Does the Yamaha Speed gauge accept two fuel tanks?

[Alaskastreamin]

Hi guys. New to the forums.

Just picked up a 26' Islander with twin '95 150 Yamaha 4-strokes. This was an "as-is were-is" deal.
The main tank sending unit is plugged in to the Speed gauge on a pink wire. The auxilery tank had the sending unit wire cut right at the rear wiring chaseway near the batteries. I extended that wire up to the gauge and was about to put in a toggle switch then saw a pink w/ black tracer capped off coming out of the gauge harness next to the pink wire. Would this be for the aux. tank? With the power on, the mode and set buttons don't seem to affect anything. Gauge may be bad. It does register the fuel level in the main though. I have no manuals and thought I would ask here before heading to the Yamaha dealer.

I'll be posting more questions as I start going thru the boat getting everything up and running.

Before:

I re-gelcoated from the rubrail down and added a stripe in gelcoat.

 

[Legend]

Yes, my Sailfish 282 has two tanks. The tank senders are routed to a rocker switch at the cockpit. Simply flip the switch when you change tanks and it will work. It takes 20 or 30 seconds after you switch to give you the new tank level reading.

 

[Alaskastreamin]

I was searching last night and found the pdf manual for the gauges. The pink w/ black tracer is for the aux. tank. The bar graph will split into two graphs when hooked up.

 

[Andrew93]

The old school stripe looks awesome! What that boat used commercial before?

Did you re gelcoat the whole boat or awlgrip?

 

[Alaskastreamin]

The guy was a carpenter and hauled building materials to the islands. He also charter fished lightly.
I was amazed at the amount of putty they put in the corners of the hatch molds between the gelcoat and actual fiberglass. I understand the putty is a corner cutting method (literally) so the fiberglass doesn't have to bend into the corners. The problem is,.. it makes the edges very prone to breaking out and leaving a 1/2" "chunk" missing. My transom door and the hatch on the top of the transom are the worse. I will have to pull a mold off these and lay up new ones. I will use sheetrock "hot mud" to fill in the voids for the mold then lay up new ones properly.

There were enough dings and nicks on the hull that would be unsightly to me so a re gelcoat job was my only option. This is gelcoat. I found an additive you add to the gelcoat that makes it a "spray and walk away" finish. Just like a car paint job. To me, there was a little too much white so I added the blue stripe to break it up. I ordered a silver Grady decal to give contrast.

At this time I haven't done anything above the rubrail but pressure wash.

I had to replace both midsections and lower units due to corrosion. The powerheads are spotless and the block zincs were still in good shape but were replaced. Both trim tabs had pitting so I sand blasted and filled with JB weld for the time being.

I noticed after the battery switches are turned off, the switch panel stays illuminated. I have to flip off the master breaker at the battery panel to kill these lights. Also the Webasto looks like new but won't turn on. They have it crammed beside the helm seat and I cannot see the model number to look for a manual.

Just going thru the boat piece by piece getting everything up and going.

Oh yea,....the bathroom door latch assembly is missing. This leaves a factory clean cut U cut from the edge of the door. I will need to see what this latch assembly looks like so I can find a used one somewhere...

 

[Andrew93]

Think about starting a new post or retitling this one with the work you are doing. The gelcoat looks awesome and I am sure a lot of others will think so also!

The guy was a carpenter and hauled building materials to the islands. He also charter fished lightly.
I was amazed at the amount of putty they put in the corners of the hatch molds between the gelcoat and actual fiberglass. I understand the putty is a corner cutting method (literally) so the fiberglass doesn't have to bend into the corners. The problem is,.. it makes the edges very prone to breaking out and leaving a 1/2" "chunk" missing. My transom door and the hatch on the top of the transom are the worse. I will have to pull a mold off these and lay up new ones. I will use sheetrock "hot mud" to fill in the voids for the mold then lay up new ones properly.

There were enough dings and nicks on the hull that would be unsightly to me so a re gelcoat job was my only option. This is gelcoat. I found an additive you add to the gelcoat that makes it a "spray and walk away" finish. Just like a car paint job. To me, there was a little too much white so I added the blue stripe to break it up. I ordered a silver Grady decal to give contrast.

At this time I haven't done anything above the rubrail but pressure wash.

I had to replace both midsections and lower units due to corrosion. The powerheads are spotless and the block zincs were still in good shape but were replaced. Both trim tabs had pitting so I sand blasted and filled with JB weld for the time being.

I noticed after the battery switches are turned off, the switch panel stays illuminated. I have to flip off the master breaker at the battery panel to kill these lights. Also the Webasto looks like new but won't turn on. They have it crammed beside the helm seat and I cannot see the model number to look for a manual.

Just going thru the boat piece by piece getting everything up and going.

Oh yea,....the bathroom door latch assembly is missing. This leaves a factory clean cut U cut from the edge of the door. I will need to see what this latch assembly looks like so I can find a used one somewhere...