I checked and There is only one set of White & Black on mine also. That makes sense.
I am very confused by your picture. the two black batteries appear to be in parallel and Both motors are going there.
You might want to check the NMEA2k connections with the N2k Power Isolator. The gauges need N2k power separated from the rest of your N2k network because they have to power from the Key.
So, in the OEM Grady configuration...Yes, the 2 black batteries are in parallel.
Looking at the engine factory leads again, it appears they are long enough to reach the switches.
I looked at the GW wiring diagram. It would be easy enough to run the positive lead to the battery switches.
I think get what you are saying about the network power. I would think the gages would only get power from the key. Wouldn't the rest of the network have to get power elsewhere?
I'm fairly certain that's how the f150's were set up. They were definitely not set up like they are now.So, in the OEM Grady configuration...
Your two black batteries are supposed to be your STBD Start and your House battery and the blue die hard is supposed to be your Port start battery.
Stbd motor crank wire and wire to House circuit breaker on the Stbd switch FEED
Port motor crank lead on the Port switch FEED
STBD Battery bank on the "1"position, Port Battery on the "2" position. There should be a jumper from 1 to 1 and 2 to 2 of the switches.
idk if you have changed things.
This picture gives me OCD... non-waterproof white connector plug with exposed pins... a cable inside a black woven sheath that looks to be about 10 feet too long so it was just folded back and forth and zip tied in a bundle... positive and negative battery cables routed from the middle black battery, over the top of the DieHard battery and around back where it came from... and everything else is just a tangled mess... looks like the backside of my television... Cable management is not the strong suit of whoever wired this.I was wrong. The fuel pumps are turning on with the ignition key and the batteries off. The power cables are connected directly to each battery.
View attachment 29026
I'm guessing the woven harness is the engine harness, as my new Zukes that were put on have an excess of harness like that as well. Kinda wondered what to do with all that extra wiring without cutting the wiring down and adding new connectors.This picture gives me OCD... non-waterproof white connector plug with exposed pins... a cable inside a black woven sheath that looks to be about 10 feet too long so it was just folded back and forth and zip tied in a bundle... positive and negative battery cables routed from the middle black battery, over the top of the DieHard battery and around back where it came from... and everything else is just a tangled mess... looks like the backside of my television... Cable management is not the strong suit of whoever wired this.
It isn't much worse than the factory wiring, but it could use a little work. Since it looks like a need to reroute a few things I'll throw some OCD at it for you.This picture gives me OCD... non-waterproof white connector plug with exposed pins... a cable inside a black woven sheath that looks to be about 10 feet too long so it was just folded back and forth and zip tied in a bundle... positive and negative battery cables routed from the middle black battery, over the top of the DieHard battery and around back where it came from... and everything else is just a tangled mess... looks like the backside of my television... Cable management is not the strong suit of whoever wired this.
Haha. Thanks. In all seriousness though, that white connector should have a rubber boot or at least some electrical tape wrapped around the back side of it and be oriented horizontally so water can't use gravity to drip down the wires and into the connector. The other big issue would take a long time to become a serious issue, but the negative battery cable from the middle battery being routed over the top of the positive terminal of the DieHard battery will eventually rub its way into a short. The rest of the stuff is just cosmetic.It isn't much worse than the factory wiring, but it could use a little work. Since it looks like a need to reroute a few things I'll throw some OCD at it for you.
Don't even think of cutting that engine harness. Loop it as neatly as you can in a resonably protected fashion.I'm guessing the woven harness is the engine harness, as my new Zukes that were put on have an excess of harness like that as well. Kinda wondered what to do with all that extra wiring without cutting the wiring down and adding new connectors.
Agree it isn't the cleanest installation.
Oh, i had no intentions of cutting it down. Ive got it bundled up pretty clean right now.Don't even think of cutting that engine harness. Loop it as neatly as you can in a resonably protected fashion.
The Suzuki white plug is not as bad as you might think. There is grey silicone sealing the wires into the back of the plugs. They are quite professional.
They are much better than the OEM Grady molex plugs thruoghout the boat.
That's good to know. It looks scarier than it is.Don't even think of cutting that engine harness. Loop it as neatly as you can in a resonably protected fashion.
The Suzuki white plug is not as bad as you might think. There is grey silicone sealing the wires into the back of the plugs. They are quite professional.
They are much better than the OEM Grady molex plugs thruoghout the boat.
Would I still be able to set the engines up like the f150's were, or would I need to buy the parts you mentioned?I don't see the "Isolator lead" or Aux charging cables in any of your pix. You don't have them. You would have had to order them with the motors.