unsealed wood, especially at the bottom where it just wicks up water from the deck. Also, stapled welting right into the plywood. Arrrg!

I called GW and they were nice but I wasn't overly impressed with the Customer Service. I couldn't get a price until I went through the dealer, which took a week to get. I could only imagine how long it would have taken to fabricate. They did give me the name of the manufacturer of the panels who did tell me the specific color of formica (Antique White) which is used. I ordered a 4 X 8 sheet from Home Depot for $55.00 and received it in a couple days.

I used MDO Plywood, which turns out to be 3/4 inch and a hair over due to the paper facing. It is supposed to be the best exterior grade plywood-sign makers use it.

I used liquid nails to glue the formica onto the plywood and then sealed all the end grain with epoxy and fiberglass tape. I also used adhesive to reattach the welting instead of staples

I added a little too much to the end that holds the cabin door and had to trim it up and reseal

Since I trimmed a hair too much, a little fiberglass was visible from the inside. I fixed that by caulking and inserting a plastic trim piece I got from Lowe's.

I also over drilled the screw holes for mounting bulkhead and cabin door hinge and filled them with thickened epoxy before redrilling to the screw size.

I also noticed the side arm rest was falling apart and again unsealed plywood

I was able to reuse the Formica and re glue it to a new piece of 1/2 plywood and resealed the end grain and did the screw holes as above. I don't have the pictures for that part right now and will post them later if anyone wants.

The starboard side is also rotting out but not as bad. I sealed the end and screw holes hoping it gets me through this season and will use the leftover plywood and Formica to do that side this winter.

While all this was almost completed I got the call from dealer-price for port side was about $180 and they get $260 for starboard side. Ouch! That's a lot of money for GW taking shortcuts there. I hope their current models have improved in that regard. Not what I expected from the GW name. Notwithstanding, I love the boat but that was irritating to say the least. I would have thought that they would have been more helpful in maybe calling the dealer direct and at least getting me a price ASAP, not refer me to have dealer email them and respond at their leisure.

Well, I know what my first winter project will be and at least I got the materials for both sides cheaper that one completed piece from dealer that I would still have to trim to fit and seal MYSELF.

I will post some pics later on of the finished installation. If anyone wants I will find the invoice from Home Depot with the exact Formica model number to match.

 

[BobP]

Caulk all that trim around the base too, just in case.

It's particularly difficult on boats w/o hardtops, since rain will lay up under all the areas involved on the bridge.

Head compartment walls inside cabin are also prone to water at base. Rigging tube walls under bridge sides, anyware wood is contacting deck.

If doing the wood in starboard instead, double to triple the price.

Nice work.

I like formica too. easy to clean and hard to permanently damage, unlilke starboard.

 

[Capt Khaos]

I took the old bulkheads from my '02 Seafarer to a local marine carpentry shop "Seafarer Marine". They sell materials too! They took one look at the rotted original bulkhead and said this was not even marine ply. The endgrain was not sealed and they were surprised this was used in a GW. They built me new bulkheads, using the old ones as templates, out of Okumi marine plywood. Not only is the wood used impervious to water and rot but the glue is also marine grade and waterproof. They put Formica on both sides and the charge was $147.27 for each side. I used West System on the end grain all the way around and caulked the heck out of seams. Much better than new. Why would GW try to save a few bucks by using these substandard materials? I'm worried about the rest of the wood (transom!) too.
Cheers,
Dan

 

[striped bass]

Capt Khaos:
The answer to your question about Grady White is that Grady is a production manufacturing boat company like all the rest. They must compete with the other manufacturers on price and use sloppy processes the customer can't see to cut down costs. Don't get me wrong, I like Grady boats, I own a Grady and will probably buy another Grady. But Grady is still a PRODUCTTION manufacturer when all is said and done. I have discussed this issue at length with our local fiberglass repair shops and there is total agreement that all the fiberglass manufacturers use the same sloppy processes that the customer can't see in order to compete on price. Sad but true. Here are some helpful web sites that explain the issue.

http://www.yachtsurvey.com/core_materials.htm

http://www.yachtsurvey.com/DeckLeaks.htm

http://www.yachtsurvey.com/Fiberglass_Boats.htm

http://www.yachtsurvey.com/more_on_cores.htm

 

[bhemi]

I disagree on the production excuse

Grady has always been a much higher priced boat and should deliver a higher quality product. Their customer service seems to be capable of claming down irate people and keeping their JD Powers numbers up.

I wish Grady would set up an internet shop and sell parts to people who either hate their local dealer (me) or simply aren't close to one.

 

[BobP]

Kaos, marine plywood is not waterproof, it's a multi layer void free, better glue grade all purpose wood, and it's not treated which makes it easier to get better absorption of resin w/o special preparations. The plywood has plenty of layers as you show it, plenty of strength.

For an outdoor application, Grady didn't seal the end grain and caulk screw holes, all they had to do was apply resin to end grains, they also should have caulked the trim to the base and bulkhead down there. These things add labor tinme, neglibible material cost, but have a profound effect on longevity.

If what I wrote was done, the bulkhead today and 50 yrs from now would be equal of a new one.

 

[gradyfish22]

I agree Bob, they should ahve chaulked the bulkhead to deck for sure if nothing else, and any and ALL exposed end grain wood needs to have resin applied to it if not finished off nicely...which it should be, but many builders do not do. I had to take mine out before it rotted and applied resin and then chaulked it in, still the original from 1989 that the new owner has.

As far as customer service...I just had a horrible run in with them...still not done. My vent window on my stbd side popped off while running, the handle broke...IMHO their issue with a plastic handle. Honestly they should be covering it but they aren't, not going to even go into that battle with them, I just want a replacement, I keep playing cat and mouse between the dealer Grady and myself to order one, they keep saying one glass fabricator has the jig...they do not, now they say another does but nobody has ordered it yet....this is 8 weeks now....absolutely horrible. My company would NEVER allow that, I would have had it in a week, 2 at tops. I'm hoping Grady will sell me the metal trim and I'll have one cut by a local glass guy myself. Their customer service has taken a big nose dive ihe past 6 months, they used to be the best but it has been getting worse and worse each time I call since new years.