Electrical issues

[sshaderiii]

Hi everyone, I’m a proud new owner of a 1998 Adventure 208. 1st Grady ever!
It’s a beautiful boat however I have found a few issues that I need advice on how to get fixed.
The port bow nav light, horn and live well does not work. Does anyone know how to go about pin pointing this problem?

 

[trapper]

The port bow light is probably a bulb as port and starboard are on the same switch. Take off the switch panel first and check the connections to the horn and live well. If good, follow up at their connections in place, (where they connect to the faulty units) The live well pump could be burnt out over time, that could also be the issue with it. At 1998 years on the water. I would check all connections on the boat before heading into the void. Be safe and enjoy!

 

[seasick]

In addition, a bad horn in most cases is a bad horn, followed by bad connections. The horn on that boat only lasts a few years depending on the waters you boat in.
For the time being, get a bottle air horn for about 10 bucks. It will satisfy the regulations for an audible warning device. It is also usually louder than the standard 208 horn.

The live well will be the more complicated problem to fix since it can be an electrical connection or a bad pump connection.
Getting to the pump can be a pain since access to the bilge is limited.
Get yourself a 12 volt test lamp. You can get a cheap one at Harbor Freight or a more expensive one at Home Depot and the like. Learn how to test and troubleshoot dc electrical systems since sooner or later other things will fail. It's a boat after all.
On a different topic; Did you get the white anchor light pole that mounts to the windshield? You nee that light for night time boating.

 

[sshaderiii]

Thank you for sharing your thoughts and advice! I have pulled the light housing and checked the bulb. When I took the bulb out and put back in the light came on for a couple of seconds and then went out never coming back on! If it’s the bulb, were can I get one? It’s a really special looking thing!
As far as the light pole I have one mounted on my roof and it works.
Thanks again for your help!

 

[seasick]

The bulb is available at any marine store and online, You need the number of the bulb. You should carry a spare also. The bulb in the hardtop anchor light may be different

 

[sshaderiii]

The port bow light is probably a bulb as port and starboard are on the same switch. Take off the switch panel first and check the connections to the horn and live well. If good, follow up at their connections in place, (where they connect to the faulty units) The live well pump could be burnt out over time, that could also be the issue with it. At 1998 years on the water. I would check all connections on the boat before heading into the void. Be safe and enjoy!

Thank you Trapper for your advice!

 

[sshaderiii]

The bulb is available at any marine store and online, You need the number of the bulb. You should carry a spare also. The bulb in the hardtop anchor light may be different

Ok great thanks!
I found that it’s not the bulb but a wiring issue! What next?

 

[seasick]

The side nav lights are fed from the same switch so if one works that means the switch and both the 12 volts feed as well as the ground is good at least to the light that works. The other side nav light is teed off of the same wires as the working light. What is not obvious is which light feeds the other but in general the nav light closest to the helm (the starboard light) is fed from the switch and then breiged over to the other light.
If the light doesn't work, it means that there is no 12V, or a bad ground, or a bad bulb, or a bad fixture. You can sort of reach the wires in the cabin by feeling all the way under the gunnels where the wires may be run.
It's hard to say what the next step should be but I would probably remove the fixture that doesn't work and try to pull out the wires until you get to where the light pig tails (wires) are spliced onto the feeds. Those connections may be bad. All of this assumes one lamp works. If not you have to test starting at the switch panel which you will have to carefully remove and gently pull away to get to the back of it. If you don't have any experience tracing circuits to test for voltage or good grounds, it would help to see if a boater friend who has tracked down DC issues can offer their advice and guidance.

Do me a favor first though; If one lamp works, remove the lens on that light and remove the bulb. Now install the bad bulb in the good fixture and the good bulb in the bad fixture. See what happens. If the same side lights up, both bulbs are good. If the bad side now works but the previous side that works, not doesn't, that bulb is bad.
Let us know how things work out.

 

[Hookup1]

The console switch panel has jumpers in series that feed 12VDC to various switches on the panel. Sounds like you have a bad jumper/connection to me.

 

[sshaderiii]

The side nav lights are fed from the same switch so if one works that means the switch and both the 12 volts feed as well as the ground is good at least to the light that works. The other side nav light is teed off of the same wires as the working light. What is not obvious is which light feeds the other but in general the nav light closest to the helm (the starboard light) is fed from the switch and then breiged over to the other light.
If the light doesn't work, it means that there is no 12V, or a bad ground, or a bad bulb, or a bad fixture. You can sort of reach the wires in the cabin by feeling all the way under the gunnels where the wires may be run.
It's hard to say what the next step should be but I would probably remove the fixture that doesn't work and try to pull out the wires until you get to where the light pig tails (wires) are spliced onto the feeds. Those connections may be bad. All of this assumes one lamp works. If not you have to test starting at the switch panel which you will have to carefully remove and gently pull away to get to the back of it. If you don't have any experience tracing circuits to test for voltage or good grounds, it would help to see if a boater friend who has tracked down DC issues can offer their advice and guidance.

