Explorer 24 looking live we’ll drain part

[Rmayki]

Hi I’m having a hard time looking for the drain the top part it’s flat as you can see In the picture. Can anyone point me in the right direction to buy it . Thank you !

 

[DennisG01]

Try: Flush Mount or Concave head. Take a look at TH Marine's website - they have lot's of this stuff. Your local dealer should be an easy source, though, if needed.

 

[chrisk]

Hi I’m having a hard time looking for the drain the top part it’s flat as you can see In the picture. Can anyone point me in the right direction to buy it . Thank you !

I have the same model and the concave drains are near impossible to find. The only ones I have found have different hose sizes. I ended up using the "mushroom" top drains and sponging out the excess.

 

[SkunkBoat]

You can use a dremel tool with coarse sanding drum on these to taper the edge back to the thread. You need to find the right diameter/thread to go into the elbow on your hose.
Cut off the barb.

 

[Sparkdog118]

There are some sink drains out there that match what you are lookin for. I replaced my well drains and deck drains with sink drains. I used metal ones.

 

[Sparkdog118]

Chg (Component Hardware Group) E16-4056-Lw Sink Drain 1-1/2" Nps 3" Flange Nickel-Plated Brass For Chg 561219 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F1IO6DI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zmpMEbCG4XQ9C

 

[Sparkdog118]

Check the diameter since some gradys have a slightly smaller recess. I shaved mine down just a little and it was perfect. Bedded it with 5200 and smoothed it out with my finger with rubbing alcohol.

 

[DennisG01]

Check the diameter since some gradys have a slightly smaller recess. I shaved mine down just a little and it was perfect. Bedded it with 5200 and smoothed it out with my finger with rubbing alcohol.

One tip on that - skip the 5200 part. 5200 is like super glue. This connection is a mechanical connection and only needs a sealant. Using 5200 is extreme overkill (and pricey) and there is zero benefit to using it - in fact, should the time come to remove that fitting, it will make an already awkward process be EXTREMELY hard. And, there is a good chance that the gelcoat/fiberglass around the drain opening could get damaged to the point where the area has to be rebuilt.

There are actually VERY few uses for 5200 around a boat.

 

[Sparkdog118]

I used 5200 and a stainless fitting because I never plan to remove the fitting from the boat. The 90 deg elbow screws on and off of the bottom of the fitting if I ever want to change the hose to the scupper. I screw the elbow on with white silicone so it will seal and also be able to be removed in the future.

 

[DennisG01]

I used 5200 and a stainless fitting because I never plan to remove the fitting from the boat. The 90 deg elbow screws on and off of the bottom of the fitting if I ever want to change the hose to the scupper. I screw the elbow on with white silicone so it will seal and also be able to be removed in the future.

I hear what you're saying about wanting it to last, but 5200 isn't going to make it last longer. It's a PHYSICAL connection. Only a simple sealant is needed here. All 5200 will do is cause headaches down the road. If you want to step your game up, this would be a perfect case for butyl rubber. Even that is overkill - plain 'ol sealant is plenty for this job.

You don't plan on removing it... what about the next owner? You don't want to be THAT "previous owner"! Or, what if there turns out to be a defect in the fitting and it breaks - like a bad casting? 5200 is a great product, no doubt - but really does have limited uses.

 

[Sparkdog118]

True. Got me curious. Tell me more about butyl rubber. It is something I’ve never used. Can it be under the waterline? 5200 can make a fixture permanent if you use a ton. I remember back in 2005 when I was a marine max tech I had to take a factory installed 6 ft platform off a brand new sea ray 34 that was put on with a ton of 5200. It touched the boat in 6 places. Had 4 inches mounting surface each n when i got the bolts out, it took 1.5 hours to razor it off. I use it lightly when I do apply.

 

[DennisG01]

If BRT can be used below the waterline, I'm not aware of it being approved for that. I think that's the wrong application for it. Under the waterline, I typically use Life Caulk (which can actually be applied underwater!). LC is similar to 4200 in strength, but is also UV stable (not that that part is a big deal for below the WL). Of course, there are other good products besides the Boat Life stuff - but about 15 years ago I started using either LifeCaulk or LifeSeal for everything - just makes it easy.

But as far as uses for BRT... the stuff really is the top of the line when it comes to bedding. It will adhere to just about anything but is primarily a sealant - not at glue. It never hardens up and 30 years later you can easily remove it... not that you'd have to - it will last longer. For example... under a cleat, under screw heads/around the threads, deck drains - basically anywhere you are bedding (clamping) something.

 

[Sparkdog118]

Awesome. Thanks for all the useful information. I will definitely check out the life caulk. How do you smooth it out when you apply. I usually spray soap n water on my finger and the bead for silicone products and rubbing alcohol for 5200. I learned that at sea ray school 15 years ago. Makes it come out like factory installation.