Deck Scupper drains on 228 Seafarer

[Peahead]

The deck drain at the stern of my 2000 228G Seafarer is leaking/dripping a bit under the deck/floor where it attaches to the floor drain fitting that intern is hose clamped to the scupper drain hose. I can't see under there but I took photo with iphone. In attached photo I think I can see hose and clamp all good but up where the black elbow screws into the threads of the white floor fitting/drain you can see drips of water.

Anyone removed the hose clamp, that black 'elbow' and replaced a complete floor drain? Just not sure how to get in there to remove everything as its all done by reaching through stern seat opening and in under floor deck by feel with no visual. This seems it be very difficult area to work on ? What tools best used ? Do I have to unscrew that white drain nut/ring under the floor deck first or can the floor drain be removed from topside of floor /deck ?

Any tips would be helpful .... my first thought was I need to hire someone who has done this before but wondering maybe there is an easier way to do this than it seems.

Thx

 

[DennisG01]

Nope. There is no easy way. It's exactly as you are imagining - unless you start cutting access holes, there is no "magical" way to make this easier... other than hiring someone! Those black hoses are very stiff and are NOT easy to work with.

I'm not sure I would call that hose clamp "good". Besides, it should really be double clamped. Yes, the white retaining nut needs to be removed... after the hose is removed... after the black elbow is removed. Me? Cut the hose and replace the whole thing - along with re-bedding the scupper. Much easier than trying to slip it off.

 

[Peahead]

Thanks for that DG01, Yeah I like the idea of cutting and replacing the hose along with all the fittings once I get to the job. The hose clamp does have a bit of surface rust but is sitting well and is good and snug this just good to know so that I have some time before I have to get to the job or locate someone to do it.
Re double clamping; it's been my understanding that this is best practice however for thru-hulls above the waterline not really necessary (?) ..... and surely Grady White would have double clamped those hoses if it was necessary :wink:
There are some that take this a step further though and say that there should also be a seacock shut off on any thru-hull withing 6-8" of the waterline or lower (that would be just about every smaller boat with self bailing/scupper drains) :jaw

 

[DennisG01]

I'm not saying this is what has happened in your case, but what happens with that "surface" rust is you end up with a weak point or small crack somewhere along the band. It will still "feel" tight... until it's too late.

Yes, above the waterline can "legally" be single clamped. BUT, let's say that hose came off... how far above the water line would it remain? Don't judge "best practices" based on what a certain manufacturer does or does not do.

Now, in reality, that hose - even without a clamp - is not going to just slide off... hence the reason they are such a bear to deal with. But if that elbow broke... that would actually be more likely.

 

[Peahead]

"Don't judge "best practices" based on what a certain manufacturer does or does not do"

Agree fully and thanks again. I was actually being sarcastic about Grady not double clamping (hence my wink) - I like my Grady for sure and think overall its built well but there are a few things on my 228G that are far from perfect , that's for sure.

EDIT ....BTW I noticed you are not too far from where I got my 228G, at least relatively speaking and considering it now lives in
Vancouver, Canada. Shipped my 228 from Newburg NY on the Hudson River.

 

[DennisG01]

I was actually being sarcastic about Grady not double clamping (hence my wink)

Ah, gotcha! I don't often pick up on things like that through a forum. In person - sure - but via a forum sarcasm and such often goes right over my head.

 

[Peahead]

lol
btw just added an edit above FYI

 

[DennisG01]

Small world!

 

[Peahead]

I am gonna bring this post back as I am probably going to tackle this deck drain and scupper hose replacement job myself as I have to haul the boat out anyway for a few things soon.

Grady customer service suggested I just cut the old drain and elbow as flush to the underside of the deck as I can and then pry out drain from topside of deck floor rather than attempting to unscrew the drain 'nut' from under the floor. I got advice here cutting the hose too so all good there.

Grady gave me the new drain part number 11-369 which now has the drain and elbow incorporated as one part rather than a separate elbow screwed into the drain ( as I think mine is presently for my 2000 year 228G seafarer and looks that way from the photo I included earlier in this thread)

New part:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Grady-White-Cab ... 253?_ul=AR

Grady Cust.Ser. suggested using 5200 on new drain (for topside on deck and under deck floor) then just "hand tighten" the drain 'nut' under the deck floor (which clamps drain to deck floor). They said this would be tight enough with the 3M 5200 providing the seal and hold when it cures( it was suggested I likely couldn't get a tool under the floor deck to tighten the 'nut' more but that it wasn't necessary )

Couple questions from all this ...

