Drain plug seized
- Thread starter cobrapowersys
- Start date
The brass drain plug at the bottom of the transom?
For stuck threads I use PB Blaster and let it soak awhile.
I also use teflon tape when installing plug.
I'm surprised bronze to bronze would seize.
I'm in fresh water though.
Good luck.
For stuck threads I use PB Blaster and let it soak awhile.
I also use teflon tape when installing plug.
I'm surprised bronze to bronze would seize.
I'm in fresh water though.
Good luck.
I am also surprised that it is seized assuming a bronze plug and drain. If it is really tight, there is a danger of 'spinning' the whole drain fitting while trying to turn the plug.
The safest way to deal is to remove the screws from the drain flange and pry the whole thing out. Using a wrench or a vise, hold the flange while working the plug out. If it is really stuck, you may need to replace the whole drain fitting and plug.
It is also sometimes possible to get a channel lock to grab the drain fitting edge while still screwed to the transom and holding the flange while really wrenching the plug. You will probably make some gouges in the drain rim doing this.
If you have to remove/reinstall or replace use 5200 to reassemble use some Teflon tape when putting the plug in.
Good luck
The safest way to deal is to remove the screws from the drain flange and pry the whole thing out. Using a wrench or a vise, hold the flange while working the plug out. If it is really stuck, you may need to replace the whole drain fitting and plug.
It is also sometimes possible to get a channel lock to grab the drain fitting edge while still screwed to the transom and holding the flange while really wrenching the plug. You will probably make some gouges in the drain rim doing this.
If you have to remove/reinstall or replace use 5200 to reassemble use some Teflon tape when putting the plug in.
Good luck
Not sure if it is seized or not but it is so tight that I opened a opened end wrench to the point where the wrench now slips I will give it a go with a pipe wrench within the hour and let you guys know how it goes
one thing is for sure. I will definitly be using teflon tape this time. Is there a marine grade? or will regular pipe tape from HD or Lowes work?
I never looked for marine grade teflon tape.
The official name for that drain set-up is 'Garboard drain'.
Your old one looks like an ancient Mayan artifact.
Any water logged wood inside where assembly came out?
Suggest that you dry area and coat inside of hole with epoxy.
The official name for that drain set-up is 'Garboard drain'.
Your old one looks like an ancient Mayan artifact.
Any water logged wood inside where assembly came out?
Suggest that you dry area and coat inside of hole with epoxy.
no water logged wood from what I could tell. I think that is a great idea. Will coat the hole, then 5200 the new fitting. and thanks for the official name. saved me some time looking it up. And yea definitly some sunken treasure looking doo-dad...
I am not aware of 'marine grade' teflon tape either. I use teflon tape regularly at work, we prefer Laco Slic-Tite. It is thicker than most and has less of a tendency to tear apart as you crank things tight. With the Laco Slik-Tite, you only need two or three wraps at most.
I feel your pain. The EXACT same thing happened to me. I finally had to remove the whole flange and put it in a vise to free it up. I then put the flange and new plug back in with 5200, and so far so good. I wanted to replace the flange with a new one, but I noticed that the stock flange at my local supply place was just a little smaller than the original, and wouldn't match the existing screw holes. I will probably make it a winter project to find a new flange and put it on, even if I have to re-drill some new holes.
SwampGrizz
Savannah, Ga.
SwampGrizz
Savannah, Ga.
Be careful you don't remove some transom with the 5200. It's best for permanent installations, which I wouldn't consider a garboard drain to be. Use a sealant like 4200, in case it needs to be removed down the road ... :wink:
ROBERTH
GreatGrady Captain
Second that on the 4200! Just removed my drain plug to inspect. Sanded, polished it and rebedded with 4200. I think that is what the factory must use as it does come apart with some effort but is very strong. I redrilled new holes since one of the screws would not come out and broke off. No biggie. 4200 will seal all of it. Second that on the Teflon tape. The type for gas pipe is thicker if I recall. Check Lowes for it and it was Pink. Should help, or you can also use Blue Loctite which is removable, and will allow removal since if coated on the threads, will prevent corrosion and allow removal. Doesn't have to be really tight when re-installed, so just snug it up and should be fine. Most folks over tighten. I am guilty of that myself. :?
When was the last time you had it out? And where do you keep your boat? I would think you have some electric current straying where you dock your boat. Do your zincs get ate up fast? Just wondering, in the pic it looks like there's a lot of action happen on the metals.
Next time, maybe don't tighten the drain so hard. Also, there is a paste like waxy grease you can buy called LanoCote which is perfect for this sort of thing (as well as for slipping your out riggers in their bases). Lanocote allows you to remove these items without any hassle. Just my two cents...