I just bought a 2004 GW 232 Gulfstream. For some reason, the survey did not discover that the motor bracket is leaking water. From what I have been reading, this is a common problem. A GW authorized repair facility wants to re caulk the joint where it meets the transom. Will this be a complete fix or a bandaid? Has anyone tried putting a pump in there to keep it dry to avoid replacing the whole bracket or even just the nuisance factor of pulling the boat out of the water to drain it?
Draining the Drive bracket
- Thread starter bayrat
- Start date
VineyardGrady said:
if they have to re-caulk, they probably have to re-torq the bolts also. my water entry point was the inspection port on the top of the bracket. i removed and cleaned it, then caulked it very well on the re-install. i used one of the boat life caulks suitable for below waterline. that was that.
good luck, ron
When I bought my 225G, the bracket drain was nylon, and had been buggered beyond recognition. I removed it, and replaced with a bronze Garboard, cut and fit a gasket, used stainless screws. I replace the screws every couple of years, have replaced the gasket once in 7 seasons. Sooner or later the Springfield brackets are gonna leak, some would say that's to be expected and 'some' is OK.
Well, I didn't like the idea of saltwater riding around in my aluminum bracket, so I fabricated a hose with nylon end that fits the Garboard. I took out a couple of screws from the inspection plate and began to slooowly put water in the bracket with the hose. Once the bracket was full and under a very slight pressure, leaks were readily apparent. I marked each with a china marker, drained the bracket, completely removed the access cover and let it dry for a couple of weeks. I then sealed the leak areas with 4000UV, the bracket had been installed with 5200, and it was a bitch to remove to metal at the leak sites. It still gets a teaspoon, or so, of water over a 5 month season, but that's been about all for the 4 years it's been done.
I also 'flush' the bracket with the hose adapter for about an hour at the end of each season ... :wink:
Well, I didn't like the idea of saltwater riding around in my aluminum bracket, so I fabricated a hose with nylon end that fits the Garboard. I took out a couple of screws from the inspection plate and began to slooowly put water in the bracket with the hose. Once the bracket was full and under a very slight pressure, leaks were readily apparent. I marked each with a china marker, drained the bracket, completely removed the access cover and let it dry for a couple of weeks. I then sealed the leak areas with 4000UV, the bracket had been installed with 5200, and it was a bitch to remove to metal at the leak sites. It still gets a teaspoon, or so, of water over a 5 month season, but that's been about all for the 4 years it's been done.
I also 'flush' the bracket with the hose adapter for about an hour at the end of each season ... :wink:
Not trying to hijack the thread but on the same topic, our 89 Grady 190 has low hours and was only used in fresh water. I am doing all the thru-hull fittings, scuppers stainless this spring and changing the thru hull drain tube on the transom. That aluminum engine bracket over the transom always looked like a good water entry point and I want to caulk the seams. People look to be using 3M 4200 or 3M 4000UV ?
So if I am reading correctly, there is a drain for this drive bracket inside the boat in the bilge area I presume? Sorry I am not new to boats, but new to maintaining a boat of this era. Thanks.
So if I am reading correctly, there is a drain for this drive bracket inside the boat in the bilge area I presume? Sorry I am not new to boats, but new to maintaining a boat of this era. Thanks.
Yea after looking at this more carefully, don't think this applies to my boat. Looks like you guys are talking about the drive bracket that extends out from the transom like a jack plate....I am just talking about the aluminum transom cover.
I am just talking about the aluminum transom cover.
No drain for that. Buuut, that area is notorious for letting water in, which may/can eventually cause rot in the transom. I'd inspect the area closely and seal it up well ... :wink:
No drain for that. Buuut, that area is notorious for letting water in, which may/can eventually cause rot in the transom. I'd inspect the area closely and seal it up well ... :wink:
Just unscrewed my Drive plug to check for water (every year, as I did have water once), the backing nut on the inside of the tank is now loose ! I needed that ! I called factory and they said "never heard of anyone recovering nut, you will have to tap and die it." The tank is aluminum, made by Gil (no longer made after 2009). Has anyone done this ? Do you need to use "special Tap & Die to do aluminum ? I assume you do want to use aluminum plug for electrolysis. Thanks
2004 232 Gulf twin 150's
2004 232 Gulf twin 150's
ROBERTH
GreatGrady Captain
I resealed mine this past winter with 4200 at the access plates as the normal silicone was breaking free from the starboard access covers. Since, I have been on several all day fishing trips and just removed the plugs this week and only a few drops came out which I might access as condensation or the foam blocks releasing some moisture.
Seems the 4200 type sealant is a must.