1) Has anyone done this job on a 228/226/232 or similar Grady deck/floor drain set up ? Tips?

2) Grady part # 11-369 is of course available through Grady dealers such as the link above but this part would be supplied to Grady by a companies such as Perko, Beckson, or TH Marine etc. (like all their other parts) ....does anyone know if this is a common deck drain type/size I could get anywhere? .... what specs it has so I can get a matching fit ? ...or if you know what company supplies this part to Grady ?

3) I plan on replacing the drain hose from scupper to the floor/deck drain with a more flexible reinforced hose but any ideas how i can get a screw driver to the hose clamps to tighten them where the hose attaches to the new deck drain hose barb under the floor deck?
I can reach in there to put the hose on but will be unable to see the screw on the hose clamp to tighten ? Perhaps my telescoping mirror :bang ??


Thanks!

 

[seafarer94]

Peahead,

I replaced my scuppers on my 226. Instead of using a screw driver I used a 1/4 inch drive socket to fit on the nut of the hose clamp. I took a hair dryer to heat the hose so I could bend it easier and they ended up sliding off, but sounds like you are going to cut it off. The only reason I didn't cut the hose was that when I got the new hose I had the exact length. For the floor I got a buddy and put a pipe wrench on the nut under the deck and was able to stick the handles of a pliers in the top side and was able to turn the scupper out that way. I just held with the pipe wrench and turned from the top side . While I had them out I also re-bedded the through hulls on the transom so I didn't have to go back and do the job again. I sprayed wd-40 on the new hose to slide on the hose barb easier. It wasn't the best job but it is doable.

I am not sure but I thought the parts that I got for the repair were from attwood. Mine was a 1994 though. Hope this helps some.

 

[Peahead]

Thanks seafarer - doing haul out this weekend/week for a transducer repair/replace , anti foul etc etc etc .... plan to tackle the floor drain re and re as well . Will let know how it goes and if I pulled all my hair out in the process
( whats left of it anyway
:shock: )

 

[Seafarer_Bob]

BTT as I'm preparing to replace the scupper hoses on my 2005 Seafarer 228 so looking for advice from someone who's tackled the job.
1) Parts - It looks like I'll need 1.5' of 1.5" reinforced hose for each scupper, is this something I can buy at west Maine by the foot or should I buy the part from Grady? I see references to an elbow but I didn't look at it closely and the boat is too far away to get eyes on it. Can I just use a length of straight hose or is that elbow required?
2) Approach - Can I get to it through the rear seat access or should I plan to remove the bait well?
3) It seems Grady likes to use 5200 and my research sounds like this will be a bear. Will I be able to get the old hose off without removing the floor scupper drain or should I just plan for it?
Option 1 MOP - remove hose clamps at both ends, cut hose in half with hack saw, twist off hose using channel locks, C clamp, vice grip.
Option 2 MOP - remove deck drain fitting, pry it off the transom fitting, and try to take it out with the hose attached or cut it in half if needed?

I know Grady recommends 5200 but after owning my last boat (Whaler Montauk 17') for 27 years I learned nothing on a boat is really permanent so unless someone can convince me otherwise I'll be using 4200 when I install the new hoses.

 

[seacern]

I need to do this same project on a 2006. Mine have a steady drip. Is there any update to this thread from someone who has completed the job? Thanks

As a follow-up- Amazon has this direct replacement sold by Taylor Marine in Milford, DE.

https://www.amazon.com/Grady-White-Cockpit-Floor-Degree/dp/B07XWNWT1D

It just happens that I bought my boat from the sister store in Ocean City. So, I called Taylor in Milford.

The 11-369 is a direct replacement, but...Grady also offers a stainless replacement that will be much simpler to install. The stainless has a straight threaded flange that screws into a plastic threaded elbow. I've ordered two and will follow-up with how the job goes. ...but, it appears that it will be pretty simple to fit the 90-degree elbow to the hose, position under the hole and then thread the flange from the top side.

Here is the stainless version- 11-547. The ad says 45-degrees, but it is a 90.

https://www.ebay.com/p/3009534955

It will be pretty easy to make a wrench to tighten the flange using the slots.

The tough part will be getting the threads to mate given the stiff hose.

