Engine flush quick connect

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My quick connects are really tight and seem damaged. Does anyone know who makes them and whether the female end (on the boat) can be purchased by itself?
 

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Yeah, mine don't work either after only one year.
 

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Honestly, the quick connect was a neat trick, but there is a lot more flow just connecting straight to the engine the old way. I don't even mind that the quick connect doesn't work any more.
 
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fitzman

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Lubricating the o-ring seals with a silicone grease/lubricant a couple times a year helps to make the QC connections easier. They typically come from the factory with the seals lubricated. Over time the salt water washes away the factory applied lubricant. Colder Products Company (CPC) sells some of the boat manufacturers and aftermarket suppliers Quick Connects for the motor flushes. The product series most often used for these applications is the black HFC57GHT series. Their website has description s and catalog part #s. https://www.cpcworldwide.com/
 

Punchline Cap

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Mine is under the starboard side gunnel and is hard to access. I find it easier to just flush it right at the engine. Also the grommet on the connection to the engine was just cut out for the additional water line in a very unprofessional way. After coming apart many times I spent over an hour trimming a new grommet to fit, as Yamaha has no factory part for the additional water line.
 
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I ended up finding a new one on eBay and buying it there. It is Grady White part number 22-473 for my boat.
 

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I ended up finding a new one on eBay and buying it there. It is Grady White part number 22-473 for my boat.
Was it the part you screw on the hose or the input on the boat that was bad?
 
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On mine it was the quick connect. The hose wouldn't pop in without forcing it.
 

Beyond A Wake

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I did get them from CPC and they work BUT as was said it is much more efficient to connect at motor, better flow. When I get back in I have boat in wash rack. Spray the hull first one side then the other, then I connect hose to motor #1. Dry one side with shammy , walk back and move hose to motor #2, dry other side and walk to move hose to motor #3. I make sure water is cool after flush so a proper flush time is reached. There are some who use muffs and start engine but I don't like to do that and I certainly do not start when connected to hose on top.
If I need to wash down topside/inside of boat then I try to use two hoses.
So yes CPC works but is "saving" water.
 
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I did get them from CPC and they work BUT as was said it is much more efficient to connect at motor, better flow. When I get back in I have boat in wash rack. Spray the hull first one side then the other, then I connect hose to motor #1. Dry one side with shammy , walk back and move hose to motor #2, dry other side and walk to move hose to motor #3. I make sure water is cool after flush so a proper flush time is reached. There are some who use muffs and start engine but I don't like to do that and I certainly do not start when connected to hose on top.
If I need to wash down topside/inside of boat then I try to use two hoses.
So yes CPC works but is "saving" water.
Your way is not a bad way to do it at all. It does seem like the quick connects at the flush port severely limit the water flow. I'll try flushing at the motor next time and compare the results.
 

Peter A

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Luckily I have access to two hoses and great pressure so I shut down the engine and start flushing while I clean everything else up. Nice long flush time.
 

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Your way is not a bad way to do it at all. It does seem like the quick connects at the flush port severely limit the water flow. I'll try flushing at the motor next time and compare the results.
I get a much stronger stream going straight into the engine instead of the quick connect.
 

CMD255

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I just replaced the female connector on my 2021 GW Freedom 255 with twin 150s. Order from United States plastics corp. their item # 061626. 3/8” HFC57 polys pnl mnt cplng body. Perfect match. They are about $ 32 each plus $6 ship and tax
 

Peter A

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Mine also cracked and leaks badly when the male end is inserted and under pressure. The position on the Grady 208 transom well, you have to be careful that the hose is not exerting side pressure on the joint. I’ll fix it (because I don’t like broken things) and never use it again because…

Don’t I feel stupid. On the 208 with an old style motor well, the engine flush port is RIGHT IN FRONT OF MY FACE when the engine is tilted forward and is easy to flush directly. Screw/unscrew, have a few extra hose rubbers in my spares drawer, flush with high volume immediately on shut down. Suspect the follow on 215/218 is the same situation.