Dive ladder mount plate

[Tomasz]

Hi
Wondering if anyone had issues with a 3 step dive ladder mounting plate?
Recently it has started to get loose every time it’s get used the plate privets and digs into gel coat
I don’t have any access to tighten the bolts so was wondering if it would be possible to cut a hole
Depends where on side or on top
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks

 

[Legend]

have never had an issue with mine but cant you access it through the then access plate visible in the picture? nothing is easy on a boat!

 

[seasick]

You are probably going to have to cut a hole in the side of the motor well and install a deck access plate. The dive ladder plate needs to be removed, the condition of the fiberglass inspected and the underside of the mounting area also. Reinstall using a good amount of 5200 on the top and bottom. In addition, the bolts on the undersize may need larger washers or a backing plate well bedded with 5200. If you take that action, do not super tighten the nuts until the 5200 has had time to set up. With regular cure 5200, that would mean two days or so before really tightening the nuts. If you don't wait, you may squeeze out the adhesive.

 

[everwhom]

On my 330, my marina installed deck plates in the approx location shown below to provide access for replacing the deck drains and hoses which were starting to deteriorate. You might kill 2 birds with 1 stone and replace the drain hoses when you fix the swim ladder issue...

 

[Tomasz]

You are probably going to have to cut a hole in the side of the motor well and install a deck access plate. The dive ladder plate needs to be removed, the condition of the fiberglass inspected and the underside of the mounting area also. Reinstall using a good amount of 5200 on the top and bottom. In addition, the bolts on the undersize may need larger washers or a backing plate well bedded with 5200. If you take that action, do not super tighten the nuts until the 5200 has had time to set up. With regular cure 5200, that would mean two days or so before really tightening the nuts. If you don't wait, you may squeeze out the adhesive.

Thank you for your advice
What is 5200?

 

[PointedRose]

Thank you for your advice
What is 5200?

3M 5200 sealant

Amazon.com: 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 5200 (06535) Permanent Bonding and Sealing for Boats and RVs Above and Below the Waterline Waterproof Repair, White, 1 fl oz Tube: Industrial & Scientific

Buy 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 5200 (06535) Permanent Bonding and Sealing for Boats and RVs Above and Below the Waterline Waterproof Repair, White, 1 fl oz Tube: Cookware - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[Tomasz]

3M 5200 sealant

Amazon.com: 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 5200 (06535) Permanent Bonding and Sealing for Boats and RVs Above and Below the Waterline Waterproof Repair, White, 1 fl oz Tube: Industrial & Scientific

Buy 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 5200 (06535) Permanent Bonding and Sealing for Boats and RVs Above and Below the Waterline Waterproof Repair, White, 1 fl oz Tube: Cookware - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Great thanks mate

 

[seasick]

Note that unlike most caulks, 5200 is a strong and relatively 'permanent' adhesive/sealant. It intended for applications where you don't plan on removing the sealed parts. 3M 4200 is a similar product but is not as strong a bond.In general it is easier to take things apart if needed.
There are a few type of 5200, normal cure and fast cure. Fast cure will set up a lot faster than regular cure. That can be an advantage or an issues if you need time to assemble and position parts. Always read the labels.

 

[DennisG01]

You may be doing this blind with one hand - that's often typical in boat maintenance. Is there another access point from inside the boat? Removing a seat, reaching "up and under", etc?

Go with Seasick's second recommendation - use something like 4200 or the Boat Life products. Actually, just about any sealant is fine - you don't need an adhesive sealant here because it's mechanically fastened. In fact you DO NOT want an adhesive since that piece should remain removable.

Use nyloc's when you fix this.

 

[seasick]

You may be doing this blind with one hand - that's often typical in boat maintenance. Is there another access point from inside the boat? Removing a seat, reaching "up and under", etc?

Go with Seasick's second recommendation - use something like 4200 or the Boat Life products. Actually, just about any sealant is fine - you don't need an adhesive sealant here because it's mechanically fastened. In fact you DO NOT want an adhesive since that piece should remain removable.

Use nyloc's when you fix this.

I don't think the OP plan is to have to remove that bracket after it is reinstalled

 

[DennisG01]

I don't think the OP plan is to have to remove that bracket after it is reinstalled

Maybe not, but possibly the next owner might. Or... if he damages the bracket by accident he'd have to remove it. Plus, and I know that you know this, so I'm just mentioning it really for the OP... things on a boat need to be resealed every so often. 5200 is just the wrong thing for this application where an adhesive just isn't needed.

