I have Tie Down Engineering disc brakes on a Road King Trailer that have frozen up after 18 months of use and about 12-15 trips to the ramp. I am going to have to replace my calipers and will probably replace the entire brake kit because my bearings got so hot all the grease came out of 2 of them. Does anyone know of any "tricks" to use that will give me a longer life on my replacement calipers and/or do they know of a better brand that will give me a longer useful life? Where have they found is the best place to buy them?
DISC BRAKES FOR TRAILER
- Thread starter GTOMAN
- Start date
Switch to Kodiak and your troubles will be gone. My existing trailer for my Marlin is no longer a road trailer (the PO let it go). My previous trailers had tie down, one was a 2006 Venture bought new. that were problems all along, but never a severe failure as you describe. If for cost reasons you go back with Tie Down spend about $100 on a trailer wheel flush system and salt away after EVERY use.
Parthery
GreatGrady Captain
Second the notion on switching to Kodiak...there is a marked difference in quality between the two manufacturers...and not a huge difference in price for the replacement parts.
How big is your boat and do you have to (by law) have brakes on your trailer?
If not, you might consider an upgrade to you tow vehicle brakes instead.
That's a dilemma I'm having right now with the trailer for my 17' Mako. I will be towing with a Jeep Cherokee (they aren't know for their brakes). MD law doesn't require trailer brakes so I may spend the $$$ on a rear disc upgrade w/ slotted rotors and high performance pads all around.
If not, you might consider an upgrade to you tow vehicle brakes instead.
That's a dilemma I'm having right now with the trailer for my 17' Mako. I will be towing with a Jeep Cherokee (they aren't know for their brakes). MD law doesn't require trailer brakes so I may spend the $$$ on a rear disc upgrade w/ slotted rotors and high performance pads all around.
My boat is a 272 Sailfish that I pull with a 2500 GMC. I could stop OK on a controlled stop, but a quicker stop (and the law) require me to have some good trailer brakes. Based on the other replies, I am leaning to go with Kodiak. Has anyone ever tried installing a flushing system? I used salt away with a garden pump-up sprayer, but was not getting the solution to the insided of the caliper.
I can personally vouch for the Kodiak brakes. I switched from the bronze brakes that came on my Boatmaster trailer to the SS Kodiaks. I tow a 1993 230 Gulfstream from Atlanta to So. FL. and N. Gulf coast several times each year and the brakes haven't given me any problems in 2 yrs.
By the way, do you own a Pontiac GTO, GTOman?
By the way, do you own a Pontiac GTO, GTOman?
Garden sprayer is the way to go for disc brakes.
Be aware that there are two versions of the Kodiak brakes...all stainless and Silver Cadium (or something like that). I have the latter on both axles of my trailer and they are holding up fine, but then again I haven't dunked them that much.
Be aware that there are two versions of the Kodiak brakes...all stainless and Silver Cadium (or something like that). I have the latter on both axles of my trailer and they are holding up fine, but then again I haven't dunked them that much.
I have a 69 and a 67 GTO. That is why my Grady White is named MISS BECKY, best $100 I ever spent!
Are you sure it's your calipers and not the master cylinder? I've seen cases where the plunger in the master cylinder gets jammed from rust and won't return all the way.... ends up keeping pressure in the system.
These guys are in Delaware but you can order online. They are very popular in my area. They have both Tiedown and Kodiak.
http://shop.easternmarine.com/
These guys are in Delaware but you can order online. They are very popular in my area. They have both Tiedown and Kodiak.
http://shop.easternmarine.com/
I developed the brake drag problem on my Boatmaster with bronze discs after replacing the bearings. Turned out that the junk in the master cylinder & brake lines loosened up and blocked the MC orifice. Drained fluid changed MC and no more problems.
Parthery
GreatGrady Captain
Eastern Marine is a fun place to poke around if you need trailer parts. Right off 95 at the first exit inside DE from MD.
They do just fine on the mail order side, too. I've ordered from them and the items arrive quickly and as advertised.
They do just fine on the mail order side, too. I've ordered from them and the items arrive quickly and as advertised.
GTOMAN,
Awsome cars! I too, own a GTO but it's a 70' 400/4 speed/convert.
Between the 93' GW and the GTO it seems there is always something that needs doing. Good luck with your brakes.
Awsome cars! I too, own a GTO but it's a 70' 400/4 speed/convert.
