Trying to find someone that knows rough cost to have the cockpit floor re gel coated with the diamond pattern non skid on an 03 Marlin?
Cost of gel coat
- Thread starter sneakattack
- Start date
Best way is going to be to call around for some quotes. This type of work can vary GREATLY from one area to another (your signature doesn't show your location). Count on it being in the thousands, though.
Have you though about painting the deck with a non-skid paint? It's easy to do, will look good, will last a decent amount of time and is very easy to re-apply when needed. Tape off and paint JUST the non-skid area for a nice look. Use a different color (grey or tan always looks nice) if you want.
Have you though about painting the deck with a non-skid paint? It's easy to do, will look good, will last a decent amount of time and is very easy to re-apply when needed. Tape off and paint JUST the non-skid area for a nice look. Use a different color (grey or tan always looks nice) if you want.
I'm no expert, but I believe that the "diamond pattern" on our cockpit floors is established in the forms used to build boat, then gelcoat is first sprayed into form followed by fiberglass. Not really sure if it can be duplicated from the outside in, but maybe somebody knows.
You're pretty much correct. But there are companies that make rubber molds - think of "stamped concrete" - and it will make sense. It takes effort to do this, though - especially on a large scale.
Edit: Oh, some people will make their own molds, too. Go look at the first post in the "Tips" section of this forum... you never know what info is available till you look!
Edit: Oh, some people will make their own molds, too. Go look at the first post in the "Tips" section of this forum... you never know what info is available till you look!
SkunkBoat
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Its a pain. You have to sand off the old diamond. It has to be pressed in while the gelcoat is wet. Doing an entire deck is really a pain.
There are other ways to get a non-skid into new gelcoat...with texture sprinkled in or by glass bead blasting....just not diamond pattern.
Paint is easier and easier to fix later.
Some people have had success with various truck bed liner coatings.
Or if you are bent on spending money, SeaDeck.
There are other ways to get a non-skid into new gelcoat...with texture sprinkled in or by glass bead blasting....just not diamond pattern.
Paint is easier and easier to fix later.
Some people have had success with various truck bed liner coatings.
Or if you are bent on spending money, SeaDeck.
And that is likely the "easiest" of all options. Peel-n-stick, baby! Or, move up to a more traditional looking/feeling "teak" (but still plastic) like Plasdeck. This is Plasdeck that I installed on a previous boat:
FYI, when I installed the windlass (only had a hawse pipe, prior), the hole for the windlass is (of course) offset compared to the centered hawse pipe. Which means I either had to fill and replicate the non-skid, use a starboard block-off adpater plate, or lay the teak down to cover up the area of the hole that I filled. I really wanted to do the teak thing, so guess what I told my wife would be "easiest"
But, then, if you've read this post to this point, you already know the answer!
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From a practical standpoint, I see some fishing boats with those rubber mats that have holes in them.
A quick google: http://www.rubbercal.com/rubber-mat/boat-deck-mats/eco-drain-interlocking-rubber-tile.html
Toothpick 10
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The link below is for an Islander rebuild on THT. Around post 70 he discusses making a mold and repairing his large floor hatch with the diamond pattern.
https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/875163-2001-grady-islander-268-rebuild-thread-4.html
https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/875163-2001-grady-islander-268-rebuild-thread-4.html
The cost to re gelcoat the entire boat(repairs excluded) and it was $6000-$8000. The gel coat on your boat is looking chalky and faded. If the gel coat is in good condition with no major cracking or crazing, the job is relatively straightforward—clean and prepare the surface, apply an epoxy primer, sand the primer, remove the sanding residue and then apply the topcoat.