Close the bow on a Tournament 192?

Noble Savage

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We live in Santa Barbara and routinely take our 19 footer across the 25 mile channel to the islands. We have yet to fully poke the bow on our Grady, but it is certainly in the realm of possible. The local commercial boats (mostly by Don Radon) are all closed bow. So we think it makes sense to glass over the open bow while retaining the existing windshield. We would appreciate any advice you might have with respect to material choice, weight issues, anchor storage solutions, and those sorts of things. Currently the boat is set up as a dual console. We also want to move the steering so that the boat is more readily operated from a standing position. I honestly don't understand what conditions the factory seat, windshield and steering are set up for...lol. One concern is that standing and operating this boat puts the drivers face awfully close to the windshield frame. In the future we might consider a lightweight spray cabin, but for now we like seeing the world without that cabin fever feel. Fowl weather gear is in style these days. Any advice, including plywood thickness, glass type, layout, whatever, would be appreciated. I've included a picture of my Grady, plus a picture of an Arima that looks like what I envision. IMG_0724.jpgIMG_6104.jpgView recent photos.jpg
 

PointedRose

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Personally I’d recommend finding the boat designed how you want it, rather than altering an older boat.

some bow riders have a canvas cover for the front. Maybe that’s an easier and cheaper option? Or maybe you could fabricate a foldable, removable marine plywood cover, that you could fasten in?
 

seasick

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Personally I’d recommend finding the boat designed how you want it, rather than altering an older boat.

some bow riders have a canvas cover for the front. Maybe that’s an easier and cheaper option? Or maybe you could fabricate a foldable, removable marine plywood cover, that you could fasten in?
I agree.
 

DennisG01

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The reason for the layout of your boat (the "conditions" you mentioned) is to blue the line between a fishing boat and a sports/runabout for the family. Lot's of families like that particular layout with the way the seats are arranged and a full windshield. It just sounds like it's not the right boat FOR YOU... which, after all, is all that really matters! :) But there is a solid reason for the layout of the boat - it's just for different "uses" than you are using it.

I agree with the others though - it would probably be best to look at a different style boat that suits your needs better, to start with, and then sell the 192. If you're only going to add a bow cover - that wouldn't be too bad. But if you're going to get into altering the steering... that's a game changer. I'm not even sure you can do it without it looking like a hack job - which would severely affect resale. Either way, it's going to be A LOT of money and time to do it.

Monetarily speaking, you'll be ahead of the game by buying a new boat - and you can look for the exact style that suits you.
 

Noble Savage

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I hear your point about buying the right boat. But used boats are very hard to come by in California compared to places like Texas or Florida. The previous owner never used this boat so the outboard is pristine and we don’t have to contend with so many problems that come with used boats…transom and stringer rot, fuel tanks, outboard issues and such. Not to mention it takes 22 gallons of fuel for a basic trip, so a bigger boat gets pricey to operate real quick. I like the idea of a foldable or removable bow. As I think about it, there are a lot of boats here that are modified to add some level of weather protection. Plus it will be a fun project with my son. Thanks for the solid advice
 

PointedRose

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I hear your point about buying the right boat. But used boats are very hard to come by in California compared to places like Texas or Florida.
you can find the boat and get it shipped to you. Even some travel costs you will probably save $ buying elsewhere than CA. Look in the northeast for example.

I’ve noticed in recent weeks more and more quality boats being listed for sale, prices are still high though, but I think will come down a bit.

careful on your comment about FL - after this hurricane there is severe devastation. I suspect it’ll be more difficult to buy in FL for the next 2 years than in CA. Except submerged salvage.
 

DennisG01

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I hear your point about buying the right boat. But used boats are very hard to come by in California compared to places like Texas or Florida. The previous owner never used this boat so the outboard is pristine and we don’t have to contend with so many problems that come with used boats…transom and stringer rot, fuel tanks, outboard issues and such. Not to mention it takes 22 gallons of fuel for a basic trip, so a bigger boat gets pricey to operate real quick. I like the idea of a foldable or removable bow. As I think about it, there are a lot of boats here that are modified to add some level of weather protection. Plus it will be a fun project with my son. Thanks for the solid advice
If you're good with the downfalls of major modifications, then your second-to-last sentence may by the most important reason! But I'd really caution you against doing anything with the steering.

