Cutting open anchor locker access?

[Marcus]

Hi all,
I have an ‘84 Sailfish 255 and I want better access to the anchor locker.
Im considering cutting the bulkhead wall below the existing access hole. See pics.
I would likely expand the existing access hole downwards to the horizontal floor.
Has anyone done this?
Thanks.

 

[seasick]

You have to be careful with respect to the drainage of water in the locker. If you current arrangement drains water to an outside through hull ( clamshell fitting perhaps), you need to make sure that the lower edge of the access panel is higher than the drain. If it is lower, the water will drain into the cabin.

 

[DennisG01]

Adding onto the above... I would avoid cutting it anywhere even near the level of the existing drain (again, if it's a direct overboard drain). It's not uncommon for them to get clogged and then the locker starts to fill up.

Other than that, it's just cutting - which is super easy.

 

[seasick]

I had this happen, the drain plugged and the locker overflowed. It did not drain into the mid bilge at first. Instead it soaked the cabin cushions and them ran down one side where it puddled. What was surprising was how much water my anchor line would hold when wet.

 

[Fishtales]

Not a fan of the proposed mod. I think your going to open yourself up to more mold in the cabin and potential water in the cushion area due to wet rode. Just my 2 pennies.

 

[Marcus]

Thank you for your responses.
I’ll check the elevations, if I do go ahead with the cutting.
Also, what should I cut it with? It’s thin fibreglass.
I have a good jig saw (and drills) is there a glass specific blade I can buy?

 

[DennisG01]

Can you even get a jig saw in there? Looks awkward. But use a medium-fine blade to help avoid chipping the gel. Taping the gel helps.

I'd use an oscillating tool.

 

[seasick]

Thank you for your responses.
I’ll check the elevations, if I do go ahead with the cutting.
Also, what should I cut it with? It’s thin fibreglass.
I have a good jig saw (and drills) is there a glass specific blade I can buy?

You should use a downcut blade. That is a type of blade where the teeth cut on the down stroke and not up stroke as a normal blade.
If the blade is not carbide and depending on the thickness of the glass, the blade will wear out quickly.
An angle grinder with a diamond blade will work faster if you have room to use it. You will still have to use something else to cut the rounded corners.
An oscillating saw might work also depending on the thickness of the panel.