Deck hatch screws: '86 227

gw204

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I'm going to check out an '86 227 this weekend that sprung a fuel tank leak at the end of last summer. The shop that services the boat removed the deck hatch to check the tank, but repair efforts never took place and the tank hatch was put back down and not resealed. My main concern with this is whether or not the screws that hold the hatch down penetrate into the stringers and if leaving the hatch unsealed would have allow rain water to get to the stringer cores.

I have seen the guts of a late '80s 204 and this was not the case, so I believe the 227 should be the same, but I figured I would in hopes of getting confirmation from others familar with the Seafarer of that vintage.

Thanks.
 

Tucker

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Where St. Leoarndo gw?? Not likely that Grady ran deck screws into stringers, have you checked??I know they dont' seal the deck screws and water will get past them.
 

Curmudgeon

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Can't speak to a '227', but on a '225' the hatch cover screws go into a lip molded into the cap. Easy to seal the screws, but the edge still needs attention. GE Silicone II Kitchen and Bath 'Almond" ... :wink:
 

gw204

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It's about 35 miles south of Annapolis.

On my old '93 Sailfish, the deck hatch screws did run down into the stringers. When I pulled the hatches on that boat I bored out the holes and backfilled w/ thickened epoxy. After redrilling, I sealed the screws w/ 4200. The 227 I'm going to be looking at is 4 hrs away and I do plan to check when I get there. I was just hoping to get an idea of whether or not it MIGHT be an issue.

On the 204 I disected last spring, the lip supporting the tank cover was inside the stringers by 2"+. It was enough for me to bond some solid glass bocks to the underside of the lip to provide some extra meat for the screws to bite into. I am expecting/hoping for the same on the 227.

IMG_8572.jpg
 

bfrank

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My '86 Tournament 190 is the same way. The wood in my cover was soaked but the screws went through that lip just like gw204 shows.
 

Curmudgeon

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Be careful with those fiberglass blocks, you may have to trim the lip to get the fuel tank(s) out, if that time hasn't come yet ... :wink:
 

bfrank

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Curmudgeon said:
Be careful with those fiberglass blocks, you may have to trim the lip to get the fuel tank(s) out, if that time hasn't come yet ... :wink:

We wondered if that was possibly the reason why parts of mine seem a bit boogered.
 

Curmudgeon

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Could be. I've read of more than one where Grady got the size 'almost right', but needed trimming to R & R a bgad tank. Check your tank access and you should be able to read a label near the filler, then you'll know the age of your tank ...
 

gw204

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Curmudgeon said:
Be careful with those fiberglass blocks, you may have to trim the lip to get the fuel tank(s) out, if that time hasn't come yet ... :wink:

The tank had already been replaced in that particular boat and I trimmed the blocks flush with the existing opening. So, if the replacement tank ever does need to come out, they won't cause any interference.