Corrosion of F225 engine block

[Halfhitch]

These are pictures of the exhaust mating surface of the block on my 2004 Yamaha F225. I talked to one guy near where I live and he claims he can have it welded and machined. What do you guys think. I am skeptical because I don't read about this being done. This situation breaks my heart because the engine has only 200 hrs and is like new otherwise.

 

[Legend]

Had this problem last winter and ended up replacing engines with new F250's. My brother in-law also the same issue last winter and his mechanic told him he could repair by using a high heat epoxy. He opted for it and had a flawless summer. I have heard of welding too but no first hand experience.

 

[G243]

I'd be inclined to try the high heat epoxy. Not saying the weld repair isn't a viable option because it may be. Talk to the shop that has done this and see what they say. Your only other options are to repower. If you are really concerned about being able to run far offshore then perhaps a repower is the best option. Near shore? Patch it and run it until it fails.

I keep getting an overheat alarm on my Yamaha F250 at idle. I feel your pain. I need to pull my powerhead as soon as I can work it in my schedule.

 

[max366]

I think this level of corrosion at 200 hrs is outrageous and shame on Yamaha. I had the exhaust fix on my twin F225s at about 350 hrs. It's just really bad design and metallurgy.
Please check your thermostat housing and where it connects onto the block. The copper tstat corrodes the aluminum block and, in my case, right though the block and saltwater squirted into the intake- required a new powerhead. My starboard engine also had the corrosion but I caught it in time and coated the internal surfaces (after vigorous cleaning) with 5200 and after 2 seasons, the 5200 is tightly adhering to the block. Once again, really poor design and metallurgy by Yamaha. Turns out they added an anode to the tstat housing in 2006 but wouldn't you think this would have been picked up in the original design?
Good luck with the approach you take. The high temp epoxy (or perhaps high temp RTV?) should seal fine IMO.

 

[Fishtales]

That stinks.... How are the mid sections? Do you have a lot of other work that needs to be done? The problem is that if you have to do the mid sections and the other 'recommended' work, you are into it pretty deep from a cost perspective. With that few hours, maybe a weld or epoxy, but you really need folks to level with you so you don't start throwing good money after bad. Good luck with your decision. This stuff is never easy and even if successful it will always be in the back of your mind.....

 

[loubeer]

This spring I had both 2003 225’s get hit with the corrosion issue at 1500 hours. Not happy but Yamaha does have repair kits available to correct the problem. Kit costs @ $700 per motor. The kit is impressive with a lot of replacement metal, gaskets, etc. I am confident ordering the parts individually would be a lot more expensive than the kit cost. Of course, there is still the issue of labor to install the kit. I opted to face up to the cost and feel pretty good that I have another 1500 hours of life, hopefully more, in the motors that are otherwise bullet proof. Also, when I’m 60 miles off shore, I have the peace of mind of knowing that critical cooling system is operating like new. That means a lot to me.

 

[HMBJack]

Ask around and find a good Aluminum Welder (likely the guy you already spoke to).
Your engine can totally be repaired.
I have seen much worse than yours be welded and machined to a perfectly flat surface.

I agree that at 200 hours that is a disappointment. Your 2004 engine must have sat, and sat, and sat some more, for a very long time in just the right environment for that amount of corrosion to develop.

No worries, you'll fix it with the right aluminum welder.
After the mid section rebuild, your 225 will be as good as new. Then give your welder a nice $ tip.

 

[Halfhitch]

Ask around and find a good Aluminum Welder (likely the guy you already spoke to).
Your engine can totally be repaired.
I have seen much worse than yours be welded and machined to a perfectly flat surface.

I agree that at 200 hours that is a disappointment. Your 2004 engine must have sat, and sat, and sat some more, for a very long time in just the right environment for that amount of corrosion to develop.

No worries, you'll fix it with the right aluminum welder.
After the mid section rebuild, your 225 will be as good as new. Then give your welder a nice $ tip.

Thanks for that vote of confidence in the rebuild process. I know in the heavy equipment world that I worked in for many decades we repaired some things that were much more "long gone" than this little low-pressure joint. If you look at the first picture of this thread you will see some sand packed in the water jacket right at the corroded mating surface. The owner ran in the shallows on the way into the marina and pumped a lot of sand into the system, then idled up to the dock and turned it off. The marina claims to have flushed it but it didn't dislodge the sand plug. It was dry stacked and that salt laden sand sat right on that joint for the biggest part of a year. I think that started the corrosion of that joint.

