Cracking around bolt - level of concern?

[blynch]

Hi All- long time boater but new owner of a 1994 226 here. The boat was repowered in 2013 by the prior owner with an ETEC 200HO. I've notice some hairline cracking around the bolts through the transom. Transom lools and feels solid otherwise, as far as I can tell. Boat hasn't been inspected but was bought at an "imperfections expected" sort of price. How critical of an issue do I have? Is there anything recommended to seal the cracks to prevent water intrusion?

 

[Fishtales]

You're going to have to do some investigation inside the boat. If no cracks, water stains or flex on the transom with weight on the motor, you can "V" cut the crack and fill with a marine product like MarineTex. You'll need to watch the area closely.

 

[Punch53]

In 2013 someone may have over-tightened the mounting bolts. Maybe one of those transom strengtheners is in order.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71Ty-wDkCVL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

 

[glacierbaze]

use a framing square, or a short level, and check to see if the bolt has caused an indentation in the transom, or whether it is still flat. If indented, the bolt may well have been over tightened. The transom may also be soft from water intrusion. You said bolts, so it is more than one spot. The crack should be ground out to see if it is only in the gelcoat, or if the problem goes deeper.

 

[Fishtales]

I like that bar... Good tip.

 

[PointedRose]

West systems epoxy six10 product hardens very hard. Dries kind of yellowish though. If you take that bolt out eventually, you can put an Allen wrench or bent nail in a drill to remove any rotten core material between the fiberglass skins and refill the void area with solid epoxy then redrill the hole. Six10 isn’t penetrating epoxy though it’s thickened epoxy so need to make sure any void gets fully filled, but it will be stronger and more or less a permanent fix.

 

[seasick]

If the transom were solid, It would take a lot of overtightening to compress it. Also note that the crack is not very close to the bolt. If the bolt were super tightened, all the adhesive would have been squeezed out and it don't seem tp be the case. It looks to me like there may be a soft section.
One thing I would not do is grind and glass the crack without knowing what is going on.

 

[Fishtales]

prob need to bounce the motor and see if there is flex in the transom first, maybe make some small test holes into the core to examine it and then decide your plan of action.

 

[blynch]

Thanks all. Have gotten some Youtube education on how to grind with a Dremel and patch with Marine-tex. If I can verify that transom is adequately solid, that will be the plan. If not, sounds like a professional fix may be in order.

 

[PointedRose]

Thanks all. Have gotten some Youtube education on how to grind with a Dremel and patch with Marine-tex. If I can verify that transom is adequately solid, that will be the plan. If not, sounds like a professional fix may be in order.

I’d suggest west systems six10 over marinetex - it’s a lot stronger. Marinetex comes in white though and is also an epoxy product.

btw the dremel tool is so cool!

 

[Lt.Mike]

In 2013 someone may have over-tightened the mounting bolts. Maybe one of those transom strengtheners is in order.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71Ty-wDkCVL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

Agree with both points 100%.
nothing to panic over. Just mount a transom plate with a little 3M 5200 behind it to seal the cracked gel coat.
I would mount a transom plate whether it looked like it needed it or not. It’s cheap insurance.