Ok guys what do you use? Plexus? Pledge? Do you leave yours out all year, keep them rolled up or store them inside? ANy tips would be appreciated.
Cleaning your Eisenglass curtains
- Thread starter Bama96
- Start date
Rinse, light clean with boat soap, rinse, dry, then apply 303 Aerospace Protetcorant and wipe till dry.
Works well for me since my curtains are not hazy or scratched
Works well for me since my curtains are not hazy or scratched
Plexus only, after searching long and hard. I can lasts several yrs.
Canvas on 8th season, has 8 more in her!
Thanks to Megabytes tip.
Canvas on 8th season, has 8 more in her!
Thanks to Megabytes tip.
I found a product similar to Plexus, but IMO, way better. It's called "Protect All". Only problem is, it's hard to find. It also does a spectacular job on Grady rub rails.
I always use soft terri-cloth towels to clean. Never use a paper towel.
Rolled, never fold. Store it in that nice OEM Grady White storage bag
I always use soft terri-cloth towels to clean. Never use a paper towel.
Rolled, never fold. Store it in that nice OEM Grady White storage bag
I use Plexus and have been very satisfied with it. I'm told to avoid scratches, treat your Isenglass like the painted surface of a ferrari...
Using Plexus my self for many years with no regrets. When store, i roll them idividualy with a layer of bubble wrap to keep them from scratching in their bag. I put up mine in October and November, then remove again.
You guys ever use denatured alcohol on them? Trying to find something to bring back the clarity. Thanks for the tip with the bubble wrap NEM.
I've always used Plexus to clean and polish. Has anyone ever tried the Flitz product on their eisenglass? I have a few small scratches that I would like to buff out if I could.
For small scratches i use Meguiers #17, comes in a small flat kind plasti bottle or 210 plastic scratch remover.
Plexus will bring back clarity since it makes it shiney by adding a film, making it shiney makes it clearer. I bet Pledge works similar.
Scrathes are another issue. I don't bother with them, tried in the past, water under bridge too late now.
And when storing off season, make sure canvas and windows are bone dry before rolling up. I lay them out in the sun all day after morning cleaning. And the windows shouldn't touch eachother, they can stick together.
I use WD40 on zipper sliders, works fine. Mitigates corrosion of the white metal.
Scrathes are another issue. I don't bother with them, tried in the past, water under bridge too late now.
And when storing off season, make sure canvas and windows are bone dry before rolling up. I lay them out in the sun all day after morning cleaning. And the windows shouldn't touch eachother, they can stick together.
I use WD40 on zipper sliders, works fine. Mitigates corrosion of the white metal.
I've found a light coat of Vaseline on the zippers and snaps keeps them working great. I have used silicone spray and WD40 on the zippers but the Vaseline seems to last the longest.
I never remove the curtains from my boat. They're too much of a pain to reinstall and I find that I use them a good bit in the summer when I get caught in a thunderstorm. Rolled up gives me the air flow without the hassle.
At times I've washed the boat without unrolling the curtains and gotten water inside the roll. They do have a tendency to be cloudy when unrolled but it doesn't take the sun very long to clear them up.
The scratches in my glass are pretty minor and don't impair vision but it would be nice to get them out. They're in really good shape for a nearly 10 year old boat.
I never remove the curtains from my boat. They're too much of a pain to reinstall and I find that I use them a good bit in the summer when I get caught in a thunderstorm. Rolled up gives me the air flow without the hassle.
At times I've washed the boat without unrolling the curtains and gotten water inside the roll. They do have a tendency to be cloudy when unrolled but it doesn't take the sun very long to clear them up.
The scratches in my glass are pretty minor and don't impair vision but it would be nice to get them out. They're in really good shape for a nearly 10 year old boat.
I think if you try to get out the scrathes, you have to use a product that is somewhat abrasive like polishing compound is to fiberglass, but this can effect the shinniness of the entire surface you apply to. Then you have to use something to get the shininess back.
I used the Mequiers two products, one for scratches and had such an experience. Never again. Tossed it in the can.
That's just my experience, for others the canvas guys may offer professional cleaning and know how to get scrathes out and keep the overall surface super smooth and shiney.
I used the Mequiers two products, one for scratches and had such an experience. Never again. Tossed it in the can.
That's just my experience, for others the canvas guys may offer professional cleaning and know how to get scrathes out and keep the overall surface super smooth and shiney.
If you have the time.....here is a great combination. Absolutely use Denatured Alcohol and clean out all the build up. Then use a 1,500 RPM buffer (not orbital) with standard car wax to buff out light scratches over the entire area front and back. Keep a light layer of wax or pledge on them when boating and it fills in very fine scratches that looks amazingly clear. If this does not meet your standards, I would suggest they are too far gone. I store them off of the boat and wrap each layer with newspaper and roll up. Clear Eisenglass, I think, makes the boat look new again. Good Luck!
I use Pledge (lemon) smells nice on the glass but I use surf board wax on the zippers and snaps. Works great on outriggers also keeps water out.
when you say on outriggers do you mean on the line itself?? Not sure what you're keeping water out of.
I have been told to NOT use the LEMON pledge ONLY the REGULAR pledge.This was by the guy that made the enclosures.Some thing in the lemon pledge ruins the eisen glass. fyi :wink:I HAVE FOUND "REJEX" TO BE THE BEST PRODUCT BECAUSE IT LASTS THE LONGEST.iT ALSO IS VERY SLICK AND YOU CAN WASH WITH DETERGENT AND IT DOES NOT DISSOLVE.After a normal wash when you dry with a soft towel it rebuffs and leaves no spots.It is also FANTASTIC for the rest of the boat, including the bright work.The key is that it is resistant to detergent!!Regular waxes are gone if you use anything but boat soap or car soap!My last boat left my posession looking new including the eisenglass, aluminum and gel coat because of REJEX.And that was a 10 year old boat I bought new. :wink: jUST GOOGLE rejex and see the opinions.The results are real.