Circuit Breaker Replacements?

[ROBERTH]

Hi folks, was just replacing some of the Euro design Green LED switches I finally found a source for, and in doing so, and guess it is cold enough pulling on the wires, a couple of my ETA 1658 breakers broke off at the threads.

Any idea of good source for these? I did find them online, but not being an expert in electrical knowledge, I am finding them for the following variables:
Voltage rating AC 240 V; DC 28 V Current ratings 5...30 A

So, assume for the 12V DC system, I would use the 28V switch? or does this mean they work with AC and DC current? I would also need to find one at 15 or 20A for the helm switches which control bilge pump and accessories?

I did find this as a reference in 20A, can also get in 15A if necessary: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/e-t-a/1658-G21-01-P10-20A/302-1266-ND/659613

 

[ROBERTH]

Looking at the Grady manual, and the old one's are not well documented specifically to breakers, but I see the most fuse amps are 15amp. So think I will go for the 15A Blue Seas I can get from here:

https://www.alliedelec.com/product/blue-sea-systems/7056b/71660581/

Will wait for your advise first....

Dennis, I now you will know this....

 

[DennisG01]

Dennis, I now you will know this....

Let's see if I can wing it, here...

Yes, it gets confusing because of the various ratings. #1, the rated voltage you see listed is MAX - as long as you don't exceed that, you're fine. #2, there is ALSO an AC rating on that breaker, which adds to the confusion. Some breaker manufacturers will only list a DC rating... that's simply because they haven't done the extra testing to confirm that it can be rated for both DC and AC. Blue Seas/Carling Tech is a great company - they spent the extra money to get both certifications.

The quick answer... that breaker will work for your situation. Just make sure you don't "upsize" the breaker or you risk burning the wires up. A breaker is meant to protect the wiring, not the appliance.

This is the manufacturer page, which also gives "where to buy" options. I only mention this because I know nothing about that Allied company: https://www.bluesea.com/products/7056/Push_Button_Reset_Only_Quick_Connect_Circuit_Breaker_-_15_Amps

 

[ROBERTH]

Thanks Dennis, spot on!

I checked further and have sinced learned the breaker size protects the wiring as you said and that the wiring I am using is rated for 15 amps, so should be ok with the 15A breakers.
None of my old one's have the labels in tact so not sure what they were.

I also found a more clear explanation on the Blue Seas site since I found the Allied did not have stock .

The best price I found was on this site:

7056, Push Button Reset-Only Circuit Breaker

www.electricalhub.com

Small company in Washington, so seems ok so far. The price of these breakers can be upwards of 25+ dollars on some sites...geez. So got to watch it there. Also, they have the covers available at a very low price as well :

4137, Push Button Reset Only Circuit Breaker Waterproof Boots

www.electricalhub.com

Putting this out there for others in case they need same.

Also, the switches I finally found to work, in green like original, but in LED and lower brightness so as hopefully not to blind me in the dark nights like the Blue one's I had installed a few years ago:

54-736-1 NTE Rocker | Hawk Electronics

www.hawkusa.com

The first order on the switches I had ordered were for AC and not DC, so I had to reorder to make sure I had the right one's. Seems the switches were not reliably compatible being one for DC and the other for AC. Different part numbers. Live and learn.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Also, the switches I finally found to work, in green like original, but in LED and lower brightness so as hopefully not to blind me in the dark nights like the Blue one's I had installed a few years ago:

54-736-1 NTE Rocker | Hawk Electronics

www.hawkusa.com

The first order on the switches I had ordered were for AC and not DC, so I had to reorder to make sure I had the right one's. Seems the switches were not reliably compatible being one for DC and the other for AC. Different part numbers. Live and learn.

Have you confirmed that they fit the cutout in the panel?
The McGill Euros were slightly smaller than everything new out there which means you have to file out the openings in the panel to replace.

 

[ROBERTH]

Good point and was not thinking about that, however, based upon the picture size in comparison with the terminals, they appear to be exactly the same as the ETA's . I hope the pics are accurate!
Fingers crossed as they should arrive next Friday.

 

[ROBERTH]

Update! Got my new breakers in. They are exact size replacements. I had 4 of mine broken, so replaced them and will just let the others stay for now.
The only difference is the threads are slightly different enough where I can't reuse the original waterproof boots, but I did order new ones to work with these switches.
These breakers are made by Carling according to the label on them. Electricalhub was the cheapest but these are available also on Amazon.

 

[RussGW270]

Yea, I need to replace one of the dash push button breakers, that sit next to the rocker switch. I forgot to take a picture last time I removed the panel, but need to locate what the heck the thing is... runs the fuel pump or gas rocker switch. The plastic broke off halfway down the threads

 

[ROBERTH]

Yeah, mine also broke at the base of the threads. Seemed a bit of stress moving wires behind the panel in the colder weather snapped off 4 of my breakers at the base.
All replaced now and good to go.

By the way, I ran a heat gun in the cabin bathroom, access area behind the panel to warm up so that the wiring and all plastic would not be so hard and brittle and that worked like a charm.
The old plastic does not like cold weather!

 

[glacierbaze]

Yea, I need to replace one of the dash push button breakers, that sit next to the rocker switch. I forgot to take a picture last time I removed the panel, but need to locate what the heck the thing is... runs the fuel pump or gas rocker switch. The plastic broke off halfway down the threads

Russ, that switch lets you read main or aux fuel tank on the single gauge.

 

[billbass]

I know this is an old post but I noticed someone saying their 'wiring was rated for 15 amps'. There can be more to a proper rating for a circuit than the wires you see. It is best to stay with the rating for that circuit, usually defined on the fuse block for that circuit. If you use a 15A breaker and the designer expected a maximum of 5A you could wind up with a fire on board. Unless someone knows every factor of where every wire goes and what its connected to its safest to stay with the designer's amp rating. I've heard the stories "well I used a 30A fuse in a 5 A slot and nothing happened". Thats not an ideal way to know something is safe. To that guy with the 30A fuse, keep a few extra fire extinguishers on board.

 

[billbass]

Here is the multi-page spec on the Mechanical Products breaker switches used on some GW boats as part of the switch panel: https://www.mechprod.com/hubfs/_2017/Data Sheets/MP Series 16 Datasheet QC-4006-A.pdf
One of mine was the 5amp version, 1680-219-050. Its not on the spec but the factory told me the little black rubber nipple cover is the 1680-318-2 and the clear one is 1680-318-1. I suggest not buying the clear one unless sunlight never hits your control panel. Clear plastics and rubber will not hold up as well as black in direct sunlight. If you choose one of the other dash numbers after the 1680 you should go into it wisely. They are all different and you may have an adaptation problem. The -219 has a slightly bent terminal for a 8-32 threaded screw. Others have various other connection types. Cheers.

 

[DennisG01]

Be careful, everyone, with the post by Oliver. It appears to be a bot (non-human) response. Other posts by this bot are similar, often with an embedded link. And there's always something "off" with the posts. I've been seeing the same thing quite a bit on another forum. Skynet is coming