Cracked block?

Jacktrop99

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I just want some answers about my motor because it’s going to get down to 29 in a day. Do yaul think my block will crack or is everything fine, if not what do I need to do to protect the motor and possibly the hull.
 

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Not a lot of info there. Where are you? State...tidal water...lake? water temp?
Appears you have an outboard.
Assuming you are in the water and the water is not frozen yet.
Are you expecting ice-over for an extended period?

Best case... pull the boat, let the motor drain in down position...don't sweat.

second choice.. put the motor down in the water which is probably 40degrees or more..leave it down..it will match the water temp
We do this every November and still go striper fishing...

If you get skim ice its not a problem

If you are looking at a prolonged ice over, pull it asap or you are stuck....
 

leeccoll

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As Skunk said,
If you have it out of the water and trim engine down it will be fine.
I use my boat during the winter months and keep her outside in a dry storage marina.
It freezes every night, and it is no problem for the engines and hull.
Motors drain well after use but you have to trim them/it down, or water in the block will freeze.
 

Jacktrop99

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As Skunk said,
If you have it out of the water and trim engine down it will be fine.
I use my boat during the winter months and keep her outside in a dry storage marina.
It freezes every night, and it is no problem for the engines and hull.
Motors drain well after use but you have to trim them/it down, or water in the block will freeze.
The boat is on a dry stack and was wondering how I drain the motor I have only ever flushed it and done basic things but it has never gotten this cold here in nc
 

seasick

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As mentioned, a little more info ( model motor etc) would help but the general rule is to have the motor tilted down, in or out of the water in freezing temps. More importantly, if you have a fresh water tank, livewells or bilges that usually get water from rain, melting snow etc. you may have a risk of freezing. Fresh water tanks should be drained, then treated with RV type antifreeze and that solution run for a bit through the plumbing. You may want to disconnect hoses and drain/blow out standing water.
Note that anything stored on the boat that can freeze , will freeze if it gets cold enough.
 

Doc Stressor

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You'll be fine. There is nothing on your motor that will freeze and as long as your freshwater tank is not completely full it won't crack even in the unlikely event that the water completely freezes.

The only damage I ever had during freezes was to the water pumps in both the boat and my truck camper. Just remove the clear bowl with the strainer to relieve pressure and you will be good to go.
 
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Jacktrop99

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As mentioned, a little more info ( model motor etc) would help but the general rule is to have the motor tilted down, in or out of the water in freezing temps. More importantly, if you have a fresh water tank, livewells or bilges that usually get water from rain, melting snow etc. you may have a risk of freezing. Fresh water tanks should be drained, then treated with RV type antifreeze and that solution run for a bit through the plumbing. You may want to disconnect hoses and drain/blow out standing water.
Note that anything stored on the boat that can freeze , will freeze if it gets cold enough.
Yeah it is only getting down to 29 over one night and back up to 40 and it’s on a dry stack all of my live wells and what not have no water in them but I will shoot a little antifreeze in a couple spots or maybe I’ll just run it before night comes
 

DennisG01

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"Draining" typically applies to inboard/stern drive engines. An outboard drains by gravity - as long as it's vertical, it will drain.

However, 29* means nothing - not cold enough for long enough for it mean anything.
 

Jacktrop99

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"Draining" typically applies to inboard/stern drive engines. An outboard drains by gravity - as long as it's vertical, it will drain.

However, 29* means nothing - not cold enough for long enough for it mean anything.
Oh, I was unaware of that thank you
 

seasick

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You'll be fine. There is nothing on your motor that will freeze and as long as your freshwater tank is not completely full it won't crack even in the unlikely event that the water completely freezes.

The only damage I ever had during freezes was to the water pumps in both the boat and my truck camper. Just remove the clear bowl with the strainer to relieve pressure and you will be good to go.
I seem to remember reports of some 4 strokes that didn't completely drain when tilted down resulting in freezing or did I dream that?

Although 29 degree seas may not cause freezing, one thing to consider is that we leave motors down when in the water during in colder temps because previous rain water or sleet/melting snow can fill up the hub and lower exhaust ports on the lower unit if tilted up. That water is fresh, not salty and will freeze at 32 degrees. As mentioned, aluminum is a good conductor and the drive casings are aluminum. It isn't all that difficult to crack a lower unit by freezing.
 

DennisG01

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I seem to remember reports of some 4 strokes that didn't completely drain when tilted down resulting in freezing or did I dream that?
No, I think you are correct. But I think it was certain V8 models... 300HP, maybe 350HP? I guess I made an assumption that his '03 wouldn't be that big on a 22' boat? Something about small cooling passages that could get blocked easily by salt. I would imagine that since he's dry stacked, he's also flushing after every use.

Jack, you should add your engine model to your signature.
 

Doc Stressor

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Freeze cracked blocks has really only been an issue with inboard engines. There are some people who leave outboards down in the water during freezes in order to protect the lower unit, which doesn't drain completely when the engine is tilted up. Personally, I don't think that this does much. Unless the lower unit leaks badly and is filled up with water, it won't freeze crack. The impeller can freeze if the engine is tilted up, but it thaws out after a few minutes when you lower the engine into the water.

Outboard cooling systems are open systems. There is no way that all the water won't drain out if the motor is stored in a vertical position with the boat out of the water. Yamahas drain completely even it they are tilted since they are designed to be flushed when tilted out of the water. Hondas need to be vertical for flushing and draining. But I still think there his little chance of enough ice forming in the water jacket to do any damage.

When I lived out west fishing the same areas as leeccoll, I stored my boat outside and fished all winter long with sub-freezing temperatures in the morning. The one part that would ice up since it didn't always drain completely was the tell-tail hose. It would often take 10 or more minutes of running before water would start to flow from the pee hole. That never did any damage though since the hose is rubber and can handle expansion of ice without breaking.
 
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Ky Grady

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Biggest issue I've seen with a tilted up outboard in the winter is the bearing carrier for the prop shaft will get pushed out and crack the housing from water freezing in it. It has happened.

If you store you boat outside and motor is tilted up, even if you drained it, snow and rain can get in it and freeze when temperatures drop. Either store all the way down or cover your hub during the winter if you live in cold climates.