Electrical issue

Sethkins88

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I have a 1999 GW Fisherman 222 and noticed what seems to be an electrical issue.

Today we were preparing to leave the sandbar, started the engine, turned on the electronics and the engine suddenly died. Went to restart it and noticed I had no power to the gauges and no power to the engine. The electronics powered up fine. I checked all the connections from the battery to the engine and all were tight. Still no power to engine or gauges.

I finally got the engine to fire again after swapping around a 10a fuse in the fuse holders (one is for the auto Blige and one is for the memory). As I began trimming the engine down it cut out again. I noticed that 10a fuse in the memory fuse holder blew. I changed it out and it fired up. I shut down all unnecessary electronics and did not use my trim. Got it back home.

Once home, I began digging into the battery box more. I noticed the original 40a breaker box is badly corroded as is the 10a fuse holder for the auto Blige.

I plan on replacing the breaker box, the fuse holders, and all ground and positive cables going from the battery, breaker box and battery selector.

Does this sound like the correct thing to do, anything else to check?
 

SkunkBoat

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Generally, neither of those fuses should effect your motors or all of your electronics.
It could be possible that pulling on the wires moved a loose connection in the battery selector switch.
Is the memory connected to a stereo? or is it just dead wire somewhere?

The OEM Grady red botton breaker is a piece of crap. Replace it with a switchable breaker like a Bussman 185 or MRCB.

You did not mention Batteries and switch positions. You didnt try the other battery?

On a 1999 boat its not a bad idea to remove all the battery related cables and at least inspect them. By doing this you learn how it is put together for the next time....
Bend them in your hand and feel for stiff or crunchy spots. This includes the motor cables.

Some of the long cables can get expensive. if you can replace terminals in a professional manner, you can save some money. Sometimes its just worth it to buy premade cables.
 
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Sethkins88

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Generally, neither of those fuses should effect your motors or all of your electronics.
I could be possible that pulling on the wires moved a loose connection in the battery selector switch.
Is the memory connected to a stereo? or is it just dead wire somewhere?

The OEM Grady red botton breaker is a piece of crap. Replace it with a switchable breaker like a Bussman 185 or MRCB.

You did not mention Batteries and switch positions. You didnt try the other battery?

On a 1999 boat its not a bad idea to remove all the battery related cables and at least inspect them. By doing this you learn how it is put together for the next time....
Bend them in your hand and feel for stiff or crunchy spots. This includes the motor cables.

Some of the long cables can get expensive. if you can replace terminals in a professional manner, you can save some money. Sometimes its just worth it to buy premade cables.
Thanks for the reply

Yes, the memory fuse holder is connected to the stereo. I didn't think that those fuses would have any impact on the engine getting power so maybe it was a coincidence or as you said the shuffling around of wires.

I did try switching the batteries via the selector with no luck. I am interested to see what the selector connections look like as well

Yeah I'm looking at replacing the breaker with the bussman unit.

I plan on using 4 gauge wire for the battery cables. Do you know the type of wire needed to run from the breaker to the battery selector?
 

SkunkBoat

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Thanks for the reply

Yes, the memory fuse holder is connected to the stereo. I didn't think that those fuses would have any impact on the engine getting power so maybe it was a coincidence or as you said the shuffling around of wires.

I did try switching the batteries via the selector with no luck. I am interested to see what the selector connections look like as well

Yeah I'm looking at replacing the breaker with the bussman unit.

I plan on using 4 gauge wire for the battery cables. Do you know the type of wire needed to run from the breaker to the battery selector?
depends on your model. My 265 has 6 awg. Some of the smaller or older models used 10 gauge.
The red button had small terminals with screws. you need to match size of terminal with new breaker that you buy (1/4 or 5/16 or 3/8 or Metric)
 

Sethkins88

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depends on your model. My 265 has 6 awg. Some of the smaller or older models used 10 gauge.
The red button had small terminals with screws. you need to match size of terminal with new breaker that you buy (1/4 or 5/16 or 3/8 or Metric)
Thanks for the information
 

Fishtales

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Just curious. Did you have the lance to the ignition in place the whole time or did you connect before firing? I had one that was sticky at times in the past, just a thought.