I am going to talk to a machinist today to make sure his mill is large enough to cover the bottom of the block and if so then I know a welder extrodenaire myself that can weld it. I had him weld a Honda outboard head for me that pretty well convinced me of his ability. He is a retired NASA welder, welding all kinds of exotic metals. He worked the last couple of decades at Cape Canaveral before the big shutdown of the shuttle. He seems to know his business. What concerns me the most I think is if they want the block completely undressed. That would mean a ton of work. My memory would need photo-backup for sure.

 

[drbatts]

Corrosion is probably the biggest killer of these engines. As stated above I would also check around the t-stat housing because it is the other common place that seems to be problematic. As far as welded repairs go I have heard about it being done but cannot comment on anything beyond that. I would just be careful dumping a lot of money into a older engine.

 

[Halfhitch]

I had the motor advertised locally on craigslist for $3k. I was getting no interest so was starting to plan on repairing it. I had located a machine shop and a welder and was to drop it off at the welder the next day when a guy called and offered me $2k. Now he's got the problem and I get to go motor shopping! I'm looking at the Yamaha F200 4 cyl. I'm not finding any posted prices. Every outfit says "call for pricing"

 

[Ky Grady]

I had the motor advertised locally on craigslist for $3k. I was getting no interest so was starting to plan on repairing it. I had located a machine shop and a welder and was to drop it off at the welder the next day when a guy called and offered me $2k. Now he's got the problem and I get to go motor shopping! I'm looking at the Yamaha F200 4 cyl. I'm not finding any posted prices. Every outfit says "call for pricing"

I'm seeing MSRP of $18,345 for 20" and $18,740 for 25"

Boats.net showing 25" for $15,095

Also check out seedealercost.com

 

[Halfhitch]

Thanks Ky Grady, I will check that out.

 

[Ky Grady]

Not saying that's what you'll be paying, but that gives you an idea.

I have a quote from the people I use for my Yamaha work for a new 4.2 25" F250 digital, motor price of $20,395 which is lower than seedealercost.com. I'd get with your trusted business that will be doing your work and see what they can do for you. Full install is at $26,215 which includes motor, digital controls, new tach(keeping my original style gauges), rigging labor, taxes. Haven't discussed trade yet but they are the ones that did my exhaust work so they have seen the inside of my motor. Hope to get a decent trade value which will further reduce my cost.

 

[chrisk]

I got rid of my F225 before the corrosion became an issue. Replaced it with a 250 VMax SHO. Amazing difference in performance. You are in SW Florida. Contact KG at Ingmann Marine in Pt. Charlotte. Best deal I found and great after the sale service.

Chris

 

[Halfhitch]

I got rid of my F225 before the corrosion became an issue. Replaced it with a 250 VMax SHO. Amazing difference in performance. You are in SW Florida. Contact KG at Ingmann Marine in Pt. Charlotte. Best deal I found and great after the sale service.

Chris

Funny you should say that Chris. Yesterday my wife and I went to the Port Myers boat show and met Gary Ingman and he gave us the info to contact KG. I guess repowering is his main job. Their shop is only about 15 miles south of me so it's a good fit for future work too. Thanks for the vote of confidence in their fairness.

John

 

[Halfhitch]

We went to Ingman Marine yesterday and pulled the trigger on a new 4.2 liter Yamaha 225. Supposed to get it rigged the week after Thanks giving. First brand new motor for me ever!

 

[Ky Grady]

Congrats!!! That will be nice.

If you don't mind, what was your out the door price? Curious of it for comparison to the 250 I'm considering.

 

[Halfhitch]

It was $18,029 with mechanical controls and keeping my same gauges.

 

[Ky Grady]

Thanks.

Pretty sure I'm going digital but keeping my gauges, so I'll be a bit higher and also 250 and I understand that.

 

[Halfhitch]

This guy said the F250 mechanical was 800 bucks more and the command link gauges are 900bucks. I didn't ask about the electric model.