Cockpit light replacement

fishlips

Active Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2013
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
Points
1
I’m looking for info on purchasing a replacement light fixture for my 282 sailfish. It’s the cockpit courtesy light that’s mounted to the bottom of the hardtop storage lockers and has separate switches for the courtesy light (red/white) and spreader lights. The plastic mounting plate is damaged at both bolt hole locations.700C9A15-FAE1-4BFE-BF2E-069ECCA95710.jpeg C7E49878-7440-4781-859C-857F3210F0E7.jpeg
 
Is the only reason to replace it because of the damage? Use a SS or nylon fender washer to span the hole. Or find a sturdy piece of plastic floating around the house somewhere and cut it to fit... and old phone case, for example. Or rotate the housing and create new holes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Halfhitch
I agree with Dennis. No need to replace it if the only problem is the oversized holes. Fixin stuff always feels better than replacing.
 
Is the only reason to replace it because of the damage? Use a SS or nylon fender washer to span the hole. Or find a sturdy piece of plastic floating around the house somewhere and cut it to fit... and old phone case, for example. Or rotate the housing and create new holes.
Thanks...good tip on the repair option, I go that way. Seems like individual replacement switches can be found but the courtesy / spreader combo housing is tough to find.
 
I want to replace mine also, but I want to go with LED so I will be patient until they come on the market. I am in the process of changing all the lights to LED in my Marlin.
 
Here is a crappy picture of what I did to replace the white plastic Grady red/white dome light with spreader light switch built in. I bought the AquaSignal 16601-7 LED red/white with stainless bezel from Defender. I bought a toggle switch with 2 connections and the rubber boot at West Marine. The package listed the hole size for the switch. I drilled a hole in the trim ring and mounted the switch in it. Works perfect and looks great.I added a better picture today. Old light is at the bottom.
25505E96-6CB8-4A1F-A406-0BC24A013C96.jpegD70B3BF0-B7DE-446A-BBD9-36D531FA848A.jpeg26B7FF20-C48C-49D5-9B14-D2B27D458875.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I just bought a Grady 330 With the same issue with the light. Why do the screw Mounts break like USMM shows in his pic. I thought the former owner was ham handed trying to dismount or change a bulb And broke the fixture, it’s but it appears to be a mounting plate issue as it hangs about a half inch from the electronics box. I can’t get the lens off to uninstall it either Though both screws appear to have been broken free from the mounts but I still can’t free the light from the Box. I figured I’d repair it so not trying to force anything. Any insight as to how I can access mounting screws?
 
When I installed one of those lights on my hardtop I was a bit stymied also. I found that the lens over the bulbs is removed by sliding the tip of a small flat screwdriver under the edge and slide it around the perimeter till it bumps one of the tabs that lock it in place. Keep doing this till you find all of them. Seems like there are 4, it's been a long time. Then carefully flex the lens carefully in such a manner so as to disengage the tabs without breaking them. Once the lens is off remove the bulbs. You will then be able to remove the aluminum heat shield/wire guard. Once it is out of the way you will see all the wire connections and mounting bolts. Don't overtighten when you replace. If yours is broken around the mounting screws from overtightening you can get quick set epoxy at Home depot and either glue the pieces back if they are intact or overlay a piece of other suitable material over the openings and drill holes for the screws. That's how my light was constructed but that light has been around for decades I believe and no doubt has had more than one redesign. Good luck.
 
Last edited:
I’m looking for info on purchasing a replacement light fixture for my 282 sailfish. It’s the cockpit courtesy light that’s mounted to the bottom of the hardtop storage lockers and has separate switches for the courtesy light (red/white) and spreader lights. The plastic mounting plate is damaged at both bolt hole locations.View attachment 10286 View attachment 10285

You could rotate the light 180 degrees, re-drill new holes for the switches and patch the old holes.

When I'm confronted with a project like this I try to put the exact same part back in. Don't turn a project into bigger one trying to make something else fit. Unless you don't like the current setup.

Also if you need switches I have another post on the forum that tells you where to get them.
 
Mine just broke on my 228 I could fix the holes but my switch was failing so I called Grady but they couldn't find it? The guy took my number and said he would get back to me that was 3 days ago. I'm thinking of wiring my spreader lights to a Aux. switch.
 
You could rotate the light 180 degrees, re-drill new holes for the switches and patch the old holes.

When I'm confronted with a project like this I try to put the exact same part back in. Don't turn a project into bigger one trying to make something else fit. Unless you don't like the current setup.

Also if you need switches I have another post on the forum that tells you where to get them.
Please share your post, I'm in need of new switches and dome light on my 228
 
On my 1997 268 Islander there are two switches on the dome light. The dome light switch . Off - dome light WHITE on - off - dome light RED on. The other switch is for the spreader lights Off - On.

The switch frequently burns up under the load of regular spreader lights. Higher amperage switches are available from Digit-Key. I would suggest going to LED spreader lights too.

My spreader light switch went out too. I found them at DigiKey.com - great price - order a couple of them for spares. Same vendor part that OEM used.

512PB-ND $1.94 Spreader light switch (SPST 10 amp)
522PB-ND $2.52 Dome light switch (SPDT 2 amp) << Digit-Key shows this as a $12.00 part now.

 

Looks like there is an alternate for the 522 (523) and it is $3.08. They also sell the rubber boot (532PB-ND) for the switches.

Thanks for the info.
 
At this point I have a big investment in this style of overhead light. I plan to keep them. Over helm, in cabin and in the enclosed head. I need to order some boots. Good find! Also make sure the 523 works the same way the as the 522.
 
Last edited:
On my 1997 268 Islander there are two switches on the dome light. The dome light switch . Off - dome light WHITE on - off - dome light RED on. The other switch is for the spreader lights Off - On.

The switch frequently burns up under the load of regular spreader lights. Higher amperage switches are available from Digit-Key. I would suggest going to LED spreader lights too.

My spreader light switch went out too. I found them at DigiKey.com - great price - order a couple of them for spares. Same vendor part that OEM used.

512PB-ND $1.94 Spreader light switch (SPST 10 amp)
522PB-ND $2.52 Dome light switch (SPDT 2 amp) << Digit-Key shows this as a $12.00 part now.

Thank you
 
The 523 does not look right. It shows as SPDT on-Momentary.

The 522 is SPDT on-off-on. This is what you want.

The 532 boot is perfect!
 
The 523 does not look right. It shows as SPDT on-Momentary.

The 522 is SPDT on-off-on. This is what you want.

The 532 boot is perfect!
I'm not seeing how to order the 522? Just the 523