Do the Zippers really have to be that dificult ?

rorkin

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Spent yesterday cleaning up the boat and setting up the canvas.
(228g hardtop). It is a royal pain to get the zippers started basically
because They all start in the corners and top of the hardtop frame.
You would think that they could be started at the bottom . I know that by starting at the top they would be less prone to opening up under load but given we are in the age of internet,gps etc you would think someone could design a way of securing the zipper at the top. Perhaps there is a simpler way to get them going but it eludes my fingers. It is not about sticky zippers.. Just access.
 
rorkin said:
Spent yesterday cleaning up the boat and setting up the canvas.
(228g hardtop). It is a royal pain to get the zippers started basically
because They all start in the corners and top of the hardtop frame.
You would think that they could be started at the bottom . I know that by starting at the top they would be less prone to opening up under load but given we are in the age of internet,gps etc you would think someone could design a way of securing the zipper at the top. Perhaps there is a simpler way to get them going but it eludes my fingers. It is not about sticky zippers.. Just access.
I went to Michael's and got bendable wire. Tied a loop through the zipper hole big enough to grab with my whole hand. Makes the job a whole lot easier.
 
I agree, a handle makes zipping up a lot easier. I used a coat hanger and a piece of wood.

To make the zippers easier to use, take a piece of waxed paper from your kitchen and rub the zipper teeth with it. Lubricates very nicely. On Mother's Day, I salute my mom for teaching me that trick many years ago.
 
I just had a new bimini top made and new zippers put on the side curtains. The maker told me to use chap stick to lubricate the zippers. I tried some on the old zippers and the difference was amazing.

Gary 89 Overnighter
 
The problem is not so mush a lubrication issue as it is getting the zipper started correctly. The non slide side has to be firmly inserted into the stop for the teeth to mesh correctly. Always hold the side of the window that doesn't have the zipper slide and then pull the slide. If you hold the slide side, there is a tendency for the first teeth to move and not mesh. You will be surprised how much better the zippers work.
 
seasick said:
The problem is not so mush a lubrication issue as it is getting the zipper started correctly. The non slide side has to be firmly inserted into the stop for the teeth to mesh correctly. Always hold the side of the window that doesn't have the zipper slide and then pull the slide. If you hold the slide side, there is a tendency for the first teeth to move and not mesh. You will be surprised how much better the zippers work.

In that case use a pair of pliers to hold both sides of the zipper and pull gently, when it starts moving O.K let go the pliers.


The chapstick thing, i never knew, learning something every day i guess.
 
I still think that a redesign of the zipper that starts at the bottom and is secured at the top ought to be looked at by the designers.

Perhaps this design makes it easier to deal with closing the snaps..


NOTHING ELSE MATTERS said:
seasick said:
The problem is not so mush a lubrication issue as it is getting the zipper started correctly. The non slide side has to be firmly inserted into the stop for the teeth to mesh correctly. Always hold the side of the window that doesn't have the zipper slide and then pull the slide. If you hold the slide side, there is a tendency for the first teeth to move and not mesh. You will be surprised how much better the zippers work.

In that case use a pair of pliers to hold both sides of the zipper and pull gently, when it starts moving O.K let go the pliers.


The chapstick thing, i never knew, learning something every day i guess.
 
rorkin said:
I still think that a redesign of the zipper that starts at the bottom and is secured at the top ought to be looked at by the designers.

Perhaps this design makes it easier to deal with closing the snaps..


NOTHING ELSE MATTERS said:
My zippers end at the bottom so that I can open the front curtains and roll them up if I want, while keeping the side curtains in place.
The back zippers also allow the rear panel to be rolled up. So reversing the direction of the zipper wouldn't be an option for me.
 
The tool is pretty good, but I can't believe they get $25.00 for the thing....
 
rorkin said:
I still think that a redesign of the zipper that starts at the bottom and is secured at the top ought to be looked at by the designers.

Perhaps this design makes it easier to deal with closing the snaps..


NOTHING ELSE MATTERS said:
seasick said:
The problem is not so mush a lubrication issue as it is getting the zipper started correctly. The non slide side has to be firmly inserted into the stop for the teeth to mesh correctly. Always hold the side of the window that doesn't have the zipper slide and then pull the slide. If you hold the slide side, there is a tendency for the first teeth to move and not mesh. You will be surprised how much better the zippers work.

In that case use a pair of pliers to hold both sides of the zipper and pull gently, when it starts moving O.K let go the pliers.


The chapstick thing, i never knew, learning something every day i guess.

I just realized your problem, i'm sorry. Looks like your zippers are backwards. Mine, on all my boats, start at the top and close on the way down, not up. Is that what you have?
 
The zipper mechanism itself is subject to corrosion, I spray them after cleaning up end of season with WD40. Never had a problem with stains or anything using WD40.
Same goes for zipper mechs on seat cushions, the salt destroys the white metal.

Will have to try chap stick (the generic brand) !