Do me a favor first though; If one lamp works, remove the lens on that light and remove the bulb. Now install the bad bulb in the good fixture and the good bulb in the bad fixture. See what happens. If the same side lights up, both bulbs are good. If the bad side now works but the previous side that works, not doesn't, that bulb is bad.
Let us know how things work out.

It not the bulb! I will be working on it. I’ll keep you posted on how it goes. Thank you for your help!

 

[sshaderiii]

The console switch panel has jumpers in series that feed 12VDC to various switches on the panel. Sounds like you have a bad jumper/connection to me.

View attachment 35353 View attachment 35354

I will check it out . Thank you!

 

[Hookup1]

Get a voltmeter out, pull the switch panel and check that the circuit breakers on the affected functions have 12VDC. When multiple things don't work look for what they have in common - that's the switch panel. It's possible the previous owner hacked something here or it's just a bad connection.

No coincidence that 3 systems are not working. Could have each gone bad at different time and not repaired. My advice on replacing pump and horn - replace with exact same model/manufacturer to make it an easy swap (same mounting, hoses, etc.

 

[sshaderiii]

Get a voltmeter out, pull the switch panel and check that the circuit breakers on the affected functions have 12VDC. When multiple things don't work look for what they have in common - that's the switch panel. It's possible the previous owner hacked something here or it's just a bad connection.

No coincidence that 3 systems are not working. Could have each gone bad at different time and not repaired. My advice on replacing pump and horn - replace with exact same model/manufacturer to make it an easy swap (same mounting, hoses, etc.

Get a voltmeter out, pull the switch panel and check that the circuit breakers on the affected functions have 12VDC. When multiple things don't work look for what they have in common - that's the switch panel. It's possible the previous owner hacked something here or it's just a bad connection.

No coincidence that 3 systems are not working. Could have each gone bad at different time and not repaired. My advice on replacing pump and horn - replace with exact same model/manufacturer to make it an easy swap (same mounting, hoses, etc.

Thanks for the advice Hookup 1!
Were can I find original Grady parts for my 1998 Adventure?

 

[seasick]

Thanks for the advice Hookup 1!
Were can I find original Grady parts for my 1998 Adventure?

Some parts like stainless fittings, hinged and latches may be available since those types of parts were used in several model years. Fir some parts, the same parts were used for decades
Plastic and fiberglass parts like lids, deck panels trim pieces are just about impossible to find. Same goes for cushions and to an extent canvas. All of those items can be fabricated but it can be costly,
There are salvage yards they stockpile boats parts but the ones I know of are in the south. You can look on the internet for grady parts but don't expect bargain basement prices.
Often after major events like the recent hurricanes, some parts will trickle through the used parts market

Also keep in mind that having an original part lock a locker lid even in terrible condition can make it easier to fabricate a replacement.

 

[seasick]

Regarding electrical troubleshooting, remember that ground conductors are just as important as 12V feeds. You could have 12v at a pump for example that doesn't run but its problem is a bad/corroded ground connection

 

[Hookup1]

GW buys a lot of OEM parts. Look for part numbers, etc on the pump. Depending on which horn should be available online or Amazon. If you have something specific you can’t find take a photo and post it here. The members are helpful with that stuff.

 

[Fishtales]

I'd take the time to swap all lights to led but first check the socket conditions. Hopefully just bulb swaps. Can get all on the net. As stated, first use a DVM and measure the voltage at each point. If not present, first check fuses and the fuse box - they are known to be problematic over time. Check you'll likely have to trace some wires. Clean connections and ensure voltage there. For most items if you can't trace a wire break or intermittent, you'll have to run new wire. Can be done, just time consuming and you'll need to figure out how to run it. If loose you can use you old wire to pull it through, likely not going to find it that easy though.

 

[seasick]

If the existing lenses are colored and the bulbs are white, it is not advisable to install LED replacement bulbs. The narrow spectrum of the LED bulb can get attenuated (blocked) by the colored lens.

 

[Hookup1]

I agree with Seasick on use of LED's with colored lenses. The LED's are very directional too. I use the clear incandescent bulbs. A little dielectric grease on the connection. These light housing are not dry and the bulb and contacts take a beating. Have a spare handy and check them twice a year.

Also don't be so quick to abandon an old wire and run a new one. Try to save it if at all possible. Nothing worse than working on wiring the previous owner hacked up and then decided to run new wires. It's never documented and a nightmare when you go back later to fix something.

On older boats the wires turn black from corrosion and it's hard to get a good connection. I use a Dremel tool and wire brush to clean the stranded ends up. I also lightly tin them and shrink wrap to keep the connection rigid. Replaced my complete switch panel this way and repaired the device ends when needed the same way.



Fortunately the only wiring on my boat that was hacked up was in the upper and lower electronics boxes. I took it all out and rewired it. There was a fuse block in the upper one and I installed one in the lower one. The only other wire I found hacked was on the fuel tank sending unit. I repaired it with a 2-pin trailer plug. Stereo harness cut off original radio and re-used several times now. Plugs into original boat harness.

 

[seasick]

I like the Dremel trick!