So far, I have not had to seal the threads on the aluminum drain plugs, but if I was keeping boat in the water, I would definately use 4200 on the threads or some other type of thread sealant as it was a nightmare to remove the original plugs when I first got the boat. Seemed the aluminum was corroded and made it really tough to remove them. Using the proper size sockets, I think with 8 sided rather than the 16 sided, it got a better grip on the sides and removed them with some heating and working back and forth, but by time I got them out, they were trash.
It is hard to find replacement 1/2" thread aluminum drain plugs, but I found them on Ebay if I recall from some automotive racing company or something like that.
I tried PVC plugs, but they are just too soft.
Now at least I know I am not adding hundreds of extra pounds of weight in the back from all the water. :mrgreen:
Seems the 4200 type sealant is a must.
So far, I have not had to seal the threads on the aluminum drain plugs, but if I was keeping boat in the water, I would definately use 4200 on the threads or some other type of thread sealant as it was a nightmare to remove the original plugs when I first got the boat. Seemed the aluminum was corroded and made it really tough to remove them. Using the proper size sockets, I think with 8 sided rather than the 16 sided, it got a better grip on the sides and removed them with some heating and working back and forth, but by time I got them out, they were trash.
It is hard to find replacement 1/2" thread aluminum drain plugs, but I found them on Ebay if I recall from some automotive racing company or something like that.
I tried PVC plugs, but they are just too soft.
Now at least I know I am not adding hundreds of extra pounds of weight in the back from all the water. :mrgreen:
Wow…new gw225 owner (2005) with a new Honda 250 off the stern. Was getting really low in the stern after two weeks on the mooring. found the Grady drive FULL of water. Am pulling the boat Monday and replacing the plastic drain. GW dealer says that is the problem 90% of the time. The access plate has 1/4“ bolt holes screws will not work in (It was kind of siliconed on Previously).Thinking of using dry wall anchors to hold the screws (and Silicon).
Down the road am considering filling the Grady drive with spray can closed cell insulation foam…any thoughts?
Down the road am considering filling the Grady drive with spray can closed cell insulation foam…any thoughts?
Just be careful unscrewing the plastic plug on the bottom and put non-petroleum grease on the threads when it goes back on. No wrench handle. Like screwdriver tight. Use a teflon or silicon grease like you would for swimming pool gaskets. If the threads in the holes in the top inspection plate are stripped, go up one size and drill and tap new threads. Use a good neversieze on the threads when putting the screws in. Before putting the inspection plate on though, use your shop-vac to get every last bit of water out. I would not recommend filling the cavity with expanding foam. Someday someone will want to remove that bracket. If they find that you are dead and buried, they will dig you up and beat your body. 
If you want to make sure the bracket cannot fill with water, the normal practice is to either fill it with ping-pong balls or deflate a large round boat fender, stuff it in the bracket and reinflate very gently till the bracket is mostly filled. None of this is necessary though because even if the bracket is completely full of water, it will not sink your boat.
If you want to make sure the bracket cannot fill with water, the normal practice is to either fill it with ping-pong balls or deflate a large round boat fender, stuff it in the bracket and reinflate very gently till the bracket is mostly filled. None of this is necessary though because even if the bracket is completely full of water, it will not sink your boat.
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Right on! But I think for this summer, while the boat is in the water, plastic drywall screw thingees and bathtub silicone will have to hold the screws down. researching carload ping pong balls on eBay…this boat’s getting more and more expensive!
Foam will prevent you from getting to the bottom mounting bolts on your motor. For $3-$5 you can go in just about any thrift shop, and buy yoga exercise balls. Good volume, pretty tough, and conform to shape. That’s what I stuff up into the front and rear of a canoe or kayak.
Silicon is not intended for below water line use.
Your first step should be to check the bracket after some usage to determine how fast or slow it is getting water. If very slow, you may be able to get away with once in a while draining (for the time being)
You should try to find out what is leaking. One way, out of the water, is to fill the bracket with water and then look for leaking water out of it and/or into the bilge.
The source of the leak will determine what needs to be done.
great idea!I have 6 beach balls going in tomorrow, but after they deflate YOGA BALLS!
ROBERTH
GreatGrady Captain
I had an update to this issue I finally resolved the issue with leaking water into the bracket. Maybe I posted on another thread, but for this thread, the solution for me after all the sealing with caulk and still getting water, the culprit was the inspection plates on the top of the bracket. I have 3 of them. 1 is under the swim platform. They were all leaking apparently. I purchased some new one's from West Marine with screw in type lids. I had to do some trimming and drill new holes as some were corroded/stripped out.
That was a couple years ago and I am getting zero water in the bracket now. I don't think the leaks were ever the sealant around the mounting areas, but never hurts to reseal to make sure.
That was a couple years ago and I am getting zero water in the bracket now. I don't think the leaks were ever the sealant around the mounting areas, but never hurts to reseal to make sure.