electric trolling motor for adventure 208

[Peter A]

Yeah I don’t have that skill to make that multi-dimensional part, or the tool, or a shop.

 

[Matman8]

Another option I had considered was placing the batteries at the portapotty location. Since this mod places extra weight up front, I wanted to add the battery weight as far back as possible. The boat takes a second more to plane, but really not that noticable.

 

[Peter A]

The storage bins are a great location. I don’t really use them. I don’t want to lose the porta potti location since my girls use that to pee on cruising days. The well in front of the porta potty would work. Easy install and access and can build a cover over the top but I use that location to drop my bumpers and gear. Cover would protect people and the batteries. Safer location is your choice.

Thanks again for the guidance, if I design from scratch am sure to have more “wish I had done it this way” or “selected that motor” moments, and most shops will try to force fit whatever they have done on a different boat. I am thinking now that I will remove the windlass and reinforce the pulpit to mount up front, fully bow centered.

 

[Captainzim]

I installed a Minn Kota Riptide Terrova 72 inch on my 208. Two lithium 12 volt batteries were installed under the port and starboard bilge area in the cabin. Fishing using spot-lock has been a game changer. Will never go back to anchoring or drifting.

Hi
I just joined. I have a 2017 Adventure 208. Have been looking on web and came across your pictures. Very nice job.
Pictures show what I would need to do.
Question the cutting and addition of the fold over bow rail. Where can these parts be purchased? Or I live in south Florida did you have these made by local person.

 

[seasick]

The storage bins are a great location. I don’t really use them. I don’t want to lose the porta potti location since my girls use that to pee on cruising days. The well in front of the porta potty would work. Easy install and access and can build a cover over the top but I use that location to drop my bumpers and gear. Cover would protect people and the batteries. Safer location is your choice.

Thanks again for the guidance, if I design from scratch am sure to have more “wish I had done it this way” or “selected that motor” moments, and most shops will try to force fit whatever they have done on a different boat. I am thinking now that I will remove the windlass and reinforce the pulpit to mount up front, fully bow centered.

Just note that the 'locker' forward of the porta potti location is used to drain any anchor locker water into the mid and eventually aft bilge. It should be no worse as far as moisture goes than the aft bilge

 

[Mark DV]

Here is my install. I thought about doing a hinge but instead took out the 45degree coupling. I cut approx 1.5 inch off one side of bow rail and have all the clearance I need for trolling motor. I also have enough bow rail length to reattach the 45 degree coupling and bring bow rail back to stock. My battery is mounted all the way forward in cuddy. Right next to anchor access port inside cuddy. The extra weight in bow actually helps me get on plane quicker.

 

[Matman8]

The bimini eye end and hand rail hinge can be purchased from Amazon. The rail eye end jaws were purchased from Defender, but I cannot find them there today. Perhaps they are called something else?
Make sure to select 316 stainless steel. All work was DIY using tools available from amazon or Harbor Freight. The battery tray was the most challenging.

The rail was cut using a thin cutting disc on a grinder. If one miscuts, 316 SS tubing in mill finish can be purchased at Graingers. It needs to be polished to match the existing rails.

If I didn't have a full time job, perhaps I could assemble 208 trolling motor hardware kits for a small profit?

 

[Captainzim]

Thanks

 

[rockfishon]

@Matman , I am planning on getting this installed this winter. Can you provide a couple more pictures of the top of the trolling motor and how you secured it as well as one of the mounting plate? Did you mount this so it could be removable?

 

[Matman]

I don't have any stand alone pictures of the mounting plate. The plate is necessary on the 208 to get the trolling motor shaft at least 1" cleared of the rub rail. Basically 3/8 thick aluminum plate that is through bolted to the deck of the anchor locker (2 bolts). Then mounted the Minn Kota quick release mount to the aluminum baseplate (4 machine screws). Two of those screws straight through the anchor locker. Two other screws will be outboard of the deck over the sloped area of the gunnel. For the screws/nuts going through the deck, use large fender washers inside to spread the load. All fasteners are 316 SS from McMASTER. The aluminum was from online metals.

Yes, my trolling motor is removable.

 

[rockfishon]

Thanks for those additional details. What type of bracket did you use to secure it when stowed on the port side? Do you happen to have the dimensions of the mounting plate that you created?

 

[Matman]

Sorry for the delayed response. I got distracted by work.

Minn Kota MKA-55 Stabilizer.

My boat is wrapped up for the winter, so I cannot measure the exact size of the plate. It's rather simple, in front the plate needs to extend no further than the edge of the rub rail. At the back it needs to be trimmed so the anchor hatch is free to open. The angle is established so the trolling motor head is under the stainless rail, but not over the rub rail (so the head cannot contact anything on the dock). My quick disconnect puck was located to provide 1-1/4" clearance from the deployed tolling motor shaft and the rub rail.