controls need replacement

[FLWhaler]

Long story short. Launched the boat Saturday. Backed off the trailer spun around throttled up and it would only do about 7mph. Bumped controls back and forth etc. still no luck. Raised the motor and reved it up and dropped the motor got the boat up on plane and seemed ok. headed back to the dock to pick up the family only to find out I now have no reverse. Shut the motor off and nearly rammed the dock. Son in law saved the day pushing me off. Got it home watched control cables on the motor while someone moved the throtle controls and it moves very little. Ok now the question 704 control box and cables or what? Pretty frustrating first trip of the year. Oh well it's a boat right.

 

[seasick]

First check the attachment points at the motor where the cable sheaths are fixed. In addition check that the shift rod is turning when the controll is moved. If the motor is not running, do not force the shifter into gear if it is hard to move. Have somone rotate the prop while another person shifts the control arm. ( ignition OFF!)
Was something taken apart like the control?
The fact that the boat only did 7 mph doesn't help unless you also state if the revs went up but the speed didn't. That is a different issue.
It is unlikely that both the throttle and shift cables would fail dramatically at the same time. Of course they could corrode slowly and you don't notice until they actually break in the core.

You need to do more testing to see if the cables are moving as well as answer the question about engine revs during the slow speed.
It is possible that you have lower unit issues

 

[FLWhaler]

Disconnected the shit rods and throttle cables from the motor. Still seems stiff to move the control arm. The cables aren't moving much either when moving the throttle leaver. On the motor the gas moves pretty easy but how hard should the control portion be to move? It seems harder to move than I would have expected. Tonight’s project is to put it in neutral and start the engine and try forward and revers by manually moving the part on the motor itself.

 

[seasick]

An estimate on how far the throttle cable should move when the control is moved from neutral to the extreme end is about 1 to 2 inches. Do a test with the shift overide enabled ( the button on the helm control that allows the throttle to be activated without the shift function

You didn't answer my question about the engine revs when the boat couldn't make speed. Did they go to normal range or were the revs low when the throttle was moved?

 

[FLWhaler]

An estimate on how far the throttle cable should move when the control is moved from neutral to the extreme end is about 1 to 2 inches. Do a test with the shift overide enabled ( the button on the helm control that allows the throttle to be activated without the shift function

You didn't answer my question about the engine revs when the boat couldn't make speed. Did they go to normal range or were the revs low when the throttle was moved?

Seemed normal range I could rev it up trim it down and take off at full throttle.

 

[FLWhaler]

Tore control box open looks like it’s a cable issue. Cables disconnected from motor and control box are really hard to move. Any zip ties I need to be made aware of before trying to pull them through on a 2003 228?

 

[Hookup1]

The cables don't last forever. Plan on replacing all four. They are only $70 or so each and if you have pulled the binnacle you are most of the way there. You need to determine the length though. You need to look at the cable ends but never sure which ends are marked. Mine were 2' different side-to-side. Don't make a project out of it -get the lengths off the cables -done right done once.

https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/throttle-cables.31638/#post-207907

 

[Ky Grady]

When you replace them, don't go cheap. Get the high quality ones, way ahead in the long run.

 

[Ky Grady]

Hook,,,, single outboard, only two cables.

 

[seasick]

Seemed normal range I could rev it up trim it down and take off at full throttle.

I don't understand. You originally stated that you couldn't go fast and now state that the motor can be reved and you can take off at full throttle.

I am not sure what your problem is but if you are going to replace the cables, two pieces of advice. When you pull the old cables out. tie a small diameter rope to the loose ends so that after the cables ate pulled out, you have a drag line to pull the new ones. The cable ends are fatter at the helm so usually you pull out from the helm and reinstall from the helm, pulling from aft.(In reality you will probably have to pull from under the deck to the stern and then push the control ends up through the helm area.

The most important thing is to note and take pictures of the internals of the control box when you open it and also keep in mind that some bushings can fall out. There are several options when connecting the cables at the box and only one is correct.

 

[Pfu]

Don’t mean to hijack this thread but being the most current have ask. Are the control cables in a conduit shared with other cables/wires? Want to pull all four at once if possible.

 

[seasick]

Don’t mean to hijack this thread but being the most current have ask. Are the control cables in a conduit shared with other cables/wires? Want to pull all four at once if possible.

Generally yes and sometimes the rigging tubes are packed. Pulling 4 at once may be tough. The drag line that is pulled when you pull out the old cables should also be pulled back when you pull new cables so that there is always a rope available for the next pull. When done leave a rope in place for the next time you have to pull say a transducer cable. You will thanks yourself.
With respect to pulling more than one cable at a time, one trick is not to tape the end together at the same point. One cable end should be secured to the other cable about a foot or so from the first cable's end. That minimized the thickness of the assembly. Using a cable pulling lubricant can also help in tight situations. In a pinch, soapy water will do.
Some pulls are easy and some are miserable.
Have fun!

 

[Hookup1]

Pull them one-at-a-time!

The way I did it was I threaded a plastic bushing I got from Lowes, screwed the cables together and pulled the new ones thru. Worked well but it does create a long stiff section where the cables join. You need to be careful to pull as straight as possible.

The old cables will be marked with the length on one end. Don't guess on length - find out what is in there now and get the right lengths. My parts supplier does lots or repowers. What he doesn't have in stock he can get the next day. Nice if you don't have to deal with shipping.

 

[FLWhaler]

Well after multiple orders and cancelations I found out that the manufacture in Japan has the Yamaha II cables on back order. Found the Seastar extreme at west marine I guess that will be my new cables. Pulled one cable out last night there are some zip ties near the stern but pretty easy to get to. Will pick these up today and hopefully be back on the water next week.

Sites-WestMarine-Site

West Marine

www.westmarine.com

 

[Hookup1]

Don't guess on the cable length. The cables are marked on one end - no telling which end.

 

[seasick]

The Seastar Extreme would be my preference

 

[FLWhaler]

Think I found the problem. Oh well old cables are out and new ones are in. Any suggestions on how to cram all the stuff in the rubber boot back in it. Seems to be a PIA so far.

 

[seasick]

The trick to cramming things back in is ( maybe too late) to take a picture or make a sketch of what was in what space in the bushing before pulling out the cables
Otherwise, just keep trying different arrangements. I had a case where I just cut some of the spacing nibs to make a bigger space. I couldn't get all the cables and hoses back in. In some cases, when new fuel lines are installed, the outside diameter of the new fuel lines are larger than the orig.

 

[FLWhaler]

Ok all is back together I have forward and reverse in my drive way and feel like the throttle is close to where it needs to be. I won't know that until it's in the water and tested. Thanks for the input. Not sure what a cable replacement would have cost me but I love doing my on repairs as much as possible. I did realize at 64 I can't squeeze into the bilge like I used to but I can still try. Found zip ties on the rubber boot to hold everything in place can be your friend. If anyone has any suggestions on correcting the throttle before putting it in the water please chime in

 

[Pfu]

Generally yes and sometimes the rigging tubes are packed. Pulling 4 at once may be tough. The drag line that is pulled when you pull out the old cables should also be pulled back when you pull new cables so that there is always a rope available for the next pull. When done leave a rope in place for the next time you have to pull say a transducer cable. You will thanks yourself.
With respect to pulling more than one cable at a time, one trick is not to tape the end together at the same point. One cable end should be secured to the other cable about a foot or so from the first cable's end. That minimized the thickness of the assembly. Using a cable pulling lubricant can also help in tight situations. In a pinch, soapy water will do.
Some pulls are easy and some are miserable.
Have fun!

Best to pull from console or engine? Going to do this over next two weeks.