Between the 93' GW and the GTO it seems there is always something that needs doing. Good luck with your brakes.
Kodiak Disc Brakes
Just finished installing Kodiak silver cadmium disc brakes on my Loadmaster trailer. I had Tie Down drums and realized that spending one nickle more on drum brakes was pointless. I chose the integral rotor/hub version because I wanted new bearings and seals and this is the easiest to install. I bought the kits on eBay from Custom Hitch & Trailer in Naples, FL. $120 per wheel. Eastern Marine was basically the same price. My local trailer guy told me Tie Down discs were "the drum brakes of the disc brake world." I had also bought a new set of Bearing Buddies and was told the existing PosiLube system (grease fitting in the end of the spindle) was better. It sends grease from the back (seal end) towards the front instead of the other way around for Bearing Buddies. The Kodiak kit comes with new grease caps for the PosiLube system. Very easy install except for removing the old drum system. The fire wrench came in handy.
Good Luck!
Just finished installing Kodiak silver cadmium disc brakes on my Loadmaster trailer. I had Tie Down drums and realized that spending one nickle more on drum brakes was pointless. I chose the integral rotor/hub version because I wanted new bearings and seals and this is the easiest to install. I bought the kits on eBay from Custom Hitch & Trailer in Naples, FL. $120 per wheel. Eastern Marine was basically the same price. My local trailer guy told me Tie Down discs were "the drum brakes of the disc brake world." I had also bought a new set of Bearing Buddies and was told the existing PosiLube system (grease fitting in the end of the spindle) was better. It sends grease from the back (seal end) towards the front instead of the other way around for Bearing Buddies. The Kodiak kit comes with new grease caps for the PosiLube system. Very easy install except for removing the old drum system. The fire wrench came in handy.
Good Luck!
Parthery said:
i 3rd. just make sure you flood them out with fresh water everytime you get back from the ramp.
Yep, X4 on Kodiak.
I have Tie-Down on a Roadking, it's pretty crappy stuff, although mine seem to be holding up this year. With 18 months on the trailer it got new pads, and the master cylinder was leaking so I complained to the factory and they agreed to replace it. How kind of them. They fired their customer service guy too (finally), I guess they got so many complaints. The guy was an idiot.
It took me about two weeks messing with trying to bleed the dang thing. I finally figured out you have to bleed the calipers from the top fitting. They are universal, so they work on either side, and have two bleed nipples. So depending on which side you have them mounted, you have to use the upper nipple to bleed them. The uppers were frozen on mine, so I was trying to bleen them with the lower nipple - NOT! I ended up swapping the calipers right to left and was finally able to get them completely bled out. Used about 3 quarts of fluid before I got it sorted.
They are marginal at best. I like the description that they are the drum-brakes of the disk-brake world - definately. If/when these go I'm going to look at a conversion to Kodiak. Saw a demo at a show and they are light-years ahead in design and quality.
Leaf springs are another PITA. They rust and eventually break down. Torsion suspension for a saltwater trailer is highly suggested. I'm going to replace my springs soon, fortunately they are fairly inexpensive. I found a source online and I think they were like $35 a set.
I have Tie-Down on a Roadking, it's pretty crappy stuff, although mine seem to be holding up this year. With 18 months on the trailer it got new pads, and the master cylinder was leaking so I complained to the factory and they agreed to replace it. How kind of them. They fired their customer service guy too (finally), I guess they got so many complaints. The guy was an idiot.
It took me about two weeks messing with trying to bleed the dang thing. I finally figured out you have to bleed the calipers from the top fitting. They are universal, so they work on either side, and have two bleed nipples. So depending on which side you have them mounted, you have to use the upper nipple to bleed them. The uppers were frozen on mine, so I was trying to bleen them with the lower nipple - NOT! I ended up swapping the calipers right to left and was finally able to get them completely bled out. Used about 3 quarts of fluid before I got it sorted.
They are marginal at best. I like the description that they are the drum-brakes of the disk-brake world - definately. If/when these go I'm going to look at a conversion to Kodiak. Saw a demo at a show and they are light-years ahead in design and quality.
Leaf springs are another PITA. They rust and eventually break down. Torsion suspension for a saltwater trailer is highly suggested. I'm going to replace my springs soon, fortunately they are fairly inexpensive. I found a source online and I think they were like $35 a set.