Hay Yall,
I do as much as I can on my boat's maintenance. I was doing a late spring maintenance a few weeks ago . Washed the interior well and tested the bilge pumps and float switches fore and aft. I could not get the aft float switch to activate the pump. I checked all my fuses . The pump worked when I manually switched it on. I went back checked the fuses again and tested again. Nope no dice.
On the 228 you need to remove the live well to get clean access to the bilge area where the pumps and float switch is mounted. So , I remove it and again I test the switch one more time . I didn't put a multimeter on it to test for continuity . I just said, the float switch has been in service for 15 years . Time for a new one.
Now I live in the heart of the Smokies so we don't have any decent marine stores nearby. I order a new float switch and pay extra to get it here quickly. I take off work a little early to start my project. I splice the water proof connector Grady uses and I solder and heat shrink a water tight connection. I put on the connector and test the new switch. And , NOTHING! I might have cussed. So, I again trace the wire back and low and behold I find a waterproof spade fuse connector with NO Fuse in it! Ugh! I pop a 5 AMP fuse in the holder and test the switch. Voila , bilge pump spins up! I spent about 4 hours of my time this week checking the electrical system, removing the live well, checking more, removing old float , installing a new float and installing the live well back.
Moral of the story, don't be Bob. Get your Grady wiring diagram out and save time and money . A 59 cent fuse would have prevented all this . I am sharing my failure as a cautionary tale of sorts. Got an electrical problem check your breakers and fuses first, all of them. You're Welcome.
On a serious note, Boat US often reports on top insurance claims and causes. The leading claim is dockside sinking and it's caused by faulty float switches, bad batteries and failed bilge pumps. Thru hull failures are often the drivers of flooding in the first place. I am a stickler for safety. So, test your pumps and switches before the season starts. Check your thru hulls and hoses and hose clamps .
I do as much as I can on my boat's maintenance. I was doing a late spring maintenance a few weeks ago . Washed the interior well and tested the bilge pumps and float switches fore and aft. I could not get the aft float switch to activate the pump. I checked all my fuses . The pump worked when I manually switched it on. I went back checked the fuses again and tested again. Nope no dice.
On the 228 you need to remove the live well to get clean access to the bilge area where the pumps and float switch is mounted. So , I remove it and again I test the switch one more time . I didn't put a multimeter on it to test for continuity . I just said, the float switch has been in service for 15 years . Time for a new one.
Now I live in the heart of the Smokies so we don't have any decent marine stores nearby. I order a new float switch and pay extra to get it here quickly. I take off work a little early to start my project. I splice the water proof connector Grady uses and I solder and heat shrink a water tight connection. I put on the connector and test the new switch. And , NOTHING! I might have cussed. So, I again trace the wire back and low and behold I find a waterproof spade fuse connector with NO Fuse in it! Ugh! I pop a 5 AMP fuse in the holder and test the switch. Voila , bilge pump spins up! I spent about 4 hours of my time this week checking the electrical system, removing the live well, checking more, removing old float , installing a new float and installing the live well back.
Moral of the story, don't be Bob. Get your Grady wiring diagram out and save time and money . A 59 cent fuse would have prevented all this . I am sharing my failure as a cautionary tale of sorts. Got an electrical problem check your breakers and fuses first, all of them. You're Welcome.
On a serious note, Boat US often reports on top insurance claims and causes. The leading claim is dockside sinking and it's caused by faulty float switches, bad batteries and failed bilge pumps. Thru hull failures are often the drivers of flooding in the first place. I am a stickler for safety. So, test your pumps and switches before the season starts. Check your thru hulls and hoses and hose clamps .
