engine lift

[DennisG01]

I was thinking and have an idea. If you have one of those portable jump starts batteries, you could attach it to the terminals that go to the trim pump. The pump should run but make sure the boats battery switches are off.

Ain't nothing wrong with that. Doc, just be aware that when you jump something like this you're going to get a spark. It won't hurt you - just mentioning it so you don't get freaked out. The bigger the draw (motor), the bigger spark. I'd probably clamp the positive jump pack lead onto a larger screwdriver and use that touch the proper terminal (quickly and firmly).

Can't hurt to turn off the battery switch, but not "necessary", either. Especially since you're not even connected to the boat's wiring (motor side of relay).

 

[georgemjr]

Does the trim work from the engine mounted trim switch?

easiest thing to do is what seasick has mentioned, twice. disconnect the trim motor wires and connect to a battery pack (or battery). Motor should run. If it doesn't motor is bad and you can then go through all of the other diagnostics. I have replaced motors as well as binnacle and engine mounted trim switches, no relays yet.

 

[dogdoc]

thanks to all, had to leave for up north before full diagnosis made. will dig deeper next visit

 

[dogdoc]

additionally after looking at parts diagrams what i thought was the relay is nothing more than a fuse block with those two huge fuses, I felt a resounding click when actuating the lift switch which must have just been referred via the heavy 12 volt wire from the relay, ignorance is bliss i guess. The good part is that I had the covers off so much I finally glued the rubber seals back on solid and they latch very nicely now. When I next return to Fla i will attack the problem as suggested above.

 

[seasick]

Yes that is the fuse block. The relay is a separate part. It will have two terminal nuts colored as mentioned.

 

[dogdoc]

Had someone else do some diagnostics while i am away and he thinks it is the motor. The job does seem daunting under ideal circumstances and near impossible with the boat on a lift. I dont own a trailer, but did find a yard nearby that will haul out, store and return for about 600-700 for a week on blocks. They also allow individuals to do their own work. I do have a 14 ft skiff that I could use as a work platform but still think it would be near impossible on the lift. Wondering what others have done because I have not done this before. Additionally if I do dry dock, what else would be recommended to perform at that time?
thanks

 

[seasick]

Do not work on the lift over the water if you don't have to. It is easy to loose parts r tools. In addition should you need to manually lower or lift the motor, that will be quite difficult and possibly dangerous on a lift.
600 bucks for a haul, block and launch seems a bit high to me. Perhaps you can get a quote for a yard to do everything, haul, replace motor and launch.

If you decide to try the lift, tie off a tarp under the motor to act as a catch for falling parts. It's better than nothing

 

[DennisG01]

Don't remove it while in the water. It can be done, but you'll inevitably get water into the system. Plus, you'll spill some ATF into the water... plus you'll drop a tool... and you might even drop/lose some parts and/or the actual motor. But it's an easy removal - a couple of wires and three bolts.

Edit: Oh... you asked about "what else should be done". Well, that's up to you. If everything is working well and there's no leaks, then I would say don't worry about it. On the other hand, if it's been a long time since the trim and tilt seals were replaced, you may want to have that done along with a fluid flush, simply as preventative maintenance while you'll already paying for a haul out. Why not a "short haul"? Parts ready to go, this should only take a few hours.

 

[Paul_A]

Not to sound critical but whenever I have had someone tell me they "think" it's this part or that I know I may as well just hand them a signed blank check.

It sounds like a ground to me. Trim motors are very durable in my experience but I have had grounds get corroded from just sitting. I would check every ground and I would make sure the motor is getting juice when the switch is activated.

if you are in fact getting power to the motor be sure to try giving the motor a rap with a hammer handle while the switch is on. Stranger things have happened.