Deck drain hose & thru hull replacement

Islander268GW

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In the 1998 model I was fortunate enough to be able to reach the starboard side through the removable plastic bin under the hatch. I think Scott's vertical hole below the transom door would work on the 1998 islander as well...would all come down to a preference and ease of access. One thing to note is that by cutting the hole in the floor behind the door, I had access to the plastic thru hulls that drain from the transom well to the one next to the trim tab actuator.

Either way, prepare to get fiberglass splinters and bruises. My advice is to cut the hose off of the brass fitting then it should pull off of the plastic deck drain.

I attached some additional photos.

On a side note, after sealing and replacing the rub rail screws, I still had some water coming in (not as much). I taped off and sealed the top of the rub rail and this did the trick. I'm guessing at some point I'll need to remove the rail and reseal the joints or something (for now this will work).
 

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Cam Ena Sue

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Currently going through this process on my 1995 GW Islander. Wanted to get some input on what you guys went with for the new thru hulls. My boat will be kept in the water for 6 months of the year so I wanted to do bronze - I am having a tough time sourcing the 1.5" thru-hull with a built in scupper feature though.

The existing thru hulls had a scupper screwed on the outside of the boat - not possible with the bronze thru hulls. Pictures below:
 

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mleads310

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Yep ok, that's what thought. I searched and found the same part numbers, yet no one stocks them. I called perko and they said only a dealer can order them. Which is stupid. I ended up getting the full stainless from grady and haven't installed them yet because I'm still not comfortable putting stainless at the water line. So I'm either going to raise my thru hull Holes 2" or I'm going to try to find those perko scuppers somehow.
 

Cam Ena Sue

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West Marine did say the can order them - but its $175 a piece...Was hoping to find a better deal but might have to bite the bullet on this one.
 

ROBERTH

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Glad that Eddie was a big help. I have had great service from them as well other than old stuff (Hardware/Trim) that they used to use, they have no idea who even the supplier was. However, that was over 30+ years ago!

I would have chosen that spot also just aft the door on the flat area which is just above the hoses. Should be able to reach .Not sure what the other side looks like but bet it is more complicated.

Eager to see your pics! Have you made the cut yet?
 

Neckbone

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I have a 1996 Islander and had the same issue about access. Instead of on top, I put the access on vertical portion which put me closer to the hose connections. Also, got rid of those little Grady scuppers and replaced with Gemlux which are larger and the top can be removed for easy cleanout if necessary. Also went with Gemlux thru holes with duckbill inserts. Very happy with this setup.
You have PM, I am currently working on port side drains/scupper/thru hulls...soon to be tackling the starboard side. Had a few questions about where you cut your access plate under the rear door
 

Ekea

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keep in mind that if you plan for it and it will work out, you can cut holes at locations that would be good for speakers rather than deck hatches. two benefits as obviously, you get better sound from the stereo, but it also looks better