yo' rain, don't think anybody can know what 20 years of weather is gonna do to our efforts. Was not challenging what you've done. As one boat guy to another let's just share what we've learned.
Cabin Bulkheads Use Wood or Starboard?
- Thread starter ddog
- Start date
NO problem at all I was just posting my personal ex. with the starboard. It's not a one size fits all mat'l for sure.
I don't really post alot on here but when I do it's from first hand experience, and I try to relate what I know. Again NO problem at all on my end. " RAINMAKER"
I don't really post alot on here but when I do it's from first hand experience, and I try to relate what I know. Again NO problem at all on my end. " RAINMAKER"
If anything I think the real question is really vertical strength. Does anyone know of any valid studies regarding comparison tests on plywood vs. starboard in equal thickness?
For a vertical shock load, both perform OK. Now with a constant load on the starboard, it will bow.
Besides the above,
Starboard is not a structural material, it will yield and bend out of shape and sag when permanently loaded even from it's own weight over time. It stains readily and not shiney nor hard, so keep the kids with crayons and pens away from it, it will not clean. Don't nick it with any tools or the like.
I had a 2 ft x 2 ft piece of 1/2 in. starboard leaning against the garage wall for about a year, before getting to a job I had planned, it bent out of shape and now has a warp in it. It was perfectly flat when purchased.
I bought another piece once mail order, same thing, it came bent, had to send it back for a refund.
If you look at the pieces in the marine store on those display stand-up racks, check for warps line of sight, you will be surprised.
Starboard makes great trim (if you like colors available and texture) and fish cutting board, since it holds the knide edge and won't rot or hold water/germs readily.
Starboard is very very expensive.
I disagree with Brian GW204 on the need for glass fabric coating on plywood, I would say saturating it with lighter viscosity epoxy resin is good enough in this application (like MAS or RAKA product), particularly the end grains, that's where it rots from usually, from the bottom up, where it meets the deck and water can be trapped and sits. Think of end grain as a wick.
Glue on the formica sides and that's it.
Use a regular brush and muliple resin coats on end grain until finish is smooth, two or three coats should do it, don't have to wait until first drys so no amine blush nonsense to worry about. You will see it sink in, wait 10 minutes or so and do it again, untill finish is smooth, 2 or 3 applications will do it, buy the cheapest brush. I use foam rolloers, and cut them into several narrower pieces and use a narrow roller handle. And actually keep using same roller through all the 10 minute iterval applications for something like this.
My cabin bulkhead holds up the bridge console, I want structural material.
It is not a partition wall.
Starboard doesn't work well with caulks when trying to seal it against anything else.
The manufacturers of King Starboard markets it as the do anything material, doesn't mean it is.
Hard to cut a smooth edge, have to use a router bit, using sandpaper a waste of time.
Stripping holes out where screws are, good luck trying to make the hole re-usabe again, I can rebuild wood stripped hole with thickend epoxy resin.
Starboard is not a structural material, it will yield and bend out of shape and sag when permanently loaded even from it's own weight over time. It stains readily and not shiney nor hard, so keep the kids with crayons and pens away from it, it will not clean. Don't nick it with any tools or the like.
I had a 2 ft x 2 ft piece of 1/2 in. starboard leaning against the garage wall for about a year, before getting to a job I had planned, it bent out of shape and now has a warp in it. It was perfectly flat when purchased.
I bought another piece once mail order, same thing, it came bent, had to send it back for a refund.
If you look at the pieces in the marine store on those display stand-up racks, check for warps line of sight, you will be surprised.
Starboard makes great trim (if you like colors available and texture) and fish cutting board, since it holds the knide edge and won't rot or hold water/germs readily.
Starboard is very very expensive.
I disagree with Brian GW204 on the need for glass fabric coating on plywood, I would say saturating it with lighter viscosity epoxy resin is good enough in this application (like MAS or RAKA product), particularly the end grains, that's where it rots from usually, from the bottom up, where it meets the deck and water can be trapped and sits. Think of end grain as a wick.
Glue on the formica sides and that's it.
Use a regular brush and muliple resin coats on end grain until finish is smooth, two or three coats should do it, don't have to wait until first drys so no amine blush nonsense to worry about. You will see it sink in, wait 10 minutes or so and do it again, untill finish is smooth, 2 or 3 applications will do it, buy the cheapest brush. I use foam rolloers, and cut them into several narrower pieces and use a narrow roller handle. And actually keep using same roller through all the 10 minute iterval applications for something like this.
My cabin bulkhead holds up the bridge console, I want structural material.
It is not a partition wall.
Starboard doesn't work well with caulks when trying to seal it against anything else.
The manufacturers of King Starboard markets it as the do anything material, doesn't mean it is.
Hard to cut a smooth edge, have to use a router bit, using sandpaper a waste of time.
Stripping holes out where screws are, good luck trying to make the hole re-usabe again, I can rebuild wood stripped hole with thickend epoxy resin.