Double Fused Circt

[gbrackett]

I have a 1987 Tournament 19, purchased last summer. The boat was re-powered in 2010 and the wiring is at this point a mix of old and really old. I've just encountered my first issue with things not working, my fuel gauge, trim gauge, VHF radio and Depth Sounder were all wired to one switch, last weekend when I went to use the boat, flipped the switch and nothing came on. I started trouble shooting it, but the wiring is such a mess I've decided it will be easier to just re-wire the whole dash cleanly than to spend hours trying to figure out what is tied in where and chase it all down.

My question is right now the power comes up from the battery to a fuse block then goes to a second fuse in a fuse holder in the dash, then to the switch. I plan on replacing the old fuse block with a new one so I can break things out onto their own circuits, and label everything (nothing is currently labeled). Is there any reason to keep the two fuses in line, or can I cut out the second dash mounted fuse holder? I can't think of a reason to have both, but this is my first foray into marine wiring.

Thanks,

 

[Hookup1]

Just my opinion but I think it's foolish to "rewire" right now. You said fuel gauge, trim gauge, VHF radio and Depth Sounder were all wired to one switch. Get a voltmeter. Easier to troubleshoot when multiple things are wrong. It could be a bad switch or a corroded connector.

What was the last thing you touched? Frequently it's something you caused.

Get things working before you start cutting fuse holders out.

Start at the batteries. Make sure you have something around 12.8 volts DC. Check the battery switch. Check grounds on batteries.

Check fuse blocks. 12 VDC?

Lift switch panel and check. 12 VDC?

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

I started trouble shooting it, but the wiring is such a mess I've decided it will be easier to just re-wire the whole dash cleanly than to spend hours trying to figure out what is tied in where and chase it all down.

been there and done that, many times, so i understand and support your decision!

Basically:
You should have one thicker and correctly sized cable from the battery to the distribution/switch panel
This feed cable should have one 30/50A fuse near the battery to shut down power in a short between the battery and the distribution/switch panel on/inside the console.
The distribution/switch panel should have correct sized fuses for the device connected to each switch and you should put a switch for every device, including electronics, except the power cable of the electronics (Eco and/or chart plotter, stereo, etc) has already a inline fuse, then a second fuse is not needed.
However i would prefer (and did) cut off the inline fuse and used the fuse on the distribution/switch panel as this makes finding a blown fuse simpler than to have check distribution panel and inline fuses.

Battery ---> 30A fuse ---> distribution/switch panel with fuses ----> devices

There are companies who make and wire distribution panels after your design and ready to install,
one of them is New Wire Marine and they do a great job.

Chris

 

[Hookup1]

Owners Manual may help. Given it's size wiring shouldn't be that complicated.

There are wiring diagram for a 190 as well as color codes.

https://gradywhite.blob.core.windows.net/media/22278/1987-owners.pdf

 

[DennisG01]

My question is right now the power comes up from the battery to a fuse block then goes to a second fuse in a fuse holder in the dash, then to the switch. I plan on replacing the old fuse block with a new one so I can break things out onto their own circuits, and label everything (nothing is currently labeled). Is there any reason to keep the two fuses in line, or can I cut out the second dash mounted fuse holder? I can't think of a reason to have both, but this is my first foray into marine wiring.

Thanks,

It depends on how that wire from the battery to the fuse block is wired. Does that battery wire essentially bypass the fuse block and basically go right to the dash... or do you have a fuse in that block that then supplies power to the dash? If it's the latter, yes, you could eliminate the dash fuse.

Here's how I would prefer to have it as I absolutely don't like power going to the dash without a switch. Too easy to leave things on by mistake.

Run your new 8g dash wire from the load side of your battery switch. Put an inline, Blue Seas, resettable breaker within about a foot of the battery switch and then run the dash wire from there.