 

[seasick]

Maybe not, but possibly the next owner might. Or... if he damages the bracket by accident he'd have to remove it. Plus, and I know that you know this, so I'm just mentioning it really for the OP... things on a boat need to be resealed every so often. 5200 is just the wrong thing for this application where an adhesive just isn't needed.

We go through this discussion a lot on the forum regarding adhesives and sealants. Honestly, I really don't know what is best in some instances. For example, I think we agree that 5200 is appropriate for below the water through hulls.
I also feel that it is appropriate for backing plates. Dive ladder brackets? Hmmmm.I can argue both sides, 5200/4200 type adhesives and Life caulk types of sealants. The later can be removed more easily but probably flexes more under stress. That can be good if the fixture is subject to movement but if the fixture doesn't want to move, the adhesive will provide additional strength to the bond. I have a dive ladder on Myotherboat and it is subjected to very large forces when boarding. Using a sealant might be more prone to movement (twisting) than an adhesive like 5200.
If mating surfaces are likely to move in relation to each other, like in a deck hatch, I would use a caulk. If the part I am sealing may need routine maintenance, I would also lean towards a caulk.

So, chime in on your suggestions for the following:
Gunnel mounted rod holders
Hardtop mounting bases.
Backing plates in general
Hardtop VHF antenna base
Through hull transducers.
Fill fixtures, gas, water etc.
Deck plates
Pulpit to deck
Scupper drain tubes
Sea cocks
Engine mounting bolts.
Motor bracket to transom seal and bolts
Underwater light fixtures.
Things I missed.

 

[PointedRose]

Good summary from Seasick. 4000/4200 has more flexibility than 5200 is my understanding. This was a helpful summary for me.

 

[seasick]

Thanks but the list doesn't really help answer the question IMHO.
More to the point, what do you use for the items I mentioned?
Some apps are not obvious. For example when I mount or remount a bracket for a transom transducer I will coat the screws with 5200 or equivalent. 5200 is supposed to be 'permanent' but I have never had a problem removing a smallish screw installed with it.

 

[PointedRose]

Thanks but the list doesn't really help answer the question IMHO.
More to the point, what do you use for the items I mentioned?
Some apps are not obvious. For example when I mount or remount a bracket for a transom transducer I will coat the screws with 5200 or equivalent. 5200 is supposed to be 'permanent' but I have never had a problem removing a smallish screw installed with it.

Yes, so things like a cleat would be under load and strain and would have some ‘wiggle’ against the deck so 4200 with some flex would be better. Something like windows are not under strain, so those frames are ideal for 5200 to seal in.

 

[DennisG01]

This is, of course, my opinion - but it's also based on decades of being in the industry working on and around boats. By no means does that make my opinion more important - it certainly does not. Just clarifying that it does not come from simply spewing internet garbage from some boating forum without any real life knowledge to back it up. NOTE: This last sentence was not a knock on anyone responding to this thread!

So... where would I use 5200? Quite honestly, VERY few places. Anything that is primarly mechanically fastened, to the point where it is SECURE by such means, I would not use 5200. Anything that I could imagine needing to be removed in the future, I would not use 5200. In repsonse to your question, Seasick - there isn't anything on that list that I WOULD use it on. The hull to deck joint... yes, I would use it there as that is the primary means of attachment - the screws used there are secondary - at least for small repairs - there are other products that MAY be better and, honestly, I'd have to research 5200 to see if it's applicable.

It's a great product, but there really are very uses for it in real life.

 

[Tomasz]

You may be doing this blind with one hand - that's often typical in boat maintenance. Is there another access point from inside the boat? Removing a seat, reaching "up and under", etc?

Go with Seasick's second recommendation - use something like 4200 or the Boat Life products. Actually, just about any sealant is fine - you don't need an adhesive sealant here because it's mechanically fastened. In fact you DO NOT want an adhesive since that piece should remain removable.

Use nyloc's when you fix this.

Hi
I’m going to cut 4inch inspection port in the engine bay wall just enough to slip my hand through
Thanks for all your advice
Will keep you posted how I went
Thanks

 

[seasick]

Cut a hole the right size to install a deck plate. You may want to rethink the 4in if you have room for a 6 inch.

 

[DennisG01]

Cut a hole the right size to install a deck plate. You may want to rethink the 4in if you have room for a 6 inch.

Yes. If you can just as easily cut a larger one, do it. Maybe you even have room for a rectangular hatch? If you want, post a couple pics of the proposed area.

 

[Tomasz]

Cut a hole the right size to install a deck plate. You may want to rethink the 4in if you have room for a 6