Engine and Dash modification, Grady 25 sailfish

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1990 Grady 25 sailfish with 2003 F225 twin Yamaha, 9.9 Yamaha Kicker and dash modified to fit the new Electronics The dash is still being upgraded but this image will give the basic idea. New tilt Steering helm

 

[Jakkle5]

looks nice. Whats the clear tube at the wheel?

 

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Latest dash image, New GPS coming this week

I kinda figured someone would ask, when I shot the pics i was priming the dual hydraulic steering helms. Here is the updated image, [/img]

 

[BobP]

Looks good!

You stole my idea for where to locate a Garmin 4212 ! (just kidding).

Then I was thinking it would be too low there though.

Doesn't matter much, the 4212 is now being pumped into the gas tanks, instead !

 

[BobP]

Do you have Grady Drive on that boat? if so, take a photo showing the space between both motors when they are in the run trim position, if you don't mind.

 

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Custum bracket, check it out in the water

Custum made floatation pod to ofset the Twin F225 Fours and 9.9 kicker

 

[sraab928]

Looks great - any performance numbers with the 225's yet?

 

[BobP]

So you have a new bracket, I was wondering, since Yamaha dimensional specs (greater width dimensions) show motors overlapping on 26 in. centerlines, as I recall when I looked at it several years ago.

Nice setup.

 

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Engine setup, Performance #'s

I think Yamaha recomends 27 inch centres as a min. I have it set up at 29 inches. Bcause the bracket was custum we had room to go 29. If you use 27 inches then I think the engines when tilted up and turned will hit each other. As for the performance, getting on a step is no problem. The stock 21p prop pushes 4400 rpm at 35mph 19gph to 21 gph depending engine trip and trim tabs. If I go 4000rpm I get 29-30mph at 16-17gph.
I can get 50 + mph out of it if I work it a bit. I know that some nice new SS performance props would help alot.

 

[BobP]

That's the first time I saw a bracket to match the running hull line. It also looks wider than the Grady Drive too.

Can you share who designed and built the bracket? I presume it's aluminum alloy since I see the zinc anode.

And did the installer glass in any additional transom knee braces to the inside of the transom to hull joint, or extend the main stringers to the transom?

Your fuel consumption is similar to my 200 HPDIs.

 

[BobP]

The F (as in "fat") motor is 25 inches wide, so 27 minimum makes sense - leaves 2 inches between motors while straight on. I 'd like to see at least three inches in there, so the 29 inch new standard works. The actual motor drawing is not in the owners manual as I thought, but the maintenance manual instead. The owners manual specs indicate 25 inches wide.

25 inches wide would never work on a traditional 26 inch centerline drillings, would hit on turns.

My HPDIs are 21.8 inches wide, have plenty of room on 26 inch centerlines with more than 4 inches in between.

 

[Grog]

4000 RPM seems kinda high for 21P props running 30 MPH. For me 3400 is around 29 MPH and I'm running 19's.

 

[plymouthgrady]

I noticed the deadrise runs the length of the bracket but on my original Grady bracket, it does not. Does anyone know why or how it effects performance?

 

[gw204]

Probable results in a slighly increased fuel burn due the additional drag, but also makes the ride a bit better because of the extended running surface. It's just like the extension of the hull bottom on the current models.

 

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Bracket deadrise

This is my second boat that has this type of modification done the first had a inboard converted to out board with this bracket.. Because of the extra weight of the 4 stroke engines from the factory 2 strokes the bracket actually floats part of the weight of the engines and adds extra performance as the hull is actaully extended to the egines. Now keep in mind this mod is not just slapped on and just works. The size of the "pod" has to calculated. To much flotation and the boat will nose dive and be bow heavy. To little and the boat is tail heavey as though the engines were put on the factory pod. When done right it perfomes better than with the fatory 2 strokes.

 

[Grog]

I just looked closely, where is your hull's drain plug?

 

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Plug

No plug in the hull but the water tight pod has one. When they make the pod they really like the keep the hull separate from the pod. If the pod leaks then yoou can still run the boat and not sink. They put and water tight access port on the top and you can pump it out if you have to. If you do get water in the hull you ahve to just use your bilge pump. Of course you have to live with the fact that you allways have some water in your bilge. If you want you can have them build a through hull fitting to the hull and then put a hose inside the to the pod and have 2 drains. I never botherd.