Cockpit Scupper Access

[Fishtales]

I’d like to swap out the drain lines and install the new style scupper drains on my Marlin during layup.
I’d like to cut an 8 inch hole on the interior sides of the eurotransom. On the starboard side this would be just behind where the aft door rests when open above the scuppers for best access. I plan to install an 8 inch Becksom screw in plate when done.
Has anyone done this?
How thick is the glass in this area?
Is there sufficient access to allow removal and installation of new hoses on the thruhulls on both sides?
As I recall, I can access the floor drains on the starboard side thru the aft deck plate - after removal. Should be ok on this side.
I don’t believe there is access to the port side drains. I think I need to remove the battery switch panel and then will have access. Can anyone that did this work answer questions and if this is possible to do this way. Finally open to any other ideas folks have.

 

[Fishtales]

TTT. Anyone?

 

[Pat Hurley]

I saw where someone cut access in the deck just outside the tuna door and installed a plate ( that wouldn't be my first choice)

 

[el jefe]

I did this job about a year and half ago. I put the access holes in front of the swim ladder on the starboard side and on the port side centered. I used 8" Beckson plates, screw in, that I got from LFS Marine. I bought the new style cockpit drains from Vero Beach Grady. My original drains were the plastic ones with the bar across the center and they degraded after 15 years. The access to replace the drains and hoses is one of the few design flaws on the boat with no ability to access a thru hull fitting. I know have access to the internal of the transom on both sides and I have had no water leakage problems with the screw in plates. I am attaching a few pictures including the core piece. Pretty thick build.
The internal shot is from the starboard side. Hope this helps.

 

[Fishtales]

Thanks for posting. I was thinking of cutting them on the vertical sides as opposed to the horizontal area that you cut. Do you know if there is access to the thru holes if done this way?

 

[Angler Management]

Following. I need to do this, and thinking of replacing the hoses at the same time. It appears both are really difficult to access, especially Port where the hose goes through a bulkhead into a foam filled compartment. Ugggh.

 

[Late Again Grady]

If you boat is pre 2004 and has a live well in the transom (port side), it is fairly easy to remove and access the scuppers and drains from there. I'm not the biggest fella in the world and it worked for me . Access hole on the starboard side is about the best you can do.

 

[Fishtales]

I ordered two 8" Beckson deck plates and (4) of the new style drains. Best price on the latter was $55 from replacementboatparts.com. They were $95 on ebay and $70 at Marine Town plus 10% tariff. I recall these being around $40 a pop but like everything.... LGB.
I've got the 8 SS hose clamps. Just need to identify the 1 1/2" hose to buy and the lengths required. Will get her done before the snow flies.

 

[Pat Hurley]

…. Take pic cha’s, pretty please !!

 

[wspitler]

I ordered two 8" Beckson deck plates and (4) of the new style drains. Best price on the latter was $55 from replacementboatparts.com. They were $95 on ebay and $70 at Marine Town plus 10% tariff. I recall these being around $40 a pop but like everything.... LGB.
I've got the 8 SS hose clamps. Just need to identify the 1 1/2" hose to buy and the lengths required. Will get her done before the snow flies.

Do you happen to have a part number on the stainless steel drains? Thanks in advance

 

[Fishtales]

Everybody has their own stocking part number.
best to look at the pics.

 

[Fishtales]

Some updates as I prep.

Got the 8" Beckson Deck Plates (smooth center/almond color). The package says to draw a circle using the ID of the plate as a template and then cut the rest out with a reciprocating saw. I can see why after measuring the ID... The inside diameter (ID) is 1/4" greater than a standard 8" hole saw, which seems odd to me. I was hoping for a quick clean install, I guess not. I don't have power on the hard so I'm going to use the 8" hole saw and grind out a little more material with a Kutzall rotary burr with a battery powered drill.
Got the (4) new style deck drains as well as a tool that enables the SS tops to be tightened easily into the nylon housing and (16) SS Ideal-Tridon hose clamps. Will use (2) clamps per connection.

Received info for the 1 1/2" hose. I asked GW about the length of the hose as I want to have everything in hand when I start. Initially I thought I'd have to measure the hose after removal and get the hose after. The hose length provided is for GW for the 2006 Marlin. I doubt it changes for 300 boats from 2004 forward, but I'd check with GW if you do this job. Supplier is Marine Products, but I think any high quality marine or automotive hose will would work fine. The 1 1/2" hose is used on the (4) scupper lines and the aft fishbox. Lengths are as follows:
Aft Fishbox: 36"
Stb Forward Scupper: 21 1/2"
Stb Aft Scupper: 30"
Port Forward Scupper: 43"
Port Aft Scupper: 47"

I was surprised to see the length variation, must be due to routing (which I have not investigated). Maybe someone that did this job can chime in?
I'm going to do the (4) deck scuppers as these are my primary concern due to thru holes being near the waterline. After reviewing the condition of the hoses and fishbox access, I will consider the fishbox and potentially others if the hoses are in poor condition.

Took some measurements for the hole saw cut and I think if I go through the vertical side wall of the liner on sides of eurotransom, I can access the (4) thru hulls to install hoses and clamps. If my memory is correct, the starboard side will be fairly easy. There is decent access to the cockpit drains and hose lengths are short. The port side will be more difficult. I don't believe there is a clean sightline from thru hull to scupper. I'm hoping I can connect the new hose to the old hose at the thru hull end and slowly pull the old hose (thus new hose) to the scupper and then connect both ends. If this fails, it's going to be more difficult and painful for this older guy.

 

[Angler Management]

Good luck, Fishtales. Several of us are hoping you have great success with minimal issue.

You mentioned a tool that enables the SS tops to be tightened easily into the nylon housing... care to share what this is?

RC

 

[Fishtales]

Hi,
Here is some info on the tool. I got it at Marine Town. www.marinetown.com
It allows the top SS piece to be tightened or removed easily. I think you could make something up, but since I was doing the job, I figured why not get it....
0403436-G GRATE REMOVAL KEY FOR SPOKE TYPE 1 ea 54.00 54.00

 

[glacierbaze]

I redid my drains this week. This is the tool I used. They don’t have to be a gorilla tight.
Yeah, I know, those channel locks need the wire wheel, and then the tumbler. I found them in the bilge the last time I did pumps.

 

[TikiCharterFishing]

Thanks for posting. I was thinking of cutting them on the vertical sides as opposed to the horizontal area that you cut. Do you know if there is access to the thru holes if done this way?

You might be looking at a rotated view. That fuel/water cap is not on a horizontal surface.

 

[Fishtales]

You might be looking at a rotated view. That fuel/water cap is not on a horizontal surface.

I don't think so if I'm looking at it correctly. I agree the water cap is not on a horizontal surface. It appears the deck plate is installed on a horizontal surface if I'm viewing it correctly.

 

[Meanwhile]

I am thinking of following your lead. I'm looking forward to lots of photos. Thanks for posting this issue.