 

[Ky Grady]

I need to do this same project on a 2006. Mine have a steady drip. Is there any update to this thread from someone who has completed the job? Thanks

As a follow-up- Amazon has this direct replacement sold by Taylor Marine in Milford, DE.

https://www.amazon.com/Grady-White-Cockpit-Floor-Degree/dp/B07XWNWT1D

It just happens that I bought my boat from the sister store in Ocean City. So, I called Taylor in Milford.

The 11-369 is a direct replacement, but...Grady also offers a stainless replacement that will be much simpler to install. The stainless has a straight threaded flange that screws into a plastic threaded elbow. I've ordered two and will follow-up with how the job goes. ...but, it appears that it will be pretty simple to fit the 90-degree elbow to the hose, position under the hole and then thread the flange from the top side.

Here is the stainless version- 11-547. The ad says 45-degrees, but it is a 90.

https://www.ebay.com/p/3009534955

It will be pretty easy to make a wrench to tighten the flange using the slots.

The tough part will be getting the threads to mate given the stiff hose.

I've done mine. Very happy with the new SS version.

 

[seacern]

Very nice. Any tips that you can share? Did you use 4200 to seat it?

I've done mine. Very happy with the new SS version.

View attachment 13653

 

[Seafarer_Bob]

I've done mine. Very happy with the new SS version.

View attachment 13653

Hey Ky Grady, looks great, who's the MFG and part number of that stainless drain?

Update: I attempted the repair Saturday before boating, figured a couple hours (famous last words...) one gentle tug and the existing drain fitting snapped like a toothpick. Lucky I found a direct replacement at West Maine T & H Marine on TH1992 ($31 ripoff). They only had one in stock but it allowed me to complete the repair and get out on the water.

T&H sells it for about $6 but before I go that route I think I'd rather bite the bullet and replace both with stainless.

 

[SmokyMtnGrady]

Hey Ky Grady, looks great, who's the MFG and part number of that stainless drain?

Update: I attempted the repair Saturday before boating, figured a couple hours (famous last words...) one gentle tug and the existing drain fitting snapped like a toothpick. Lucky I found a direct replacement at West Maine T & H Marine on TH1992 ($31 ripoff). They only had one in stock but it allowed me to complete the repair and get out on the water.

T&H sells it for about $6 but before I go that route I think I'd rather bite the bullet and replace both with stainless.

I did the same thing as KY 4 weeks ago. I called my Grady dealer and ordered it through them. Grady dropped shipped them to me . It was easy peasy. Honestly the hard part was getting the old scupper hoses cut and out especially off of the through hull fitting for the scupper drain itself.

 

[Doc Stressor]

Grady sources the stainless steel drains from Marine Town in Crystal River, FL. They used to be only business to business but they now will sell directly to the public. I picked up and installed a pair of drains back in March. They had a salesperson there who was the contact person for Grady. She told me that Grady specs a slightly different version of the SS scupper drain than the one listed in the Marine Town catalog. It lacks the check valve that prevents water from backing up into the cockpit. That's what they sold me. The one shown below may be useful for older hulls that have been repowered with heavier 4-stroke engines where water flowing in through the scuppers might be a problem. You should give them a call.

Scupper Drain with Check Ball

MARINE TOWN INC

PH# 352-564-1150

BTW, Marine Town is a great source for all types of high-end stainless steel hardware.

Marine Town 2020 Catalog

 

[SmokyMtnGrady]

Grady sources the stainless steel drains from Marine Town in Crystal River, FL. They used to be only business to business but they now will sell directly to the public. I picked up and installed a pair of drains back in March. They had a salesperson there who was the contact person for Grady. She told me that Grady specs a slightly different version of the SS scupper drain than the one listed in the Marine Town catalog. It lacks the check valve that prevents water from backing up into the cockpit. That's what they sold me. The one shown below may be useful for older hulls that have been repowered with heavier 4-stroke engines where water flowing in through the scuppers might be a problem. You should give them a call.

Scupper Drain with Check Ball

MARINE TOWN INC

PH# 352-564-1150

BTW, Marine Town is a great source for all types of high-end stainless steel hardware.

Marine Town 2020 Catalog

Doc, do you think the check valve ball would get clogged with deck debris being washed down? My scuppers will let water on the deck with some heavy people on the stern. I like the ones I got from Grady. They look sharp.

 

[Doc Stressor]

I think that is why Grady doesn't use it. Key West and other manufactures use the one with the ball and don't seem to have a problem. But they are mostly bay boats where fast draining may not be as important as on an offshore boat.

I guess you could always remove the ball if there is a problem.