A canvas bow cover will offer some protection, but it won't stand up to a large/heavy wave coming over the bow. You'll need something substantial. It's been done before and even some manufacturers offer a bow cover. I've seen wakeboard boats that have bow seating also coming with a fiberglass bow cover. Plywood may be an option, but gotta think about the attachment. It's gotta be secure enough that a wave isn't going to flip it off and send it into the cockpit to take someone's head off. Turn snaps are maybe an option... but you'd need to use thinner plywood. Would still need some solid support underneath, though. Replacing the existing snaps (or adding in addition to the existing snaps so you don't lose that functionality) with some kind of blind hole fastener like a jack nut or rivet nut (although I've never used a riv nut on fiberglass and don't know how "hard" it's going to pull against the back of the glass ).
 

Halfhitch

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I understand that you like the boat and want to keep the performance and dependability you feel with that hull, but...... I think it would be a huge mistake to do what you are talking about, and you will eventually regret it. Just my $.02

Sell the boat as is and buy what you need. If you violate the design and function of the boat and sell it after you realize your mistake, it will sell for maybe half of the unmolested boat.
 

glacierbaze

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If I were going to try to accomplish what you are suggesting, I would forget about snaps, and focus on the two low bow rails as my anchor points.
One option is to remove them, and install stainless rings, or some other fastening hardware in the existing eight holes.
The easiest solution is to just have a heavy canvas cover made, an inch or so inside the rails, with four or five straps sewn along each edge, that go around the rail and buckle back into themselves. I would extend the cover forward, to the cleat in front of each rail, to give it a firm anchor to prevent it sliding backwards, and to cover the front edge of the seating area more
A hard bow, whether by design, or by adding a plywood or other hard cover, transfers the wave to the windshield if you really stuffed the bow. I’m not sure that opening windshield is designed to take that force.
Keep in mind this is just a suggestion, not my recommendation. I had the 22 foot version of that boat for 10 years, and took a lot of spray, but never a wave over the bow. My main concern would be how to quickly get rid of that water, if that unfortunate event did occur. I had a notched transom, how is your boat set up?
 
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DennisG01

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Not a bad idea using the bow rails. Some kind of support would still be needed - more than a pole or two, I think. Maybe a couple cover support slats? Maybe secure them to each other and then the center bow cleat, as well?

Assuming his boat is the same as mine, the scuppers are floor level and go directly through the transom (no hoses - just holes drilled through the transom).
 

glacierbaze

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My 22 Tournament had one round hole in the motor well, and 2 deck drains through the transom. I wouldn't want to have to watch and wait for them to clean a wave from the deck.
 

PointedRose

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Great point in focusing on water outflow in the event. Maybe upgrade the bilge pumps while you’re thinking about it.
 

DennisG01

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I did not know that!
I didn't either till I found a 192 for my parents. I was assuming I was going to be changing the scupper hoses... I was VERY pleasantly surprised to find out I didn't have to! Bonus! The only "little" project I had to do was reinforce a transom that had gotten some water in it through the bang cap. But, hey, that's pretty much to be expected when buying an older Grady, right? ;)
 

Willy-C

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Stuffing the bow with a 190 Tourney results is getting soaked right over the windshield even without the bow snap cover, BTDT. (don’t ask why I know:mad:). And not sure about the 192 but the 190 has 4” approx lip under the splash well to mostly clear off the self bailing deck, but anything over that lip sends the overflow directly in to the bilge under the splashwell, then hope the bilge pump is working proper.
 

DennisG01

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Stuffing the bow with a 190 Tourney results is getting soaked right over the windshield even without the bow snap cover, BTDT. (don’t ask why I know:mad:). And not sure about the 192 but the 190 has 4” approx lip under the splash well to mostly clear off the self bailing deck, but anything over that lip sends the overflow directly in to the bilge under the splashwell, then hope the bilge pump is working proper.
Concerning my comment above about "no" bilge. The 192 has that lip as well. I totally forgot about that when I responded above. So, YES, a 192 DOES have a bilge where a large influx of water would find it's way into. SORRY FOR THE MISDIRECTION ABOVE.