Clean fuse block or replace? Opinions needed!!!!

cobrapowersys

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I have a 1995 268 Islander. The fuse contacts and fuse teeth are sporatically kicking in and out. I am on the fence about changing the contact block, or cleaning it, and replacing the fuses.

Does anyone have any ideas. If for cleaning, specifically how, and what products to use.

My gut tells me to replace the fuse block, but it may not be necessary if all it is, is corrosion........
 

bc282

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nothing last forever.
if original, it may very well be time for a compete re-wire of the boat especially since it's been sitting in a marine environment for 15+ years.
Gradys are great boats, but their wiring has been sub par in many ways. The lack of use of proper marine grade wire and connectors eventually lead to problems due to corrosion in connectors and the wire.

use marine grade tinned stranded wire, tinned marine connectors, waterproof connections with heat shrink or similar, and use some Corrosion X as your friend.

you can try to replace just the block (i like Blue Seas blocks), but when you replace some connectors you may find ugly black corrosion having crept up the wire.
As a rookie years ago i wired my downriggers using heavy extension cord wire from Home Depot and i replaced that wire after just 2 years. That boat sat on a trailer in-land and was used relatively sparsely over the short season yet ugly black corrosion had crept up the wire (non-tinned copper) an amazing 4-7 feet from the ends!

I recently ran 2 pair of primary wires to feed 2 new blocks from the batteries and went a little overkill with 8 ga wire (got a great deal on the spools!).
The heavy wire allow me to add to the block with out worrying about over heating wires and stressing gear (yes, buy a block with more space than you need for eventual additions).

check out genuine dealz for marine wire and connectors, blocks, etc., great prices and service.

Probably not the answer you wanted, but if you re-wire now, you'll avoid a ton of future elec issues which are difficult to trouble shoot and hit at the worst of times and you'll have peace of mind of the next 10+ years.
 

cobrapowersys

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Thank you for sharing that info. while this may not be the response I wanted to hear it may have been the response I was expecting. I am not sure about the wiring to my fuse block I will check. however I am fairly confident that by changing the fuse block with a larger fuse block this will solve my problems. also I have a couple of terminals on the current fuse block where the previous owner doubled up circuits adding two circuits per fuse. therefore by adding a new fuse block off larger size I will give each circuit its proper terminal.  with new fuses I should be good to go. 
 

Doc Stressor

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I'll second everything that bc282 posted. Don't just replace the fuse block. Rewire your boat to avoid the inevitable electrical connection problems that you will experience otherwise.

I used to rewire my old Grady every 3 years. I would change everything out except for the engine harness stuff. That was overkill, but it stopped the intermittent problems that used to drive me crazy.

Using tinned wire, modern marine grade heat shrink connectors, and corrosion-X will greatly extend the life of your wiring.

I will say that the electrical system wiring on the newer GWs is a big improvement over the older models.
 

cobrapowersys

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Question: Do you use Corrosion X on everything? Including the fuse block, and engine components? How often?
 

Doc Stressor

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I spray it on every electrical connection that I can reach on the boat and in the engine when I wax my boat. That would be about every 6 months. I use it on my fishing reels as well. It's good stuff. I have no visible corrosion on anything that I've been hitting with Corrosion-X.
 

SwampGrizz

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This is a very timely discussion for me. I have a 2000 228G Seafarer, and I'm thinking it's time to get it rewired. I've had no problems or anything, but maybe this winter I may look into getting it done. Can anybody give me a range of what it would cost to completely rewire the boat? I know there are a lot of variables, but I'm just looking to see how many clams I will have to save up before I start talking to somebody. Are we talking $1K, 2K, 3K? More?

Thanks in advance for your responses, and I appreciate the help.

Swamp Grizz
 

cobrapowersys

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High side for a 228 is $500 in material, and $500 in labor if you shop around. More realistic is $350 material, $500 labor. If it is more I would look into another marine electrician. I am an electrician, and is the only reason why I will be doing my boat myself.
 

cobrapowersys

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Check genuinedealz ebay store as mentioned above. They have all the wiring you need.
 

bc282

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before guessing that your wiring is sufficient, do a calculation of the amperage demand.
as electronics and devices evolve, boats are becoming more and more electrically demanding (bigger and more electronics and displays, auto pilot, lights, stereos, macerators, pumps, etc.).
you may find that the primary wires feeding your block are inadequate for the demand asked of it and poses a real threat of hurting your equipment and fire.
hence i ran heavy wire to make it easier on all devices (lower voltage drop on heavier wire) and room for future additions.
IMO, you'll need 3 different gauges of wire in the two basic colors (red and black). Primary wire from block to batteries/or switch(es) and feeder wires from devices to block (2 different gauges for devices that require higher amp vs. low amp draw devices). i'd buy (2) 25' spool of primary, (2) 10-12 gauge 50' feeders, and (2) 14-16 gauge 50' feeders.
Never a bad idea to go with a heavier wire than needed.